Recommendations for top shelf climbing wheels
Discussion
In circumstances like this you really do need to speak to a wheel builder who well give you advice based on your weight and riding style. Spoke count, lacing pattern and hub flange length well probably be things to consider
If you want off the shelf, tubular campag bora 35s are worth a look and used throughout the pro peloton on the tough mountain days.
If you want off the shelf, tubular campag bora 35s are worth a look and used throughout the pro peloton on the tough mountain days.
Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 24th March 20:07
American Classic Magnesium wheels are 1220g and would make a nice climbing set.
Maybe a custom set? Tune hubs, 22 mm tubular rims and laser spokes. Should be ~1100g.
But if you want something a bit more all-round, then I would recommend the American Classic Argent wheels. 1370g and semi-aero with plenty of stiffness.
Maybe a custom set? Tune hubs, 22 mm tubular rims and laser spokes. Should be ~1100g.
But if you want something a bit more all-round, then I would recommend the American Classic Argent wheels. 1370g and semi-aero with plenty of stiffness.
LOL some bloke in a shed, he's not casting the rims himself, he is using off the shelf rims, spokes and hubs, all better likely for the money than the s
te you will get in a factory set. The tech you mention is mostly marketing beyond the obvious differences of deep/shallow 1kg/2kg etc.
Be interesting to know what you think spending £1400 on wheels is going to achieve though? Don't get me wrong, I've spent probably getting on for £5k on wheels, but its only because I have that I know now the difference between a half decent set and the best set is bugger all. And these days even my £100 Fulcrum 7's have surpassed expectation and ride just as well as the £400 kysrium elites I had.
te you will get in a factory set. The tech you mention is mostly marketing beyond the obvious differences of deep/shallow 1kg/2kg etc.Be interesting to know what you think spending £1400 on wheels is going to achieve though? Don't get me wrong, I've spent probably getting on for £5k on wheels, but its only because I have that I know now the difference between a half decent set and the best set is bugger all. And these days even my £100 Fulcrum 7's have surpassed expectation and ride just as well as the £400 kysrium elites I had.
The pros use tubs though which are much more reliable in the braking department than carbon clinchers so if you're set on Boras then get tubs, but I'm guessing you want clinchers?
If it's Boras you want then you be better off with tubs, aero gain, weight saving and more reliable braking than the clincher version.
What goes up must come down and a decent braking surface is going to help you more than a bit of shaved weight.
As Okgo alludes too, 'climbing wheels' will make naff all difference, you're talking a pound or so between the lightest carbon tubs and a decent middling pair of aluminium clinchers.
I bet you could save near on the same weight for a fraction of the price with some decent tyres (-100g), supersonic tubes (-100g) and some ti/carbon skewers (-100g).
Fulcrum Racing Zero always get recommended on similar threads on BR etc.
If it's Boras you want then you be better off with tubs, aero gain, weight saving and more reliable braking than the clincher version.
What goes up must come down and a decent braking surface is going to help you more than a bit of shaved weight.
As Okgo alludes too, 'climbing wheels' will make naff all difference, you're talking a pound or so between the lightest carbon tubs and a decent middling pair of aluminium clinchers.
I bet you could save near on the same weight for a fraction of the price with some decent tyres (-100g), supersonic tubes (-100g) and some ti/carbon skewers (-100g).
Fulcrum Racing Zero always get recommended on similar threads on BR etc.
Raven Flyer said:
Hand builds just don't do it for me. Some bloke in a shed can't match the tech depts of the major wheel companies.
okgo said:
LOL some bloke in a shed, he's not casting the rims himself, he is using off the shelf rims, spokes and hubs, all better likely for the money than the ste you will get in a factory set. The tech you mention is mostly marketing beyond the obvious differences of deep/shallow 1kg/2kg etc.
Be interesting to know what you think spending £1400 on wheels is going to achieve though? Don't get me wrong, I've spent probably getting on for £5k on wheels, but its only because I have that I know now the difference between a half decent set and the best set is bugger all. And these days even my £100 Fulcrum 7's have surpassed expectation and ride just as well as the £400 kysrium elites I had.
My guess is he just wants some very expensive wheels for a trip to the alps or similar, which is fine. The 'bloke in the shed' comment says it all really. The idea of hand builts is they can take the best component for each individual part and assemble a wheel that is perfectly suited for your requirements. Also you would be able to easily replace parts that wear or break. te you will get in a factory set. The tech you mention is mostly marketing beyond the obvious differences of deep/shallow 1kg/2kg etc.Be interesting to know what you think spending £1400 on wheels is going to achieve though? Don't get me wrong, I've spent probably getting on for £5k on wheels, but its only because I have that I know now the difference between a half decent set and the best set is bugger all. And these days even my £100 Fulcrum 7's have surpassed expectation and ride just as well as the £400 kysrium elites I had.
I've been running RS80s for a few years now and I've also tried Dura-Ace C35s and some Fulcrum Zeros (I think) and I really don't think I could tell the difference between them.
bakerstreet said:
My guess is he just wants some very expensive wheels for a trip to the alps or similar, which is fine. The 'bloke in the shed' comment says it all really. The idea of hand builts is they can take the best component for each individual part and assemble a wheel that is perfectly suited for your requirements. Also you would be able to easily replace parts that wear or break.
I've been running RS80s for a few years now and I've also tried Dura-Ace C35s and some Fulcrum Zeros (I think) and I really don't think I could tell the difference between them.
Pretty good guess! We've bought a place in the Alps and I'm putting a bike out there.I've been running RS80s for a few years now and I've also tried Dura-Ace C35s and some Fulcrum Zeros (I think) and I really don't think I could tell the difference between them.
202s won the day.
If you are a wheel builder, apologies for the 'bloke in a shed' comment, I'm sure you don't all work in sheds.
My aversion comes from friends that have come home with hand builts that seem to have 100 spokes and are 1kg heavier than the target they started the purchasing conversation with. Agreed they will last forever (and if they don't bits can be replaced), but I'm after something that a manufacturer has tried to push the boundaries with, something a bit special.
In 15,000+ miles, I have never broken anything on a wheel.
Could have at least got some Enve's 
Rouleur said:
Just lose some weight...
Whilst this is the right answer and what you should do instead of buying nice wheels and frames etc etc, some of us like the good stuff. I still don't really know if my RS80s make me any faster, but the bike rode much better with them fitted compared to the standard build wheels. Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff