Dimmer Switch?
Discussion
Cheers, and a Happy New Year to all. J C. That spaghetti optic fibre setup is original TR7, along with the switches. Amazing but true. (could be Jag as well....!!)
The central bit has a bulb in it. On my 280, it was behind/underneath the radio - i.e. behind lower panel.
For a more modern setup, there was a thread here about using 3mm LEDs in the switch 'holes' where the fibre optic goes.
LEDs don't dim very well though.....it's a bit complex to organise dimming LEDs.
The central bit has a bulb in it. On my 280, it was behind/underneath the radio - i.e. behind lower panel.
For a more modern setup, there was a thread here about using 3mm LEDs in the switch 'holes' where the fibre optic goes.
LEDs don't dim very well though.....it's a bit complex to organise dimming LEDs.
Thanks all. It looked like an after market mod. You're right though the light source is a bit feeble. Still more important things to do. Yesterday spent swearing at fitting the rubber boot around the clutch arm, even considered taking the exhaust off, again at one stage.
As for the boot lock, 3 x manufacture catches, numerous photos of the inside with the boot closed. One now does actually engage with the lock.
The adjustment is so critical to achieve this plus hours of wondering what's going on. Apparently I've just been relieved of "Santa" and turkey stuffing duty so will slide away into "Wesley's" workshop before anyone notices.
Cheers All. John C.
As for the boot lock, 3 x manufacture catches, numerous photos of the inside with the boot closed. One now does actually engage with the lock. The adjustment is so critical to achieve this plus hours of wondering what's going on. Apparently I've just been relieved of "Santa" and turkey stuffing duty so will slide away into "Wesley's" workshop before anyone notices. Cheers All. John C. John042 said:
Easy Andy,
you're. having a laugh! A dam good swearing. helped! I'm still not happy with the boot shut line though. It does shut now but one side is above the body line. More swearing should help. Cheers John C.
John...Sometimes the fibreglass around the boot hinge gets disturbed and the boot will never shut properly...Although most are not a good fit anyway..Mine rubs on one side and if i try to adjust it by undoing the bolts that hold the hinge to the body or the boot it still rubs after a while...Delilah's used to sit up higher on the N/S and i used to use a worn strut on that side and a new one on other..That way the good one pushes that end of the boot up and the other down...Although that was still never right but slightly better....If you are looking for even shut lines on a Wedge then you might as well go looking for the holy grail...You might just find it.... you're. having a laugh! A dam good swearing. helped! I'm still not happy with the boot shut line though. It does shut now but one side is above the body line. More swearing should help. Cheers John C.
You might also need a new boot rubber.....
Thanks Andy, perhaps I'm being a little bit "nit picking" expecting a perfect shut line on the boot.
Off the subject a little and perhaps should be a new post, engine starting. Should I expect to see a voltage when the ignition is on at the plugs to the cold start injector and the warm up regulator, or are these only powered when cranking? "Wesley's engine starts OK but any throttle movement will cause it to stall until it's been running for a few minutes. These units are controlled by the thermo time switch according to the bible? The engine will tickover quite happily but any throttle increase will cause it to hesitate as if it needs more "choke" Any advice on poor engine response on starting would be greatly appreciate. Thanks John C.
Off the subject a little and perhaps should be a new post, engine starting. Should I expect to see a voltage when the ignition is on at the plugs to the cold start injector and the warm up regulator, or are these only powered when cranking? "Wesley's engine starts OK but any throttle movement will cause it to stall until it's been running for a few minutes. These units are controlled by the thermo time switch according to the bible? The engine will tickover quite happily but any throttle increase will cause it to hesitate as if it needs more "choke" Any advice on poor engine response on starting would be greatly appreciate. Thanks John C. Tech Info -
Ignition power should be there for the warm-up regulator (=choke) and the air valve (= higher idle when cold). They are both electrically heated as well as via engine block.
The cold start injector should only have power when cranking, it's powered from starter motor on one wire, and via the temperature switch (by air valve) on the other wire.
Some wiring diagrams show that the ignition power is supplied via the pump relay, which means they would be powered only when engine running, but my 2.8 isn't wired that way, power comes from the ignition slave relay (key on = power on).
I've had issues in the past with warm-up regulator, when the contacts in the plug get grungy - I use WD40 and check they are clean, and also on the regulator itself. (A needle file is useful)
It could be regulator is not working and you have set mixture so that it's right when engine hot, but then it's too weak when cold ?? Just an idea.
I've got my timing set at about 10 degrees for unleaded 95, and vac advance disconnected, otherwise engine tends to buck at light throttle.
Ignition power should be there for the warm-up regulator (=choke) and the air valve (= higher idle when cold). They are both electrically heated as well as via engine block.
The cold start injector should only have power when cranking, it's powered from starter motor on one wire, and via the temperature switch (by air valve) on the other wire.
Some wiring diagrams show that the ignition power is supplied via the pump relay, which means they would be powered only when engine running, but my 2.8 isn't wired that way, power comes from the ignition slave relay (key on = power on).
I've had issues in the past with warm-up regulator, when the contacts in the plug get grungy - I use WD40 and check they are clean, and also on the regulator itself. (A needle file is useful)
It could be regulator is not working and you have set mixture so that it's right when engine hot, but then it's too weak when cold ?? Just an idea.
I've got my timing set at about 10 degrees for unleaded 95, and vac advance disconnected, otherwise engine tends to buck at light throttle.
Shut lines.....
Mine has two gaskets under one of the boot hinges, and only one on the other. You can make extra packers out of a cardboard cereal packet (or similar). The bonnet on mine is higher on one side than the other, and no matter what I've tried, it's still there. It seems to have warped slightly ? That's my guess anyway. I could resort to stick on rubber feet I guess.
You can get shut lines 'sort of' OK, but in the end, it probably never will line up perfectly. Same applies for the panel/door gaps. TVR's moulding quality wasn't all that fantastic for shape, but compared to other GRP bodies, it seems to be laid up well, with not many cracks appearing.
Mine has two gaskets under one of the boot hinges, and only one on the other. You can make extra packers out of a cardboard cereal packet (or similar). The bonnet on mine is higher on one side than the other, and no matter what I've tried, it's still there. It seems to have warped slightly ? That's my guess anyway. I could resort to stick on rubber feet I guess.
You can get shut lines 'sort of' OK, but in the end, it probably never will line up perfectly. Same applies for the panel/door gaps. TVR's moulding quality wasn't all that fantastic for shape, but compared to other GRP bodies, it seems to be laid up well, with not many cracks appearing.
...Colin your door is openThanks Andy/Zig. Yes before I start investigating further I will clean up plugs/contacts etc. I think mine must be wired into the ignition relay, ie power on when initially turning the key and on cranking. Also my ignition is set on 8 degrees BTDC as recommended by the "Bible" for unleaded fuel. So another area to ponder/adjust. I've got the boot Collin so that it does now lock but the nearside is still proud of the wing. Further adjustment of the lock pin does bring the boot lid in line but not locking. I've spent hours "fannying" around with it. From the forums thoughts on the subject I guess it's a TVR trait. Cheers John C.
From the forums thoughts on the subject I guess it's a TVR trait. Cheers John C.Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff