No Start this AM - quick troubleshooting advice...

[zacherynuk]

Hi,

Hopped in the car this morning to take it for the MOT... Fuel pump pumps, but when I turn the key to start... nothing happens.
Battery reads 12.0 with ignition on - but trickle charger said it's flat - so I left it trickling for 7 hours now, trickle charger still says empty, but lights come on ok... they did this AM too.

Now then, lights on, no obvious solenoid click and lights don't dim - knackered switch or fuse perhaps ?

Car is parked tight to left hand wall so not been able to root around in battery bay yet - will need some pushing assistance.

I have the hot start kit installed - if that makes any difference on troubleshooting...

Cheers - sorry to ask for such very basic advice

Edit deffo not battery - jump didn't help.

Edited by zacherynuk on Monday 29th February 16:55

[Richard 858]

If the fuel pump is definitely priming it sounds like the same problem I'm currently experiencing, intermittently. Likely to be immobiliser to starter circuit, try using the stick/slot method of deactivating immobiliser rather than remote fob, then start as per normal, it might work.

[zacherynuk]

Cheers yeah - tried that after waiting for red light to come back... I am guessing lock barrel or a relay in the battery compartment... struggling to work out how immobiliser works - normally if deactivated (Activated?) I wouldn't even get fuel pump... perhaps multiple relays - bible is no help.

[Richard 858]

As I understand it the alarm unit and immobiliser are separate and the circuits to starter and fuel pump are independent, sort of. Can't say too much on the forum for obvious reasons but if you search the problem I'm sure you'll get some ideas.

[ChimpOnGas]

zacherynuk said:

Cheers yeah - tried that after waiting for red light to come back... I am guessing lock barrel or a relay in the battery compartment... struggling to work out how immobiliser works - normally if deactivated (Activated?) I wouldn't even get fuel pump... perhaps multiple relays - bible is no help.

You can easily test the immobiliser theory.

1. Loosen the front driver's side wheel nuts

2. Put your jack under front corner of the outrigger on the drivers side

3. Jack as high as you can go

4. Remove the front wheel

5. Support the car with an axle stand on the main chassis rail you can get to from the drivers side

6. Once you're confident the car is safely supported climb under the car with your test meter

7. Find the starter motor and remove the wire attached with a spade connector to the starter solenoid

8. Stick your red positive multi meter probe in the female spade terminal you've just removed from the solenoid and find a good earth for the black probe

9. Get someone to disengage the immobiliser and attempt to start the car, you should see 12.5v at your multi meter

10. If not you've found your problem and you need to follow the next three steps steps (11, 12 & 13)

11. Remove the plastic steering wheel cowl and find the terminal on the ignition switch that goes live when you turn the key to the sprung start position

12. Make up a length of wire long enough to go from the sprung start position on the ignition switch, all the way down to the starter solenoid

13. Connect your wire at both ends, disengage your immobiliser as normal, listen for the fuel pump to run for three second and try to start the engine

Follow steps 1-10 to prove or disprove if you have the very common immobiliser fault these cars frequently suffer from, and what is often incorrectly referred to as the "Hot Start" problem. The last three steps (11, 12 & 13) are a down and dirty immobiliser bypass that will quickly get you back on the road.

If you discover all the above solves your no start problem you can PM me for a more permanent fix, but to be honest if you neatly rout your wire through the bulkhead and keep it well away from the hot exhaust manifolds to can consider it a semi permanent fix in itself.

Good luck

[zacherynuk]

Cheers! So the solenoid is activated direct from the barrel - guessing there a switch in the solenoid which then activates the motor itself direct to the battery ?

I'll have a play with this! Pity I have just moved to a smaller house with no garage, tools are stowed all over the shop and it's gonna be pissing it down for next few days. Grrr.

[bsdnazz]

One type of immobiliser failure can produce this effect. The immobiliser has separate circuits for the fuel pump and the starter motor and the starter motor one can fail first.

When I had this problem I found that a few hard thumps on the underside of the passenger dashboard while holding the key in the start position was enough to get the engine started.

I finally solved the problem by getting Carl Baker ( http://www.tvruk.tv/ ) to replace the immobiliser.

[Loubaruch]

If your foot-well loom wiring is the same as a Griffith then there is a much quicker fix to bypass the immobiliser without clambering under the car.

Mail me for an immobiliser schematic

[zacherynuk]

Sorted!

Had a root around the battery area, first thing I check was the Hot Starter Mod I put in - sure enough 20A fuse blown, replaced that and purring like a kitty again. Now to ponder why that popped... maybe just 'cos it was minus 3 yesterday morning.

[ChimpOnGas]

zacherynuk said:

Sorted!

Had a root around the battery area, first thing I check was the Hot Starter Mod I put in - sure enough 20A fuse blown, replaced that and purring like a kitty again. Now to ponder why that popped... maybe just 'cos it was minus 3 yesterday morning.

Firstly, great news

Secondly, the contacts on the little inadequate relay burred inside your immobiliser had probably momentarily welded themselves together, and just long enough to blow the fuse.

I would seriously consider resolving the rout cause, and before this issue returns while you're away from home one cold dark night.

Your options are to bypass the immobiliser or replace it altogether, doing nothing and hoping the problem goes away is not an option I would recommend.

Dave.