Is my 2.0 TFSI dead?
Discussion
Went to my first track day in my golf mark 5 gti and did about three laps before I got a warning light on my dash (OIL PRESSURE TURN ENGINE OFF) I came off the track, turned the engine off. Checked the oil level, oil was fine and no leaks. Started it up again and drove to the paddock and as I was coming to a stop, it cut out, pretty much where I wanted it to stop. After that I tried to turn it back on, and it wouldn't. When I tried I think it was cranking but just not firing into life.
I scanned it with an obd2 reader I brought with me and it came back with P0011 code.
I scanned it with an obd2 reader I brought with me and it came back with P0011 code.
sounds pretty terminal.
assume the light popped up when you were going round a corner and the pickup momentarily lost oil pickup.
the fact you have a timing code means i reacon the belts snapped and youve got bent valves in the head.
in hindsight you should have turned it off the very second it popped up and rolled tp a safe spot on track
assume the light popped up when you were going round a corner and the pickup momentarily lost oil pickup.
the fact you have a timing code means i reacon the belts snapped and youve got bent valves in the head.
in hindsight you should have turned it off the very second it popped up and rolled tp a safe spot on track
From looking at the below, I'd say it's certainly dead for the time being however [at an expense] probably salvageable.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16395/P00...
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16395/P00...
Well im hoping the cams arent out of time or seized. Im going to hand crank the engine to see if seized or valves or pistons are affected. I dont know how to check if the timing is right, the cam chain might have skipped a tooth.
There was no bang when it cut out, just died. When I turn the ignition now it just whirs and doesn't fire. Im hoping once ive cleared the pick up pipe and put no oil in, it will start.
Although tbh im doubfull. I dont know what would be stopping the engine starting?
There was no bang when it cut out, just died. When I turn the ignition now it just whirs and doesn't fire. Im hoping once ive cleared the pick up pipe and put no oil in, it will start.
Although tbh im doubfull. I dont know what would be stopping the engine starting?
tinytom11 said:
I dont know what would be stopping the engine starting?
If the belt has snapped the whirring is the starter motor spinning the bottom end only as there's nothing connecting it to the head/cams.First sensible check is going to be pulling the timing cover off for a look, then probably the head if the belt has snapped/shredded/come off.
Knowing the condition of the belt is key; if that's intact then we're all barking up the wrong tree.
Oil pump would be the second option. Shame 
Quite a bit rarer happening, is it an AXX engine?
Rip the sump off and check the crank bearings for wear. If they are good then you would probably be better off replacing the pump.
Otherwise I would say just to whack in a new engine, I say new, a second hand lump, they are cheap enough (less than £2k for an engine with ancillaries, if you get a block only and transfer over your turbo, alternator etc then half that) and on facebook there is a TFSI Tuning group which will have one for sale I'm sure.
If you have an AXX or BWA it may be an excuse to put a CDL engine in.
Silver linings and all that pal.
Quite a bit rarer happening, is it an AXX engine?
Rip the sump off and check the crank bearings for wear. If they are good then you would probably be better off replacing the pump.
Otherwise I would say just to whack in a new engine, I say new, a second hand lump, they are cheap enough (less than £2k for an engine with ancillaries, if you get a block only and transfer over your turbo, alternator etc then half that) and on facebook there is a TFSI Tuning group which will have one for sale I'm sure.
If you have an AXX or BWA it may be an excuse to put a CDL engine in.
Silver linings and all that pal.
Thanks jay. Im not a hundred percent sure that it is the pump at the moment. Ive got the sump off, but am not sure where the crank bearings are...
Its an axx.
Im just trying to eliminate things at the mo, I can hand turn the crankshaft and it feels like there is compression. Do you know if there is away to chexk if the oil pump is working without the engine running? Like using vcds whilst turning the ignition so the engine is cranking?
Its an axx.
Im just trying to eliminate things at the mo, I can hand turn the crankshaft and it feels like there is compression. Do you know if there is away to chexk if the oil pump is working without the engine running? Like using vcds whilst turning the ignition so the engine is cranking?
No unfortunately.
Only way is to disconnect the coil packs and crank the engine with an oil pressure gauge connected.
You can check the crank bearings by removing the big cover plate up in the sump. It's only a few bolts. Then you'll see the bottom of the crank.
When you said the car cut out, was it making a horrible noise, rattling, knocking etc? Or did it just die as if you had turned off the car.
These cars are not smart enough to have a oil pressure problem anti-start feature. It could be an electrical issue for all we know.
How many miles has the car done, what is the service history at a glance?
Only way is to disconnect the coil packs and crank the engine with an oil pressure gauge connected.
You can check the crank bearings by removing the big cover plate up in the sump. It's only a few bolts. Then you'll see the bottom of the crank.
When you said the car cut out, was it making a horrible noise, rattling, knocking etc? Or did it just die as if you had turned off the car.
These cars are not smart enough to have a oil pressure problem anti-start feature. It could be an electrical issue for all we know.
How many miles has the car done, what is the service history at a glance?
xjay1337 said:
No unfortunately.
