Transmission noise.........
Discussion
My car emits a whining noise when stationary in neutral with the clutch pedal up and also when driven in gear.
With the clutch pedal down the noise stops. It seems worse when cold.
How can I tell if this is the clutch release bearing or the gearbox input or layshaft bearings? Big difference in repair cost so want to get it right.
Advice will be appreciated......thanks.
With the clutch pedal down the noise stops. It seems worse when cold.
How can I tell if this is the clutch release bearing or the gearbox input or layshaft bearings? Big difference in repair cost so want to get it right.
Advice will be appreciated......thanks.
Hedge
If it's whining in neutral with the pedal up and not moving then it does sound like the release bearing as everything else in gearbox is stationary. Shouldn't need immediate atention but it won't get better.
Funny it whines when you are moving because the bearing should be stationery at this point....!
I'm about to rebuild a gearbox with a kit from the US. About £200.....!
Pete
If it's whining in neutral with the pedal up and not moving then it does sound like the release bearing as everything else in gearbox is stationary. Shouldn't need immediate atention but it won't get better.
Funny it whines when you are moving because the bearing should be stationery at this point....!
I'm about to rebuild a gearbox with a kit from the US. About £200.....!
Pete
If it's in neutral with the pedal up and the engine running, although there is no load on the release bearing, the 1st motion shaft and its associated bearing are still turning. If the noise ceases when you depress the pedal, chances are that it's your 1st motion (i.e. Input) shaft bearing that's worn.
Cheers
Alistair
Cheers
Alistair
Edited by 737 FLF on Monday 7th March 14:48
Edited by 737 FLF on Monday 7th March 14:54
^^^^^
As you say, the input bearing will be moving in neitral until the clutch is depressed.
Guess the only thing is to take the box out and have a good look at it. Problem is that a recon. box is approximately £500.00 and a release bearing peanuts (relatively). The labour is the same either way so perhaps the sensible thing is to do both at the same time.
Anyway, thanks all for advice.
As you say, the input bearing will be moving in neitral until the clutch is depressed.
Guess the only thing is to take the box out and have a good look at it. Problem is that a recon. box is approximately £500.00 and a release bearing peanuts (relatively). The labour is the same either way so perhaps the sensible thing is to do both at the same time.
Anyway, thanks all for advice.
Input shaft bearing and rear support needle bearing are a piece of piss to change inc the fr seal about 30 minutes with the box out and if you use the same bearing manufacturer no shimming or pre-load setting up its already done 
and no just cos this bearing is noisy does not mean the rest of the box is due an overhaul its a poorly lubed bearing relying on splash, in other words if the car is left for long periods/months etc and you start it up drive it otherwise that bearing will run dry thus shortening its lifespan loads it has a tough life that gets no let up its spinning constantly unless the clutch is disengaged 
and no just cos this bearing is noisy does not mean the rest of the box is due an overhaul its a poorly lubed bearing relying on splash, in other words if the car is left for long periods/months etc and you start it up drive it otherwise that bearing will run dry thus shortening its lifespan loads it has a tough life that gets no let up its spinning constantly unless the clutch is disengaged 
Hedgehopper said:
^^^^^^^^^^^
That sounds interesting. Where/what is the rear support needle bearing?
On the TVR BW/Tremec T5 its the WC version so ignore the separate needles/pins in this shot ours are a caged pin/needle roller bearing That sounds interesting. Where/what is the rear support needle bearing?
that shot is non WC the cheaper variety 
Both taper front and needle rear in shot ........... 
Sardonicus said:
Input shaft bearing and rear support needle bearing are a piece of piss to change inc the fr seal about 30 minutes with the box out and if you use the same bearing manufacturer no shimming or pre-load setting up its already done and no just cos this bearing is noisy does not mean the rest of the box is due an overhaul its a poorly lubed bearing relying on splash, in other words if the car is left for long periods/months etc and you start it up drive it otherwise that bearing will run dry thus shortening its lifespan loads it has a tough life that gets no let up its spinning constantly unless the clutch is disengaged
Have a look on Youtube, there is plenty of stuff on rebuilding the Tremec T5 Worldclass and no just cos this bearing is noisy does not mean the rest of the box is due an overhaul its a poorly lubed bearing relying on splash, in other words if the car is left for long periods/months etc and you start it up drive it otherwise that bearing will run dry thus shortening its lifespan loads it has a tough life that gets no let up its spinning constantly unless the clutch is disengaged https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XREsRG9Y1mU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mR8LetFQSoc
Paul Cangialosi seems to be the man. I bought my rebuild kit from him, he was very helpful. If I'm going to have a go, there's no reason why anyone else can't, I reckon you just have to be logical in how you approach it. Pete
Pete Mac said:
Have a look on Youtube, there is plenty of stuff on rebuilding the Tremec T5 Worldclass
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XREsRG9Y1mU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mR8LetFQSoc
Paul Cangialosi seems to be the man. I bought my rebuild kit from him, he was very helpful. If I'm going to have a go, there's no reason why anyone else can't, I reckon you just have to be logical in how you approach it. Pete
Thanks Pete, already done mine through piece of mind but now I want to bung on the T10 rear housing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XREsRG9Y1mU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mR8LetFQSoc
Paul Cangialosi seems to be the man. I bought my rebuild kit from him, he was very helpful. If I'm going to have a go, there's no reason why anyone else can't, I reckon you just have to be logical in how you approach it. Pete
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