Using a DTI without removing heads?
Discussion
Any particular type?
I was looking at this but what would I use to extend it through the spark plug hole?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dial-test-indicator-DTI-...
Cheers
MPO
Are you trying to determine TDC? if so, old spark plug, knock the insulation out of it drill it (if my memory serves me correctly!!) 10.5 mm and tap it to 12mm, screw in long bolt with lock nut on it, sparkplug body can screw into head, the long bolt can then carefully be pulled down to the top of the piston when at TDC, you will be able to feel the piston touch the bolt and carefully you can adjust the bolt in or out to match TDC
Hope this is of use
Rich
Hope this is of use
Rich
^ This. It's called 'positive stop'. The spark plug extension will stop the piston reaching tdc on the clockwise up stroke at x crankshaft degrees. Next, reverse the crankshaft rotation and raise the piston towards tdc until it again hits the plug stop. TDC will be the crankshaft measurement in between the two readings.
Twistygit said:
Hi, I to am starting this job shortly and was wondering also on what tools and where to get them. Suppose eBay is ok for DTI's is it? Do you need 1 or 2? And what about protractor some say ordinary protractor is fine and drill a hole in it, is this what most do?
I'm using a modified Kent Cams timing disc which is 170mm diameter.The black bit in the middle is Glass fibre but could be any hard material. It has been turned so there is a lip for the disc to register on. The two screws hold the disc but allow it to rotate on the GF the thumb screw locks the disc.
The reason for this mod is that the disc has to be secured to the crank sufficiently that the crank bolt does not come undone when you try and wind the engine backwards. When you have used the deadstop to find TDC you want to realign the disc to TDC but without this modification it is almost impossible to undo the crank bolt without moving the crank and upsetting your carefully found true TDC.
You will also see the note on the disc about using a spacer. This spacer is smaller diameter than the end of the crank and holds the disc further away from the crank end so that during timing the cam you may want to slide the crank gear off the keyway and rotate it to a different keyway which you can do without disturbing the timing disc.
Be careful what you choose as your protractor as the amount you need to tighten the crank bolt will crush some plastics.
One DTI will do the job. get a plunger type not a lever type.
Steve
Real Steel sell a 11" Moroso timing wheel for sensible money unless you want something like this
nice bit of long lasting kit to see you out 
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-4791-1/...
nice bit of long lasting kit to see you out 
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-4791-1/...
A big disc is way better for accuracy but a pain in the butt if trying to time in a cam with the engine still in the car.
Even with the engine (RV8) on a stand it makes life difficult because the cam is so close to the crank so the marks on the cam pulley are hidden behind the disc.
Steve
Even with the engine (RV8) on a stand it makes life difficult because the cam is so close to the crank so the marks on the cam pulley are hidden behind the disc.
Steve
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