Discussion
Hi,
I am getting the bug back for the Old Lady, and there are a few things I would like to get done.
I have the new roof cost, and if I want her to be perfect I think she could do with a respray with a couple of repairs. I have three 'spiders' in the paint work. It would be great if these weren't there, plus almost 30 years of stone chips! From 3m away it is perfect, I might add. These are just little things.
So the questions is - how much to respray and where would you recommend?
Gregg
I am getting the bug back for the Old Lady, and there are a few things I would like to get done.
I have the new roof cost, and if I want her to be perfect I think she could do with a respray with a couple of repairs. I have three 'spiders' in the paint work. It would be great if these weren't there, plus almost 30 years of stone chips! From 3m away it is perfect, I might add. These are just little things.
So the questions is - how much to respray and where would you recommend?
Gregg
I am interested in this one. I have been promising 'her' a respray for some time. There have been several repairs in the past and despite my best efforts to get aerosol paint mixed to match...you cant match paint which isnt all perfectly the same colour! So I would like to start investigating with a view to a respray within 12 months.
However there is a preparation problem to tackle first and I would really like to hear from other people who might have experience. I have a couple of areas of microblistering. This seems to be mainly confined to an area which has definitely had a repair and repaint at some time, certainly more than 10 years ago. I know quite a bit about grp used in boatbuilding and in a couple of other applications but I am not totally sure if the problem is being caused by osmosis, which would be confined to the surface, or is due at least in part to capillary action where the underlying grp laminate has been stressed.
Opinions,ideas, experience???

However there is a preparation problem to tackle first and I would really like to hear from other people who might have experience. I have a couple of areas of microblistering. This seems to be mainly confined to an area which has definitely had a repair and repaint at some time, certainly more than 10 years ago. I know quite a bit about grp used in boatbuilding and in a couple of other applications but I am not totally sure if the problem is being caused by osmosis, which would be confined to the surface, or is due at least in part to capillary action where the underlying grp laminate has been stressed.

Opinions,ideas, experience???


Had mine resprayed by at:
Eric Poole & Sons
Unit 37
Claydon Ind Park
Ipswich
Suffolk IP6 0NL
They do a lot of work for Kerridges of Stowmarket who are a well known TVR garage and old dealership. The chaps there were extremely understanding of requirements and know the S inside out. I was told that a lot of the brand new cars, had to visit the bodyshop for a 'little fettling' before they went out of the showroom. Mainly door alterations to stop them protruding past the body, etc..
They've done a great job on my S3c and are highly recommended, but as said before it's the depth of your pocket which determines the quality (in most cases anyway). I stripped the car before it went to the shop and rebuilt after and the cost was £3000. The additional work I had done was new door hinges/bobbins, removal of the filler cap aperture and windscreen removal.
Eric Poole & Sons
Unit 37
Claydon Ind Park
Ipswich
Suffolk IP6 0NL
They do a lot of work for Kerridges of Stowmarket who are a well known TVR garage and old dealership. The chaps there were extremely understanding of requirements and know the S inside out. I was told that a lot of the brand new cars, had to visit the bodyshop for a 'little fettling' before they went out of the showroom. Mainly door alterations to stop them protruding past the body, etc..
They've done a great job on my S3c and are highly recommended, but as said before it's the depth of your pocket which determines the quality (in most cases anyway). I stripped the car before it went to the shop and rebuilt after and the cost was £3000. The additional work I had done was new door hinges/bobbins, removal of the filler cap aperture and windscreen removal.
Or you could go down the route of vinyl wrap/plasti dip for a lot less money, around £800 depending on finishes, metallic, pearlescent etc
http://dipmania.co.uk/
http://www.carvotion.co.uk/free-wrapping-quote?gcl...
Plenty of places doing it, I'm quite tempted myself
http://dipmania.co.uk/
http://www.carvotion.co.uk/free-wrapping-quote?gcl...
Plenty of places doing it, I'm quite tempted myself
greyhulk said:
Or you could go down the route of vinyl wrap/plasti dip for a lot less money, around £800 .....
I'm only guessing but I imagine that £800 excludes any sort of remedial work on the original finish. Vinal, or any other sort of covering will not hide any significant damage and, if you've ever tried laying Fablon or similar, even a tiny speck of dirt causes a little bump in the finish.IMO vinyl works well on a newish car with good bodywork.
Sticking Fablon on panels is a good way of trying out colours though, because you can cover a larger surface than you can with a spray tester. Also,you can see how the colours look on the different curves and angles. Almost certainly you you won't be able to get the exact colour you want, but you might find something close and Fablon, or similar, is cheaper than sprays and easier to get off. So if you can get a a colour similar to what you want, it makes a good starting point.
[quote=greymrj]I am interested in this one. I have been promising 'her' a respray for some time. There have been several repairs in the past and despite my best efforts to get aerosol paint mixed to match...you cant match paint which isnt all perfectly the same colour! So I would like to start investigating with a view to a respray within 12 months.
However there is a preparation problem to tackle first and I would really like to hear from other people who might have experience. I have a couple of areas of microblistering. This seems to be mainly confined to an area which has definitely had a repair and repaint at some time, certainly more than 10 years ago. I know quite a bit about grp used in boatbuilding and in a couple of other applications but I am not totally sure if the problem is being caused by osmosis, which would be confined to the surface, or is due at least in part to capillary action where the underlying grp laminate has been stressed.
Opinions,ideas, experience???
[/quote
There has been much debate over this on the Scimitar forum,but I've not seen anything conclusive and I'm not aware of any sprayer who would give any guarantee that the blisters won't recur.
It seems to be that the problem can be caused by any of three issues,firstly damp ingress,it's certain for instance that leaving a car outside long term under an unsuitable car cover that holds the moisture onto the paint will cause blistering.
Secondly,bad repairs where for instance body filler alone is used will soon show through the new paint.
Thirdly,and this is the real difficulty,is it caused just by natural ageing of the grp so there is little that can be done?
If it was me I would seek out a paint shop that were specialists in grip work and could point to cars that they had done years ago where the paint was still near perfect.I would let them do all the repairs since they are not going to take responsibility otherwise.
As I understand it a top quality job will involve removing all the old paint down to the gel coat,then allowing the body to stand in a warm environment for quite some time to allow any moisture to thoroughly dry out At no stage should water be used in any rubbing down process.The first paint should be an epoxy primer which is impervious to water.
Not going to be cheap...
However there is a preparation problem to tackle first and I would really like to hear from other people who might have experience. I have a couple of areas of microblistering. This seems to be mainly confined to an area which has definitely had a repair and repaint at some time, certainly more than 10 years ago. I know quite a bit about grp used in boatbuilding and in a couple of other applications but I am not totally sure if the problem is being caused by osmosis, which would be confined to the surface, or is due at least in part to capillary action where the underlying grp laminate has been stressed.

