Wishbone bolts removal help

[jesfirth]

LI am swapping the standard wishbones for the tubular stronger type. Got the nuts off easily and the bolts fixing the wishbones to the chassis turn ok. What's the trick to sliding them out? I have tried turning them while applying pressure on the thread end but without success. I am trying to avoid cutting the old wishbones but will do so if necessary.


Update. Rear lower bolt coming out it's the front lower that just turns.

Edited by jesfirth on Saturday 27th February 10:11

[portzi]

It is a tricky job to do with body on as mine were done with body off. If it was me l would Try plus gas around the bolt on old wish bone, if that doesnt work some gentle heat with blow torch then a pin punch smaller diameter that bolt of course and the biggest lump hammer you can swing in that confined area. A chisel would work well again between bolt head face and wishbone to prise them apart. Replace all nuts bolts and washers of course

Edited by portzi on Saturday 27th February 11:14

[jesfirth]

portzi said:

It is a tricky job to do with body on as mine were done with body off. If it was me l would Try plus gas around the bolt on old wish bone, if that doesnt work some gentle heat with blow torch then a pin punch smaller diameter that bolt of course and the biggest lump hammer you can swing in that confined area.

Thanks. On the lower front the bolt points backwards and there is about 10mm between the front inner wing and the bolt end so no way of using force to push the bolt out. May drill a hole in the inner wing and wallop a long bar through under the radiator.

[portzi]

jesfirth said:

portzi said:

It is a tricky job to do with body on as mine were done with body off. If it was me l would Try plus gas around the bolt on old wish bone, if that doesnt work some gentle heat with blow torch then a pin punch smaller diameter that bolt of course and the biggest lump hammer you can swing in that confined area.

Thanks. On the lower front the bolt points backwards and there is about 10mm between the front inner wing and the bolt end so no way of using force to push the bolt out. May drill a hole in the inner wing and wallop a long bar through under the radiator.

Chisel between head of bolt and chassis wishbone bracket just to get it moving. Then if moving freely mole grips on bolt head and slide out?

[jesfirth]

Been trying to force a chisel in but there is no gap at all between the head and chassis so it just won't go in, that's exactly what I did on the rear bolt and it worked really easily. Drilled a hole in the front fibreglass beneath the rad and have been hitting a long bar located on the end of the bolt with a 4lb hammer it still won't shift. Getting properly irritated with it now.

[Alan461]

Has it got polybush or metalastic with thrust washers?
If the latter maybe you could see if the internal tube is rotating with the bolt, maybe cut the bolt with an angle grinder with slicing wheel in the gap where the thrust washer/polybush is

[portzi]

Alan461 said:

Has it got polybush or metalastic with thrust washers?
If the latter maybe you could see if the internal tube is rotating with the bolt, maybe cut the bolt with an angle grinder with slicing wheel in the gap where the thrust washer/polybush is

Cutter grinder would be my last resort, as sparks everywhere going into engine bay and on rubber and electrical parts. I would heat up the old wishbone around the bolt with controlled heat with blow torch unless you have oxy acet available?

[s p a c e m a n]

I must have used a gallon of lube on mine over the couple days that it took me. Crowbar, chisels, heat, lube, moving the wishbone up and down, wobbling it about and a lot of swearing. All of a sudden they come loose and you feel like you've won the lottery

[portzi]

s p a c e m a n said:

I must have used a gallon of lube on mine over the couple days that it took me. Crowbar, chisels, heat, lube, moving the wishbone up and down, wobbling it about and a lot of swearing. All of a sudden they come loose and you feel like you've won the lottery

The factory probably never used copper slip on the mating surfaces of bolt and bush internals got to love the seasiders

[jesfirth]

Well that was a proper pig of a job. Had to cut it off in the end. Just as well I am fitting new wishbones!

[jesfirth]

This is how bent the wishbone was hence the upgrade

[jesfirth]

All in bits which way up do the new top wishbones go. This way up?

[phazed]

Other way up.

[jesfirth]

That's what it thought. Thanks for the confirmation. Phased. Really didn't want to get it wrong!

[portzi]

jesfirth said:

That's what it thought. Thanks for the confirmation. Phased. Really didn't want to get it wrong!

Glad you had sorted it. It's a big job a chassis refurb,it just highlights the man hours involved to do a full nut and bolt refurb!!!

[portzi]

jesfirth said:

This is how bent the wishbone was hence the upgrade

That powdercoat has survived really well by the looks of things the metal is twisted but the coating looks OK?!!

[jesfirth]

portzi said:

jesfirth said:

This is how bent the wishbone was hence the upgrade

That powdercoat has survived really well by the looks of things the metal is twisted but the coating looks OK?!!

The finish you see there is actually hammerite. I recoated most of the chassis 3 years ago but it was in excellent condition when I bought it. Then I wax oiled it hence the grubby bits on the wishbones.

[jesfirth]

8 hours to get the passenger side apart and 4 hours to press in new bearings and put it back together. 1 hour to strip the drivers side and 1 hour to get it mostly back together. Chalk and cheese or bolts locked solid on one side and bolts moved easily on the other!

Now just got to sort out the ride height, camber, geometry, get it corner weighted etc. A fun weekend. I love my TIV.

[Richard 858]

Well done for persevering Jes. Look forward to meeting up on the 12th ?

[s p a c e m a n]

Seem to remember that twist being there for a drop link or something, or am I thinking of another car??