How many bolts?
Discussion
How Many bolts to drop the lift the body free of the chassis in a Chim / Griff - not interested in lifting the whole way just enough to get to the outside tubes for painting. (Did similar to the back of 3000m -jacked it a good 8 - 10 inches to weld in a rotted out chassis tube). If only wanting to go up a few inches can the electric be left alone?
jellison said:
How Many bolts to drop the lift the body free of the chassis in a Chim / Griff - not interested in lifting the whole way just enough to get to the outside tubes for painting. (Did similar to the back of 3000m -jacked it a good 8 - 10 inches to weld in a rotted out chassis tube). If only wanting to go up a few inches can the electric be left alone?
Sorry didn't spot this earlier. There are 28 bolts in all. 2 near the radiator, 2 below the dash, 4 behind the fuel tank, 14 underneath on the outriggers, and 6 for seatbelts.
Thing is though, most of the work involved in fully removing the chassis is just removing these bolts. There maybe enough slack in the engine wiring loom, but brake and fuel lines will need to be disconnected. Also the wiring to the fuel pump, wheel speed sensor, reverse switch and handbrake (you'll see the last 2 when take apart the gear and handbrake linkage).
I did manage to access to the 2 bolts under the dash without removing the dash. However I did have to cut an access flap in the carpet at the right place each side and then used a ratcheting 17mm ring spanner. Can't tell that its cut because it's well hidden.
I assume that you also took the rad out or at least disconnected it as it is connected to the body and chassis via it piping. Also make it easier to get to the two bolts under the rad.
When lifting the body, worth keeping the door closed so that the body does not flex in the middle. It can help to tip the back up first, move the body forward and then up. A lot depends on whether the engine etc has been left in or taken out earlier.
When lifting the body, worth keeping the door closed so that the body does not flex in the middle. It can help to tip the back up first, move the body forward and then up. A lot depends on whether the engine etc has been left in or taken out earlier.
Forgot about that.
When doing mine the rad was already out by that point, and so were the heater matrix connections. As were the wishbones, anti roll bars, gearbox (created a crossmember to sit the engine at the back restrained by the chassis), exhaust manifolds, the engine electrics were all marked-up & disconnected. I left the engine in because the crane I borrowed didn't have the reach, so I had to drop the chassis onto castors, roll it forward and then pick the engine up.
When I dropped the chassis the body was sat on a 6-point timber framework, with the doors shut and the roof on. It was a heart stopping moment!
>> Edited by wheeljack888 on Thursday 17th February 21:11
When doing mine the rad was already out by that point, and so were the heater matrix connections. As were the wishbones, anti roll bars, gearbox (created a crossmember to sit the engine at the back restrained by the chassis), exhaust manifolds, the engine electrics were all marked-up & disconnected. I left the engine in because the crane I borrowed didn't have the reach, so I had to drop the chassis onto castors, roll it forward and then pick the engine up.
When I dropped the chassis the body was sat on a 6-point timber framework, with the doors shut and the roof on. It was a heart stopping moment!
>> Edited by wheeljack888 on Thursday 17th February 21:11
HELP. I have taken all the bolts out yesterday (thanks for all commenst and mails on how to do it - follower all these so as far as I can tell all out!) - cut epoxy etc (can't get the f**king steering linkage disconnencted) but it still won'y come up - started to come up at the front 1" but midle and back no movement. All 4 bolts in boot out 2(2allen 2normal),
all seat belt mounts (took seats out) all the bit 17 mm ones in the floors for driver and passenger, one on the transmission tunnel.
HELP! Out rigger seem SHIT _ the car is 5.5 year old!
all seat belt mounts (took seats out) all the bit 17 mm ones in the floors for driver and passenger, one on the transmission tunnel.
HELP! Out rigger seem SHIT _ the car is 5.5 year old!
jellison said:
HELP. I have taken all the bolts out yesterday (thanks for all commenst and mails on how to do it - follower all these so as far as I can tell all out!) - cut epoxy etc (can't get the f**king steering linkage disconnencted) but it still won'y come up - started to come up at the front 1" but midle and back no movement. All 4 bolts in boot out 2(2allen 2normal),
all seat belt mounts (took seats out) all the bit 17 mm ones in the floors for driver and passenger, one on the transmission tunnel.
HELP! Out rigger seem SHIT _ the car is 5.5 year old!
Get a large flat screw driver to prize apart the steering linkage.
The outriggers will have a lot of road crap acting like a wedge,give the body a little shake,it should start to loosen up,presumming all the bolts are out.Have you undone the allen key bolts that are behind the fuel tank?
Yep to the allen screws in boot and the lower 17mil ones - thought about the shit in the rails. Will have to have another go at the linkage - was bashing the screw drivers in it but rod seemed to have no way to go. Car at fathers - cas to be done while ls is out (wiring starting next week) as whole car needs to be as good as the engine. Much better presumably in warmer climate?!
jellison said:
Yep to the allen screws in boot and the lower 17mil ones - thought about the shit in the rails. Will have to have another go at the linkage - was bashing the screw drivers in it but rod seemed to have no way to go. Car at fathers - cas to be done while ls is out (wiring starting next week) as whole car needs to be as good as the engine. Much better presumably in warmer climate?!
Hello Jon
The rear did take a bit of persuasion before letting go. I would guess that it is because of the tight fit at the rear due to the four bosses on the chassis and the seat-belt inertia reel mount plates. That tight fit makes it ace for locating the body on re-assembly though.
I also had difficulty with U/J on the steering linkage, so I disconnected from the rack end instead, which was much easier.
Phil
You did loosen both ends & both UJs didn't you? You need to manipulate the top & bottom together to separate mine.
I have mounts both sides under the transmission cover, not 1 (just in front of the box, where the battery-chassis earth is).
Cant you go round with a pry bar to find where its fixed? - may also work loose the silkaflex sealant round the bolt holes.
Dave
I have mounts both sides under the transmission cover, not 1 (just in front of the box, where the battery-chassis earth is).
Cant you go round with a pry bar to find where its fixed? - may also work loose the silkaflex sealant round the bolt holes.
Dave
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