Opinions,ideas, experience???

[/quoteThere has been much debate over this on the Scimitar forum,but I've not seen anything conclusive and I'm not aware of any sprayer who would give any guarantee that the blisters won't recur.
It seems to be that the problem can be caused by any of three issues,firstly damp ingress,it's certain for instance that leaving a car outside long term under an unsuitable car cover that holds the moisture onto the paint will cause blistering.
Secondly,bad repairs where for instance body filler alone is used will soon show through the new paint.
Thirdly,and this is the real difficulty,is it caused just by natural ageing of the grp so there is little that can be done?
If it was me I would seek out a paint shop that were specialists in grip work and could point to cars that they had done years ago where the paint was still near perfect.I would let them do all the repairs since they are not going to take responsibility otherwise.
As I understand it a top quality job will involve removing all the old paint down to the gel coat,then allowing the body to stand in a warm environment for quite some time to allow any moisture to thoroughly dry out At no stage should water be used in any rubbing down process.The first paint should be an epoxy primer which is impervious to water.
Not going to be cheap...
Option 1 supposed to be good. http://www.option1sportscars.co.uk/
Not used myself but know someone who is booked in.
Not used myself but know someone who is booked in.
Stew Mc said:
Option 1 supposed to be good. http://www.option1sportscars.co.uk/
Not used myself but know someone who is booked in.
Indeed ( our S Not used myself but know someone who is booked in.
) is booked in for April, so should be looking dapper in time for the Euro tour. I must say I was very impressed with Fred he really seemed to know his way around an S.
JustAl said:
Stew Mc said:
Option 1 supposed to be good. http://www.option1sportscars.co.uk/
Not used myself but know someone who is booked in.
Indeed ( our S Not used myself but know someone who is booked in.
) is booked in for April, so should be looking dapper in time for the Euro tour. I must say I was very impressed with Fred he really seemed to know his way around an S.
JustAl said:
Stew Mc said:
Option 1 supposed to be good. http://www.option1sportscars.co.uk/
Not used myself but know someone who is booked in.
Indeed ( our S Not used myself but know someone who is booked in.
) is booked in for April, so should be looking dapper in time for the Euro tour. I must say I was very impressed with Fred he really seemed to know his way around an S.

I hope to start doing the body on my own car in a month or so. The route I took on my Taimar a few years ago was:
Sand down to remove all the paint, leaving gel coat only.
Sort out any blemishes and cracks, etc. by grinding down below the gel coat, filling with mat and resin, then r-surfacing the top. You can use something like Upol Reface (a spray polyester filler, rather like spraying on more gel coat) for this.
Epoxy primer
Then filler primer via guide coat to get ready for the final finish.
This time I will probably get a proper spayed with extracted/heated booth to put the top coat on. When I did the top coat on the Taimar all the bugs and dust went straight for it - maybe it was the green colour

Tony.
Sand down to remove all the paint, leaving gel coat only.
Sort out any blemishes and cracks, etc. by grinding down below the gel coat, filling with mat and resin, then r-surfacing the top. You can use something like Upol Reface (a spray polyester filler, rather like spraying on more gel coat) for this.
Epoxy primer
Then filler primer via guide coat to get ready for the final finish.
This time I will probably get a proper spayed with extracted/heated booth to put the top coat on. When I did the top coat on the Taimar all the bugs and dust went straight for it - maybe it was the green colour


Tony.
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