Water Pump

[hollychim]

Any tips for water pump change on a 98 chimaera. Thanks

[ClassiChimi]

Drain water,
Remove belt, and pulley wheel,
Remove bolts
Remove pump + gasket.
Thoroughly clean surface where gasket sits,,
New gasket and pump and reverse the process,
Hopefully someone else will confirm and also what's the best gasket sealant to use !!!

[phazed]

I use a smear of Hylomar blue.

[ClassiChimi]

Do you have the correct tool Peter to undue the pulley bolts or do you adapt and overcome if so what's the simple solution?

[phazed]

I use a flat steel bar across 2 bolts, loosen the other 2 and repeat.

[ClassiChimi]

Haha, talk about the bleeding obvious.

[Belle427]

On most other cars ive done they can be loosened off with the belts still in place. (never done a chim though)

[Hedgehopper]

Haven't done the job myself but remember reading that some of the bolts go into the waterjacket and need their threads sealing.

[Sardonicus]

Loosen them with the belt still in place (you wont overcome the serp belts grip) use some ali/nickel anti seize compound on the long bolts when refitting and rock the bolts before removal if said bolts are tight dont just hope and force like Peter says a smear of hylomar etc on the gasket wont do any harm the good ones are happy assembled dry anyway just take your time bleeding making sure the heater control is set to hot (no fan) and that during the heater runs hot and the fans run at least twice before refitting the swirl pot bung I recommend 40/60 coolant mixture 60 being water & preferably soft distilled if you don't in your area for the cost involved I use distilled anyways

[ClassiChimi]

Off the top of my head there's 2/3 longer bolts to remove, I'm thinking they will be the ones into the water jacket, I'd expect some leakage when removing these bolts to confirm.

Thanks for that information Sardonicus, I've got a small leak coming through the weep hole on my pump so I'm also about to replace it.

[ClassiChimi]

My old water pump, you can see the small weep hole and the tell tale sign of staining that confirms it's breached the first seal,
There's a small amount of play in the shaft also.







There's actually three long bolts that need copper sealant when re applying and one long bolt that doesn't, it's pretty obvious which ones need the sealant, nice smear of sealant on faces of pump and mating surface on the block and slowly re bolt up.

Filled water system and used a large funnel wedged into swirl pot and maintained a level of antifreeze mix in funnel whilst filling the system, I have an alley rad with a bleed screw in the top so first just filled up until steady flow out of bleed screw, then nipped up, engine burped and fans came on twice.
Put brass bolt back in swirl pot and ran engine around for 15 mins, steady 80 degrees.
Just need to check expansion bottle when cold.
Heater hot.
Hopefully all the airs out of it but I'll keep my eye on it.

[portzi]

Hi hollychim, well it's a job for a rainy day, make a brew in your favourite mug, get your polishing gear out and some good old fashioned elbow grease.

[ClassiChimi]

I was feeling pleased with myself until I see that,,, lovely work mate

[over_the_hill]

ClassiChimi said:

Haha, talk about the bleeding obvious.

I think the bleeding comes later when you refill the system.

[ClassiChimi]

Are so that's how it works,,

[hollychim]

Thanks for the info all, will do pump on Saturday weather permitting.