Indicator units...
Discussion
For the 4th time - it happens about every 6 months - I need to replace my indicator flash unit.
The symptom goes the same each time: flash becomes irregular, then slower, then finally stops. Left/Right turning just puts the indicator on and leaves it there (so clever up-down of the stalk!! is needed for indication)...
I can't trace any voltage problem, perhaps though it is the wiring?
I'm using indicator flash unit of type shown below (it is in the top-left of the big picture)...
Is this the same other folk are using?
The symptom goes the same each time: flash becomes irregular, then slower, then finally stops. Left/Right turning just puts the indicator on and leaves it there (so clever up-down of the stalk!! is needed for indication)...
I can't trace any voltage problem, perhaps though it is the wiring?
I'm using indicator flash unit of type shown below (it is in the top-left of the big picture)...
Is this the same other folk are using?
Cheers Cliff - but don't go out of your way for me, it is a right pain in the arse getting to that under dash area...
Writing that has just given me a clever idea anyway: I'll extend the indicator wiring *outside* that under-dash area so I can get at that unit quickly if (i.e. when!) it needs doing again...
Writing that has just given me a clever idea anyway: I'll extend the indicator wiring *outside* that under-dash area so I can get at that unit quickly if (i.e. when!) it needs doing again...
Disclaimer first - I have no knowledge of C4 wiring. However I'm reasonably good at electrical stuff so here's some guesswork, based on your report of multiple failures and your pic which shows a single 2-terminal flasher unit.
1. Your car presumably has some sort of Euro light conversion (unless you have USA standard red rear indicators) so someone must have done a conversion. There's usually more to it than just changing the lamp to an orange lens
2. The flasher unit in your pic is marked for a max of 47 watts (2 x 21 watt lamps plus a 5 watt dash tell-tale).
3. Do you have some sort of Euro side repeaters added on as well?
4. You probably have a Current problem rather than a Voltage problem and are frying the internals of the flasher unit.
5. Do you use hazard flasher lamps (i.e. all indicators together)? Does your car have a separate hazard flasher unit?
In terms of looking for a fix I suggest you begin by checking how many watts of lamps the flasher unit is trying to run at one time. If it's above the rating then try to find a way to cut it back. If it's not above the rating then suspect a dodgy wiring job by whoever did the Euro conversion which could be causing excess current drain through e.g. the brake light filaments when the indicators are used. One way or another it should be possible to track down the problem using a decent multimeter and to fix it using the basics of corrected wiring and, if necessary, insertion of a couple of large diodes in the circuits to make sure current is only flowing in the directions you want.
Good luck.
1. Your car presumably has some sort of Euro light conversion (unless you have USA standard red rear indicators) so someone must have done a conversion. There's usually more to it than just changing the lamp to an orange lens
2. The flasher unit in your pic is marked for a max of 47 watts (2 x 21 watt lamps plus a 5 watt dash tell-tale).
3. Do you have some sort of Euro side repeaters added on as well?
4. You probably have a Current problem rather than a Voltage problem and are frying the internals of the flasher unit.
5. Do you use hazard flasher lamps (i.e. all indicators together)? Does your car have a separate hazard flasher unit?
In terms of looking for a fix I suggest you begin by checking how many watts of lamps the flasher unit is trying to run at one time. If it's above the rating then try to find a way to cut it back. If it's not above the rating then suspect a dodgy wiring job by whoever did the Euro conversion which could be causing excess current drain through e.g. the brake light filaments when the indicators are used. One way or another it should be possible to track down the problem using a decent multimeter and to fix it using the basics of corrected wiring and, if necessary, insertion of a couple of large diodes in the circuits to make sure current is only flowing in the directions you want.
Good luck.
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