996 dead battery and bonnet release
Discussion
After a a bit if advise on my 996
The battery keeps going flat and setting the alarm off. I know about opening te bonnet using the connector in the fuse box, my question is will this still work if I disconnect the main battery?
I've got leave it outside at the moment and obviously don't want to leave the boot on the latch
The battery keeps going flat and setting the alarm off. I know about opening te bonnet using the connector in the fuse box, my question is will this still work if I disconnect the main battery?
I've got leave it outside at the moment and obviously don't want to leave the boot on the latch
I had a very similar issue in my 997.2 GTS over the last few weeks. I removed the battery and closed the boot in the belief that the fuse box circuit would solve my problem, and in the end it did. But let me impart two pieces of information that I couldn't find adequately explained:
1) the positive lead of the battery used to power the boot circuit needs to be connected to an earth, and a poor connection will render it impossible to open the boot. I ended up using the door latch towards the rear of the car as this is clean, unpainted metal, whereas using the hinge as described in the manual didn't work for me.
2) after more than an hour of being convinced that I had the correct set-up and still being unable to open the boot, I randomly pressed the boot opening button on the key fob, and as if by magic, the boot opened. This was despite the button in the car itself not working (and after having installed the battery in the car, the button was perfectly functional). YMMV.
Also, don't put your key in the ignition as you will be unable to retrieve it should you not get power to the circuit. My problem was exacerbated by the complication of centre-lock wheels, which are an absolute b***ache to remove. I would follow the advice above and at least ensure that the space and equipment to remove the wheel and wheel arch lining is available, should the need arise.
1) the positive lead of the battery used to power the boot circuit needs to be connected to an earth, and a poor connection will render it impossible to open the boot. I ended up using the door latch towards the rear of the car as this is clean, unpainted metal, whereas using the hinge as described in the manual didn't work for me.
2) after more than an hour of being convinced that I had the correct set-up and still being unable to open the boot, I randomly pressed the boot opening button on the key fob, and as if by magic, the boot opened. This was despite the button in the car itself not working (and after having installed the battery in the car, the button was perfectly functional). YMMV.
Also, don't put your key in the ignition as you will be unable to retrieve it should you not get power to the circuit. My problem was exacerbated by the complication of centre-lock wheels, which are an absolute b***ache to remove. I would follow the advice above and at least ensure that the space and equipment to remove the wheel and wheel arch lining is available, should the need arise.
Quick tip for you guys, I have a mobile jump start pack from Costco, less than £100.
It has a cig lighter output as an option for power, so you can just unlock the door manually, jump in, plug it into any cig lighter port and it gives full power to the car. Not good to start the engine like that obviously, but more than enough to release the bonnet etc.
I did this when taking my battery out last month and charging it indoors. Also has a air compressor to pump the tyres up with, I don't leave the house for a long journey without it.
It has a cig lighter output as an option for power, so you can just unlock the door manually, jump in, plug it into any cig lighter port and it gives full power to the car. Not good to start the engine like that obviously, but more than enough to release the bonnet etc.
I did this when taking my battery out last month and charging it indoors. Also has a air compressor to pump the tyres up with, I don't leave the house for a long journey without it.
ok, so this was bound to happen 
Decoupled the battery, charged it and closed the frunk. Tried with the C-tek charger connecting red to the +ve connector in the fusebox and black to the door hinge to open it again. Nada unfortunately. Any suggestions what might be the situation?
it is a 996.2
thanks

Decoupled the battery, charged it and closed the frunk. Tried with the C-tek charger connecting red to the +ve connector in the fusebox and black to the door hinge to open it again. Nada unfortunately. Any suggestions what might be the situation?
it is a 996.2
thanks
Hi. Did you fix this? I have the same problem, jumper pack connected to the +ve in the fuse box and the front door latch didn't work for me. It was dark when I tried so tomorrow I'm going back to find a better earth.
Edit: I popped the rear hatch by fishing out the cable from under the LH light...

...and connected the jumper pack to the points here:

Power was restored and I was able to jump start the car.
Edit: I popped the rear hatch by fishing out the cable from under the LH light...

...and connected the jumper pack to the points here:

Power was restored and I was able to jump start the car.
Edited by nsa on Tuesday 1st May 11:59
I find that when it's completely dead the best way in is to undo the three Allen keys, lift the sill with the levers by the the drivers door, push the metal stopper away, then you can pull the lever as normal.
Saves fishing around the rear lights.
May require you to chop an Allen key down depending on seats.
Happy to post some pics, but this is well documented online already.
Saves fishing around the rear lights.
May require you to chop an Allen key down depending on seats.
Happy to post some pics, but this is well documented online already.
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