Engine Mounts

[LawrieS]

For my sins I have these lined up for tomorrow, just wondering which way round the cups should go? Should the base of the cups point toward the engine or the chassis?

I know it's going to be fiddly, I have the flexi head ratchet spanner, the manifolds are off, is it just a case of supporting the engine, removing the old ones, jack it up a bit, swear, fiddle the new ones in, bolt it back up? Any other tips?

Ok to replace the nuts with stainless?



Thanks
Lawrie

[phillpot]

Be it right or wrong I fitted mine closed end upwards, and used stainless nylocs.

[RayTVR]

First one I did took me about 8 hours. Other side done in just over an hour. It sounds like a pain but this is so much easier having removed the ARB.

And a good flexi-ratchet..

[LawrieS]

Thanks for the help so far, definitely recommend taking the ARB out.

The old ones are out and new ones in, just the fun part of bolting everything back together.

Am I right to assume the engine should be level when checked across the plenum?

[glenrobbo]

LawrieS said:

The old ones are out and new ones in, just the fun part of bolting everything back together.

Am I right to assume the engine should be level when checked across the plenum?

Well done Lawrie.

Yes, it's best to get the engine level in the mountings, so that the exhaust downpipes are level, the sump is equally spaced from the arb on both sides,the oil level is... err.....level and the plenum to bonnet clearance is also equal. ( Unless you're planning to do a lot of high g-force running on banked ovals, in which case different criteria apply.

[LawrieS]

Thanks Glen, what I really meant is, is the plenum a suitable place to check for level, eg take a reading from one off the cross members and ensure the reading on the plenum matches

Any ideas for torque settings? Obviously not going to get it onto all but nice to have an idea.

Thanks

[mk1fan]

I'm going to invert the cups this time around and see if it makes a difference. Should atleast give a small inporvement in heat protection - although the ceramic coating will be the main improvement there.

I'm going to do it by eye. I'll get the lower bolts in first, then the uppers. I'm going to use nylocs and threadlock to make getting the lower nuts on easier - ie only a washer and a nut, not a washer, split washer and a nut. I'll also trim the bolt a bot too. I'll then square the engine up before nipping the nuts up. I'm hoping it'll be easier to do with the top of the engine off - a considerable weight saving.

As for torque settings, they need to be tight but clearly you can only get so much on them due to their location and size. As a guide I'd say tight enough they don't move.

[glenrobbo]

Yep, do it by eye.

I don't think TVR used vernier spirit levels on the production line at the factory.

I think you'll struggle to get a torque wrench in there, so just one & a half white knuckles on the spanner should be enough. You don't want to go mad & shear the studs off.

[v8s4me]

mk1fan said:

.... As a guide I'd say tight enough they don't move.

Having stripped a thread on a suspension bolt this winter I'd say leave the torque wrench in the drawer. Tight enough will do if you're using nylocks. They ain't going anywhere are they?

[mk1fan]

Sorry I meant the mount not move not the nut. You're right though, with a nyloc they're unlikely to shift. I would still use a split / lock washer on the top one - ie the one next to the engine and just below the exhaust manifold.

I've spied something on ebay that might be worth a try. Happy to reveal after testing on a couple of trackdays and the S Club Tour.

[LawrieS]

v8s4me said:

Having stripped a thread on a suspension bolt this winter I'd say leave the torque wrench in the drawer. Tight enough will do if you're using nylocks. They ain't going anywhere are they?

I hope not, but the 'feel' comes with experience I suppose, I prefer the torque wrench, I'm usually surprised how the recommended 'tightness' feels either loose or tight compared to what I would guess at.

mk1fan said:

I'm going to invert the cups this time around and see if it makes a difference. Should atleast give a small inporvement in heat protection - although the ceramic coating will be the main improvement there.

I'm going to do it by eye. I'll get the lower bolts in first, then the uppers. I'm going to use nylocs and threadlock to make getting the lower nuts on easier - ie only a washer and a nut, not a washer, split washer and a nut. I'll also trim the bolt a bot too. I'll then square the engine up before nipping the nuts up. I'm hoping it'll be easier to do with the top of the engine off - a considerable weight saving.

As for torque settings, they need to be tight but clearly you can only get so much on them due to their location and size. As a guide I'd say tight enough they don't move.

Judging from your other thread you've had problems? I did the tops up first then the mounts didn't spin when doing up the bottom ones, though neither really had much choice once the weight of the engine was involved. I couldn't get the old ones out without unbolting the brackets from the engine, though didn't want to go mad on jacking the engine up.

glenrobbo said:

Yep, do it by eye.

I don't think TVR used vernier spirit levels on the production line at the factory.

I think you'll struggle to get a torque wrench in there, so just one & a half white knuckles on the spanner should be enough. You don't want to go mad & shear the studs off.

I took a reading off the cross member (which swirl pot mounts to) at 0.9 degrees, my garage floor is similar, reading across the sump was the same, but across plenum was 2.0, it does look about right but I'd be interested to see how others compare.

I found a reading in haynes for 'intermediate' mounts so just matched that at 21nm, was more bothered about brackets to block than the actual mounts.

Plenty of room now below, and a couple of nats whatsits to the bonnet.



Obviously it's been a problem in the past.

Lawrie

Edited to add, who suggested glueing the washers to the nuts for bottom mounts? You have earned one pint point, please redeem at earliest possibility

Edited by LawrieS on Wednesday 30th March 20:46

Edited by LawrieS on Wednesday 30th March 20:52

[RayTVR]

That would be me then!

RayTVR said:

Finally did the other (n/s)

I' m puzzled why after spending the best part of a weekend on the other one, I was done well inside an hour!

Two hints.

Take the ARB off Six easy nuts will save a lot of time
Glue the nuts to the washers before refitting- so much easier.

And finally got the new drop links done as well.

Fine way for a man to start his birthday. Now off for lobster and beer.

And maybe some rum..

[LawrieS]

Please redeem during euro tour, Mrs T can have the ARB removal point

[mk1fan]

The problem I had was because the engine was twisted and not square to both mounts. This tme around I'll square the engine to the mounts - not the chassis. The support cups worked too well and stopped the mount deforming to compensate.

It will be interesting to see photos of how you get the torque wrench on the nuts.

[LawrieS]

LawrieS said:

Plenty of room now below, and a couple of nats whatsits to the bonnet.

So I thought...

[magpies]

who suggested glueing the washers to the nuts for bottom mounts?

I quite often use a little masking tape to keep the washers in place - sometimes put masking tape across the spanner (especially when using a ratchet one) to hold the nut in it while engaging the nut on the thread.