Torque setting for water rails?
Discussion
Hi all,
I bought a pair of stainless steel water rails for my 4.2 cerbera. One is water tight, but the drivers side keeps leeking from one flange , no mater how hard I tighten hex bolts. I'm worried about stripping the threads Does anyone know the torque setting for the rails?
Thanks Mark
I bought a pair of stainless steel water rails for my 4.2 cerbera. One is water tight, but the drivers side keeps leeking from one flange , no mater how hard I tighten hex bolts. I'm worried about stripping the threads Does anyone know the torque setting for the rails?
Thanks Mark
I've had to remove the water rails more times than I care to remember. I've only fitted new seals once, and never used sealant. I suspect either one of the seals has been nicked or there is some debris preventing the seal. They should stand proud of the head and don't need any significant torque to seal, but if insufficient torque were used they might back out.
Not terribly helpful in this case I know but when I rebuilt the last AJP I helicoiled just about everything. The alloy seems to be somewhere around 60% aluminium, 5% silicon and 35% chocolate.
Well worth doing when the engine's out and can save some pain later as you can then tonk such things up without much worry about stripping threads. It was especially beneficial on inlet manifold, exhaust manifold and water rail fixings. I also did the whole lot round the bellhousing face figuring that with the cars appetite for clutches they might be on and off a few times over the years.
Well worth doing when the engine's out and can save some pain later as you can then tonk such things up without much worry about stripping threads. It was especially beneficial on inlet manifold, exhaust manifold and water rail fixings. I also did the whole lot round the bellhousing face figuring that with the cars appetite for clutches they might be on and off a few times over the years.
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