Torque setting for water rails?
Torque setting for water rails?
Author
Discussion

S3THUNDER

Original Poster:

104 posts

147 months

Sunday 24th January 2016
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Hi all,
I bought a pair of stainless steel water rails for my 4.2 cerbera. One is water tight, but the drivers side keeps leeking from one flange , no mater how hard I tighten hex bolts. I'm worried about stripping the threads Does anyone know the torque setting for the rails?

Thanks Mark


gruffalo

8,088 posts

248 months

Monday 25th January 2016
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Not sure of the specific torque figure but I would suggest removal and looking at the "O" ring.

Also lay the water rail on a flat surface and check all the flanges are level and there is no manufacturing fault.


Supateg

797 posts

164 months

Monday 25th January 2016
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Wise words from Gruffalo there

Just to add, a dab of sealant on the o rings to 'glue them in place'
Overnight will work wonders for the install. Don't over torque, I used Spring washers
And re checked after a heat cycle, all good.

Hth

Supateg

797 posts

164 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Exhaust is 25ftlb the thread is the same as the water rails and only
5mm length difference as my cloudy memory recalls.
So 25lbft dry. (Ajp block is quite soft so go easy)

S3THUNDER

Original Poster:

104 posts

147 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
As always, thanks for your advice. The o rings I bought were 3mm thick x 15mm inside diameter,which is what the old ones measured. Then I used a small amount of Hylomar Blue,probably not quite enough.

ukkid35

6,380 posts

195 months

Tuesday 26th January 2016
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I've had to remove the water rails more times than I care to remember. I've only fitted new seals once, and never used sealant. I suspect either one of the seals has been nicked or there is some debris preventing the seal. They should stand proud of the head and don't need any significant torque to seal, but if insufficient torque were used they might back out.

fatjon

2,298 posts

235 months

Tuesday 26th January 2016
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Not terribly helpful in this case I know but when I rebuilt the last AJP I helicoiled just about everything. The alloy seems to be somewhere around 60% aluminium, 5% silicon and 35% chocolate.

Well worth doing when the engine's out and can save some pain later as you can then tonk such things up without much worry about stripping threads. It was especially beneficial on inlet manifold, exhaust manifold and water rail fixings. I also did the whole lot round the bellhousing face figuring that with the cars appetite for clutches they might be on and off a few times over the years.

Cerberaherts

1,652 posts

163 months

Thursday 28th January 2016
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AJP build manual calls for 20 ft. Lbs.