Only way is to disconnect the coil packs and crank the engine with an oil pressure gauge connected.
You can check the crank bearings by removing the big cover plate up in the sump. It's only a few bolts. Then you'll see the bottom of the crank.
When you said the car cut out, was it making a horrible noise, rattling, knocking etc? Or did it just die as if you had turned off the car.
These cars are not smart enough to have a oil pressure problem anti-start feature. It could be an electrical issue for all we know.
How many miles has the car done, what is the service history at a glance?
Ok, I will remove it and check out the crankshaft, are the bearings just at either end? On the other forum, someone has said the only way to make sure the pump is ok is to fully remove it and inspect it :/ Do you know if this is easily done?Only way is to disconnect the coil packs and crank the engine with an oil pressure gauge connected.
You can check the crank bearings by removing the big cover plate up in the sump. It's only a few bolts. Then you'll see the bottom of the crank.
When you said the car cut out, was it making a horrible noise, rattling, knocking etc? Or did it just die as if you had turned off the car.
These cars are not smart enough to have a oil pressure problem anti-start feature. It could be an electrical issue for all we know.
How many miles has the car done, what is the service history at a glance?
It was making a really loud rattling noise when I was coming off the track, and continued to do so until the engine cut out, but it did cut out like it had just turned off. It had the cam chain rattle noise before this, and it was just that noise but much much worse.
110k and oil and filter service done a month ago.
I'm thinking its garage time
To be fair mate it sounds like you've had the death rattle already.
I've never taken the oil pump off myself. Just had a search, doesn't seem that hard.
To be honest mate if you've already had the death rattle I would just swap the engine out. Check the turbo out for shaft play if you've lost oil pressure the turbo feed is the first feed off the filter so that'll be first to lose pressure.
There is a guide here.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7046630-...
1. Drain oil and remove filter
2. Remove oil pan
3. Remove the chain guard cover in front of the chain and sprockets. There are three tabs on it and just pulls straight off.
4. Slide screwdriver up the side of the chain by the oil pump sprocket in order to depress the chain tensioner. There is a small hole in the chain tensioner to insert a 2mm hex key which will hold the tensioner in a depressed sate.
5. Remove T30 bolt on oil pump sprocket and remove sprocket.
6. Remove 2 - 10mm bolts and 1 - T30 bolt to remove plastic guard on transmission side of pump unit.
7. Remove the 10 - 10mm bolts which hold the pump unit on engine block. These bolts are many different lengths so be careful to mark location of bolts.
8. Pump unit can now be removed.
9. Turn Engine to Top Dead Center using crankshaft bolt.
10. Turn balance shaft sprocket to match Top Dead Center. There is a mark on the balance shaft sprocket which you align with a hole at the top of the pump unit then insert a 4mm hex key through the tooth of the sprocket into this hole. This will hold the balance shafts at TDC while you install the pump unit.
11. Installation is reverse. It is recommended to replace the 10 bolts which hold the unit to the engine block as they are stretch bolts not meant to be reused.
I've never taken the oil pump off myself. Just had a search, doesn't seem that hard.
To be honest mate if you've already had the death rattle I would just swap the engine out. Check the turbo out for shaft play if you've lost oil pressure the turbo feed is the first feed off the filter so that'll be first to lose pressure.
There is a guide here.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7046630-...
1. Drain oil and remove filter
2. Remove oil pan
3. Remove the chain guard cover in front of the chain and sprockets. There are three tabs on it and just pulls straight off.
4. Slide screwdriver up the side of the chain by the oil pump sprocket in order to depress the chain tensioner. There is a small hole in the chain tensioner to insert a 2mm hex key which will hold the tensioner in a depressed sate.
5. Remove T30 bolt on oil pump sprocket and remove sprocket.
6. Remove 2 - 10mm bolts and 1 - T30 bolt to remove plastic guard on transmission side of pump unit.
7. Remove the 10 - 10mm bolts which hold the pump unit on engine block. These bolts are many different lengths so be careful to mark location of bolts.
8. Pump unit can now be removed.
9. Turn Engine to Top Dead Center using crankshaft bolt.
10. Turn balance shaft sprocket to match Top Dead Center. There is a mark on the balance shaft sprocket which you align with a hole at the top of the pump unit then insert a 4mm hex key through the tooth of the sprocket into this hole. This will hold the balance shafts at TDC while you install the pump unit.
11. Installation is reverse. It is recommended to replace the 10 bolts which hold the unit to the engine block as they are stretch bolts not meant to be reused.
Yeah I think youre right.
Thanks for the guide though, appreciated. I mean I think I might get away with just going to step 3 and removing the cover and looking at it.
I've joined tfsi tuning fb page. waiting to be accepted then I will post a wanted add. Would like a k04 byd I think. CDL are awd aren't they?
Thanks for the guide though, appreciated. I mean I think I might get away with just going to step 3 and removing the cover and looking at it.
I've joined tfsi tuning fb page. waiting to be accepted then I will post a wanted add. Would like a k04 byd I think. CDL are awd aren't they?
Gassing Station | Audi, Seat, Skoda & VW | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff