Gear linkage bushes etc - bits that wear

[Pupp]

Got some time next week so will be doing the clutch - anyone know the part numbers for the bush(es) and other bits on the T5 gear linkage that commonly wear/need replacing? May as well whistle up and do whilst it's in bits

[ChimpOnGas]

I recommend simply binning the TVR linkage altogether!

TVR did just that from around 2000 on

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=149...

I did it a couple of months ago and would never go back

[Sardonicus]

Agree with above Gary but if your staying with yours then definitely change the bush and pivot ball the shims and bolt centre bush seem to wear well so the former is all I can suggest here bottom of page collar,ball,circlip http://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/by-model/chimaera/b...

[Pupp]

Thanks - I'm sticking with it for now but am trying to source a spare box to rebuild, which will include the tail housing mod.

Something that puzzles me slightly is the apparent necessity to undo the 13mm nyloc on the bellhousing end of the linkage - does the sliding tube of the linkage not just pull off the captive shaft once the two lever pivots are removed (or is the wriggle room insufficient to get it free)?

[phazed]

You can pull the sliding rod off and leave the shaft bolted to the bell housing.

[Pupp]

Thanks Peter - so why is so much fuss made about the nut being difficult to undo, if it does not need to be undone?

[phazed]

Pupp said:

Thanks Peter - so why is so much fuss made about the nut being difficult to undo, if it does not need to be undone?

You have to remove the rod after you have bent it when fitting the engine and box as one unit as the rod goes over a chassis member and is easily bent!

Been there, seen it, done that

[Pupp]

Another Q - you can tell I'm over-thinking this...

With the gear box off, does the engine sit happily enough on its mounts or does it need supporting front or rear to prevent it twisting?

[Sardonicus]

Pupp said:

Another Q - you can tell I'm over-thinking this...

With the gear box off, does the engine sit happily enough on its mounts or does it need supporting front or rear to prevent it twisting?

2 bits of cardboard between number 7 & 8 exhaust headers and chassis tubes and the engine tilts back no additional support needed

[Pupp]

Right - assuming the bell housing is on with clutch fork and pivot installed, what's the best approach to getting the gearbox and release bearing/carrier back in as painlessly as possible... or is it better to install the fork through the access hole after the box is back on (that's got to be tight)?

[Sardonicus]

Pupp said:

Right - assuming the bell housing is on with clutch fork and pivot installed, what's the best approach to getting the gearbox and release bearing/carrier back in as painlessly as possible... or is it better to install the fork through the access hole after the box is back on (that's got to be tight)?

I assemble everything in the BH inc slave cylinder push-rod etc then slide the box through the release carrier and into the driven plate and bolt up

[Pupp]

Cheers - will adopt this tack having looked more closely at the slipper pad arrangement; I was fully expecting the carrier to be less positively located and likely to drop into oblivion at the merest joggle when introducing the 'box...

BTW, anyone needing the full set of linkage packing washers and bushes, the cost is approx. £42 from the only stockist (6 nylon parts of minimal construction). Pound for pound, more expensive than gold