Alternator from Alternative Parts List
Alternator from Alternative Parts List
Author
Discussion

catretriever

Original Poster:

2,090 posts

265 months

Thursday 21st January 2016
quotequote all
Hi All,

my original alternator failed recently and I took a punt on ordering the 90amp Q&H FRA671 as suggested by the alternative parts list without actually checking the original. On receiving the new alternator I realised that the new part doesn't have the same 3 pin connection as the original, DOH!

So I'm wondering now if/how I can modify said lead to make the connections, and what should go where?

Can anyone give any tips or advice before I give up and return it?

thanks

Matt

catretriever

Original Poster:

2,090 posts

265 months

Thursday 21st January 2016
quotequote all
The new alternator looks like this btw

https://www.redlinecarparts.com/i/1030/438/product...

TVRees

1,086 posts

135 months

Thursday 21st January 2016
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Are you sure it's not OK ? Here's a picture of an original, from a S2.
What are you missing ?

catretriever

Original Poster:

2,090 posts

265 months

Thursday 21st January 2016
quotequote all
So mine looks like this...

catretriever

Original Poster:

2,090 posts

265 months

Friday 22nd January 2016
quotequote all
Well it looks like the new one fits mechanically at least, so I guess I need to cut of the 3 pin plug and connect the wires individually.

Can anyone provide a pic of an alternator of the style Tim posted, but wired up?

thanks.

TVRees

1,086 posts

135 months

Friday 22nd January 2016
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I could help you there. How about this ....


catretriever

Original Poster:

2,090 posts

265 months

Saturday 23rd January 2016
quotequote all
Thanks Tim that's very helpful.

Looking at my old alternator I can see that the two larger spade connectors for the 3pin plug are actually connected together inside the alternator. So I guess that means on my new one I should connect those two wires to the B+ connector, and the smaller wire (for the indicator lamp) to the D+ connector.

here goes nothing biggrin

TVRees

1,086 posts

135 months

Saturday 23rd January 2016
quotequote all
The B+ connects to the battery. The D+ is an auxillary output of the alternator and I belive this supplies power to the dashboard instruments.

catretriever

Original Poster:

2,090 posts

265 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Yep I got it all wired up. D+ is definitley for the indicator lamp, tho it took me a while to realise a blown lamp was preventing the alternator from charging.

Handy diagram here...


RayTVR

1,087 posts

166 months

Monday 25th January 2016
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Useful info - did you get the alternator from Redline as well?

Useful if you could confirm part number etc.

Thanks


catretriever

Original Poster:

2,090 posts

265 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
I got the alternator from http://alternatorsnstarters.co.uk

"Brand New 90amp Alternator + 1V Pully FRA671 OE Quality" based on the suggestion from the S Alternative Parts list.

The product id from A&S was ANS10191.



Since I had to replace the battery indicator lamp (TVR what were you thinking?!?) I now have to come up with a replacement for the indicator strip/swoosh :/


(edit) I should mention that the adjuster arm fixing didn't quite line up so required a few washers/spacers (edit)

Edited by catretriever on Monday 25th January 13:24

phillpot

17,448 posts

206 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
catretriever said:
it took me a while to realise a blown lamp was preventing the alternator from charging.
It is the current drawn by that bulb that gets the alternator going. The S is known for needing a few revs to get the alternator to kick in, this can be helped by putting another bulb in parallel.

I think it will possibly kick in even if the bulb has blown if seriously revved up?


I shall wait to be corrected by people who know a lot more about electricaltricitity than me smile

TVRees

1,086 posts

135 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
phillpot said:
It is the current drawn by that bulb that gets the alternator going. The S is known for needing a few revs to get the alternator to kick in, this can be helped by putting another bulb in parallel
I just read up on this and it is correct. When the ignition switch is turned on, current flows through the warning lamp to the alternator rotor causing a small amount of magnetism, which the alternator needs to get going. Then, as the alternator starts to generate electricity, the lamp will dim and eventually go out when the alternator output > battery voltage.



catretriever

Original Poster:

2,090 posts

265 months

Tuesday 26th January 2016
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Between us we almost sound like we know what we're talking about biggrin

glenrobbo

39,305 posts

173 months

Tuesday 26th January 2016
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It's all about getting excited! hehe