Replacing all engine gaskets
Replacing all engine gaskets
Author
Discussion

RoLS

Original Poster:

22 posts

131 months

Wednesday 6th January 2016
quotequote all
Hello all,

First of all my best wishes to all for 2016 !

Since I have several oil leaks on the engine of my TVR S1 I am planning to take the engine out and replacing the gaskets. I suspect the leaks are coming from the rocker covers and the oil sump gasket, but since the engine has to be removed to replace the oil sump gasket I would like to replace all gaskets.

This is the set I would buy:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FULL-ENGINE-HEAD-GASKET-...

My question is what to inspect and replace while I'm there ?

thanks !
Robin


Edited by RoLS on Wednesday 6th January 20:52

glenrobbo

39,234 posts

172 months

Wednesday 6th January 2016
quotequote all
Hi Robin,
The sump can be removed with the engine in situ by cutting out the chassis cross-member and fabricating a bolt-in replacement. You also need to remove the anti-roll bar. Phillpot has done it successfully and I had my S1 done by Ivor, my friendly local TVR guy.

Another likely source of engine oil leakage is the front crankshaft oil seal.
Also make sure that your engine mount rubbers haven't sagged and allowed the sump to chafe against the anti-roll bar. There should be enough clearance to get your finger between them.

phillpot

17,442 posts

205 months

Wednesday 6th January 2016
quotequote all
Yours must be an early car, 2.8 engine?

On the 2.9 (2.8 may well be the same) there is an O ring on the distributor shaft that is prone to leaking. Oil runs down and can look as if it's coming from rear of rocker covers or the sump. Difficult to tell if there is one included in that set.


Your solution for a small leak or two seems perhaps a little radical? Unless you are careful you may (imho) create more problems than you cure scratchchin

Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 6th January 23:30

RoLS

Original Poster:

22 posts

131 months

Thursday 7th January 2016
quotequote all
Hi,

There is no space between the cross member and the oil sump frown.

I have read about cutting it in Steve Heath's book, altough he doesn't recommand it ( weakens chassis or even distorts it).

That and the fact I was thinking if that gasket has come to the end of his lifespan the other might be as well made me consider removing the engine.

My biggist oil leak comes from the oil sump gasket, when parked on a hill nose down oil runs out at the front part of the sump. May also be the crankshaft oil seal.

Breaking gives the same result, ...

RoLS

Original Poster:

22 posts

131 months

Thursday 7th January 2016
quotequote all
It's indeed a 2,8 engine. Grtz

glenrobbo

39,234 posts

172 months

Thursday 7th January 2016
quotequote all
I have just found a photo of the modified removeable cross member. ( courtesy of Phillpot ):


RoLS

Original Poster:

22 posts

131 months

Thursday 7th January 2016
quotequote all
Hi glenrobbo,

Looks good. No deformation of the chassis after cutting ?

phillpot

17,442 posts

205 months

Thursday 7th January 2016
quotequote all

No detectable issues, a few have done (or had done for them) this cross member modification, no negative feedback so far!



If oil is literally running out I would strongly suspect the front oil seal, as has been suggested. Sump gasket just "sits there", doing nothing, going nowhere why should it suddenly decide to fail? With age and deterioration it could perhaps "weep" a bit but unlikely to pour out (imho), maybe could put a socket on all the bolts and see if they pinch up a touch?

If there are big lumps of gasket goo everywhere it could be that someone has had it off in the past and done a cr*p job of re-fitting it?

Oil seal on the other hand can wear, perish, generally deteriorate with age and in extreme cases a groove forms in the pulley shaft it seals (or not) onto.

My plan would be a jolly good clean up and some careful monitoring wink

Edited by phillpot on Friday 8th January 08:28

RoLS

Original Poster:

22 posts

131 months

Thursday 14th January 2016
quotequote all
Hi

I will take your advice. I am busy cleaning the engine and will search for the oil leak.

I noticed my engine has sagged (no space between anti-roll bar and the sump).

Which engine mounts should I buy ? (There are 2inch and 1/2 inch mounts ?)

TVR S 2.8i 1988.

thx!

Barry S1

1,709 posts

211 months

Thursday 14th January 2016
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5o mm and good luck, you will need it

phillpot

17,442 posts

205 months

Thursday 14th January 2016
quotequote all
As Barry says, you want the thick ones (FP292) and it's worth getting the support cups , imho



... and a decent 17mm ratchet spanner. wink



Been many discussions and advice in the past, here's one to start you off. smile

Edited by phillpot on Thursday 14th January 21:15

RoLS

Original Poster:

22 posts

131 months

Thursday 14th January 2016
quotequote all
Ok I'll start reading wink

magpies

5,191 posts

204 months

Thursday 14th January 2016
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RoLS

Original Poster:

22 posts

131 months

Saturday 16th January 2016
quotequote all
I bought the mounts and thinking of making the support cups myselfn from some inox tube. Could someone help me with the measurements ? The rubber is 52mm thick, the cups are ?? deep. (40mm ?) I suppose the diameter has to be a close fit so i will measure this when the supports are in.

RoLS

Original Poster:

22 posts

131 months

Saturday 28th May 2016
quotequote all
Hi

Been a while, but i replaced the engine mounts last weekend. Since i sprayed the bolts with WD40 2 months before en repeated it a few times the mounts came loose quite quickly.
Still had to do it by one click at a time with the ratched spanner tough tongue out

I also replaced the oil sump gasket and the leak seems solved! smile

Now started on my doors, and the list doesnt stop there wink

Thanks for al the advice !