Steering UJ Bolt Sizes?
Discussion
All are M8x40, although the UJs have two different shaft diameters the casting thickness is the same both ends. Ideally use M8x50 and cut off 10 mm as this gives a longer shank. I was once told that UJ bolt shanks should ideally be long enough to extend fully past the shaft to avoid any chance of the bolt thread hanging up on the shaft splines and subsequently coming loose. Also make sure they are done up really tight and that the shaft is as far into the bottom one as possible to prevent any movement.
I didn't think I could get good enough access for an internally wrenching head so stuck with the normal head. I had to swap out one of the joints as i think it had slightly flared through play and just wouldn't tighten and i then stripped a bolt putting the new one in. But finally after about 12 months of playing i have the steering working properly.
I've been going through similar pain with UJ's lately. I've concluded the steering shaft splines must have degraded over time, which ties in with a thread I read somewhere on here suggesting a new shaft will likely give a much better fit. I've got one of order so will report back if it helps tighten things up without the need for high torque's.
GT6k said:
Paul
Looking at the upper joint on yours it is much further out from the bodywork than mine. I can barely get a ring spanner onto the nut on the top fixing. Is there a way to move the column shaft lower so it protrudes more ?
I don't think so.Looking at the upper joint on yours it is much further out from the bodywork than mine. I can barely get a ring spanner onto the nut on the top fixing. Is there a way to move the column shaft lower so it protrudes more ?
This is what the other end looks like
I have added the cable tie because the nylon collet kept jumping out, leaving the shaft unlocated and with the steering hub rubbing against the binnacle. With the collet in place there is nowhere for the shaft to go, it is firmly located unless you tap the other end towards the cabin, which you may do as you try to fit the UJ.
GT6k said:
But the top half of the steering column slides in the bottom half as the column is length adjustable. There is something else which keeps the bottom half in position in the bottom bearing.
Good point!Can't help you there then, other than to say be careful when moving the shaft because you risk damaging the optical indicator cancelling system.
After following this thread I ordered up some bolts and replaced the existing ones last night.
I could undo the existing ones with barely any effort at all. What came out were 8.8 grade, so in went 12.9 and I lent on them as per the 'just before they snap' advice.
So, I think it is prudent to suggest to you all that you check the steering UJ bolts for tightness. It will no doubt help eliminate any play in this area and in the extreme it will save spline wear and potential failure.
Ta
Ian
I could undo the existing ones with barely any effort at all. What came out were 8.8 grade, so in went 12.9 and I lent on them as per the 'just before they snap' advice.
So, I think it is prudent to suggest to you all that you check the steering UJ bolts for tightness. It will no doubt help eliminate any play in this area and in the extreme it will save spline wear and potential failure.
Ta
Ian
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