Low clutch bite point after winter lay-up
Discussion
So after keeping the Griff 500 tucked away for winter decided to wake it up a day or so ago.
I noticed the clutch bite point is low, I don't recall it being like that last season.
So I checked the hydraulics for leaks and gave it a good bleed, but its no better.
the clutch plate has only done about 5k miles and I don't track day it, so I doubt its the plate itself.
given the hydraulics components are getting on a bit, tempted to replace them I guess. I seem to recall the master is a custom TVR part according to the bible isn't it ?
Any ideas as to next steps.
thanks
Is there a pedal return spring on a TVR if so is it still in place?
You could try letting the pedal fly back unrestrained from the down position five or six times in quick succession. Could be the seal bobbin not returning to it's correct position and not getting a full charge of fluid.
Worth a try.

You could try letting the pedal fly back unrestrained from the down position five or six times in quick succession. Could be the seal bobbin not returning to it's correct position and not getting a full charge of fluid.
Worth a try.

Your problems most definately sound fluid related.
Master cylinder is nothing special just a Girling 0.70". Used on many vehicles.
You can get a new seal kit for them part No. Girling SP2102
Slave cylinders will prob be a load cheaper from landrover places than TVR places. Got mine from Ebay about £12. Pretty sure the slaves are the same for the rover box and the t5. Just ebay search lt77 slave cylinder.
Master cylinder is nothing special just a Girling 0.70". Used on many vehicles.
You can get a new seal kit for them part No. Girling SP2102
Slave cylinders will prob be a load cheaper from landrover places than TVR places. Got mine from Ebay about £12. Pretty sure the slaves are the same for the rover box and the t5. Just ebay search lt77 slave cylinder.
> Just ebay search lt77 slave cylinder
well I did that and bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261230972924?_trksid=p20...
however it seems to be wrong on 2 counts. the pipe female thread is the wrong size, and I suspect there is a difference in the throw or reach. when I took the old cylinder off (it was found to be leaking) there appeared to be some pre-load, not related to fluid as I broken the pipe union by then. the new one didn't to this, plus the pipe thread was too small on the slave.
seems like the one on the car is 1 inch, the supplied was less. also the end of the piston where the rod sits on the cylinder is a steep sided dish.
the AP part number is something like 99364 Q403 but hard to read
does all this sound right, or is there something odd here ?
The tvr parts site has 2 cylinders listed but its not clear which might be right.
any help appreciated
Probably got this sorted but I always use Racing Greens parts dept which is now called TVR-parts :
http://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-q0...
Very good service & the correct parts so far. eBay at your peril !
http://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-q0...
Very good service & the correct parts so far. eBay at your peril !
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