Thoughts on suspension...
Discussion
Hi all, just spent the last three very long, cold days fitting new suspension on the Cerb and have some interesting points..... First of all it seems that on the stock suspension (97 4.2) the rear is much firmer in both spring rate and damping than the front... how can this be when it is front-engined?!?! Also, since the recommended upgrade rates for nitrons are 400lb front, 325lb rear - this is directly opposite to stock settings... confusing..... Also after fitting 450lb front and 325 rear on NTX dampers, the cars rear was on the floor and the nose was poking through the roof!! As a result I have ordered 375lb rear with a few more inches to allow preloading, and have had to order 2" helpers on the front to allow the car to settle to normal height - I don't remember reading about anyone using helpers with nitrons, but I can't see any other safe way of getting the car to normal height with 450lb fronts........ someone please tell be I'm missing something...... very confused!!!!
Yeah, I know Joolz is the man, but since I have a double garage, a week off work and not much else to do......... But since I get my Cerb serviced with Joolz I'm sure he'll have his work cut out un-doing all my mistakes 
I do intend to get the suspension geometry properly set up when the car is roadworthy, just was a bit surprised to find the rear bias on stock suspension, and the fact the nose was SO high with 450lb springs.... I've worked on all of my cars so far, and find it a lot of fun learning how they work - The Cerb is a very simple car really but since it can go so very fast indeed there is no room for bodges. I find it hard to imagine how all of you out there manage to run a TVR without a garage to play around fixing all of those endless niggles 
I do intend to get the suspension geometry properly set up when the car is roadworthy, just was a bit surprised to find the rear bias on stock suspension, and the fact the nose was SO high with 450lb springs.... I've worked on all of my cars so far, and find it a lot of fun learning how they work - The Cerb is a very simple car really but since it can go so very fast indeed there is no room for bodges. I find it hard to imagine how all of you out there manage to run a TVR without a garage to play around fixing all of those endless niggles 
In reply to your original post & as far as my very limited knowledge of suspension goes: I thought one needs the end farthest from the most weight to have the stiffest setting so when you corner the light end digs in harder & gets better traction, thus evening out traction between front & rear. As in a 911 or dare I say Beetle having a much harder front end to even out the lardy rear.
Of course with the Cerb supposedly having near 50/50 distribution this doesn’t quite follow, oh well….
Of course with the Cerb supposedly having near 50/50 distribution this doesn’t quite follow, oh well….
I bet someone says 'nah you dont have to do that' but here goes;
Disconnect the Battery.
Exhausts off, including cats.
Remove the propshaft, need to remove the heat sheild first.
Undo aft gearbox mount
Remove the gear leaver, by undoing the four bolts in the top of the gearbox.
Remove the harness for the reverse switch, just pulls off.
Undo the bolts that hold the gearbox to the bell housing.
Pull gearbox aft and leave on the car. You will lose some ATF Fluid to have some to top up with. Sounds easy but is a pain in the arse.
Undo the bell housing bolts.
Remove the starter cables.
Remove the Aeroquip hoses for the pressure and bleed to the Clutch Slave.
Remove the bell housing from the car and place on a bench.
Undo the four counter sunk fasteners and remove the slave cylinder from bell housing.
Replace the seals after a thorough inspection and clean of the whole bell housing, only use the seals as supplied by Joolz. If the cylindeer has any scoring its scrap get a new one £190 from Joolz.
Change the release bearing, from a TR6.
Re assemble in reverse order, bleed and enjoy!
Remember to service the prop-shaft while you are there and check the wear on the clutch.
Nick
Disconnect the Battery.
Exhausts off, including cats.
Remove the propshaft, need to remove the heat sheild first.
Undo aft gearbox mount
Remove the gear leaver, by undoing the four bolts in the top of the gearbox.
Remove the harness for the reverse switch, just pulls off.
Undo the bolts that hold the gearbox to the bell housing.
Pull gearbox aft and leave on the car. You will lose some ATF Fluid to have some to top up with. Sounds easy but is a pain in the arse.
Undo the bell housing bolts.
Remove the starter cables.
Remove the Aeroquip hoses for the pressure and bleed to the Clutch Slave.
Remove the bell housing from the car and place on a bench.
Undo the four counter sunk fasteners and remove the slave cylinder from bell housing.
Replace the seals after a thorough inspection and clean of the whole bell housing, only use the seals as supplied by Joolz. If the cylindeer has any scoring its scrap get a new one £190 from Joolz.
Change the release bearing, from a TR6.
Re assemble in reverse order, bleed and enjoy!
Remember to service the prop-shaft while you are there and check the wear on the clutch.
Nick
Sorry mate, I just f^&%king realised I meant the master!!! Too much beer!! 
Joolz did my slave on the last service, but when I was tinkering in the footwell today I noticed a small drop of red fluid building on the master, so am assuming it is weeping.... Just as well as I doubt my 2 jacks and 4 axles stands would be sufficient for the work you desribe.... 
Now a great thread for someone adventurous enough to change the slave seals though.......Extra 300 Driver said:
...... Remember to service the prop-shaft while you are there and check the wear on the clutch.
Blimy you're brave, I thought I was taking out everything up to the box, then again I've only got two axle stands, so it’s a bit of a squeeze past the cats…
I did spy the grease nips on the prop shaft – what type of grease should I use for them?
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