Chimaera Ownership
Discussion
Hello, I hope to buy a Chimaera sometime this year. I'd be interested to hear any tips or advice from Chimaera owners about performance and reliability.
Is the 4 litre model quick enough?
Are 1996/7 models OK for reliability?
Feedback from owners would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Burblemania
Is the 4 litre model quick enough?
Are 1996/7 models OK for reliability?
Feedback from owners would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Burblemania
Hi you do just realised you have opened up the floodgates of much taunt by people who have everything larger than the 4.0 car.
Everyone will tell you also buy on condition not age and milage. Check service history and make sure the chassis and outriggers are solid and we'll protected.
Is the 4.0 quick enough? What do you drive already? When I picked mine up I let my Dad have a go and he has a Jag 4.2 XKR and feels my car is not far off the pace so yeah, but I now feel I wanna try a faster one but def don't feel my one is slow. Many say the 450 is the fave, on paper not that much quicker but is more torque. Good luck in your search. 98 or newer is a bit nicer but a good 95 may be a better buy than a shoddy 99 so don't worry too much about year.
Everyone will tell you also buy on condition not age and milage. Check service history and make sure the chassis and outriggers are solid and we'll protected.
Is the 4.0 quick enough? What do you drive already? When I picked mine up I let my Dad have a go and he has a Jag 4.2 XKR and feels my car is not far off the pace so yeah, but I now feel I wanna try a faster one but def don't feel my one is slow. Many say the 450 is the fave, on paper not that much quicker but is more torque. Good luck in your search. 98 or newer is a bit nicer but a good 95 may be a better buy than a shoddy 99 so don't worry too much about year.
Edited by Danattheopticians on Monday 4th April 17:58
Where abouts are you OP ?
A few folks on here can recommend a meet or two to pop along to and get a idea of what's what in Chimaera world
As mentioned above always buy on condition and be prepared for a surprise or two if you are unlucky. Best buys tend to be cars owned by enthusiasts who are happy to spend the money when necessary so have a good look around before you make a commitment. Budget would be a good guide a well as a few people on here will guide you towards cars worth a look at based on knowledge of the car and owner gleaned from various places including here
A few folks on here can recommend a meet or two to pop along to and get a idea of what's what in Chimaera world
As mentioned above always buy on condition and be prepared for a surprise or two if you are unlucky. Best buys tend to be cars owned by enthusiasts who are happy to spend the money when necessary so have a good look around before you make a commitment. Budget would be a good guide a well as a few people on here will guide you towards cars worth a look at based on knowledge of the car and owner gleaned from various places including here
I have a 96 4litre ,Ive had it 6 years now and touch wood apart from the front sections of the outriggers being replced ,it has been very reliable. The RAC have had near on 600 quid out of me but Ive never needed them (jinx). I keep it fully serviced yearly with advisory parts replaced ,like brake pads ,bushes,fuel pipe and wishbones.How fast do you want to go ? its more than fast enough on the road ,140 on the track ,but when your up against 450,500 on track you could do with more power. Oh and Red ones are the fastest. 
I have a 1996 4.0 hc and the chassis/outriggers are fine. With regards to performance I feel the 4.0 is enough for the road i'd also go along with what others say about condition and cars which have had lots of work done are better. I'd buy leaving £1k to spare as you will find niggles etc my niggle was the diff! Doh!
Budget determines a lot, these cars are getting on, some are spectacular and solid, others are not, as said before buy one off an enthusiast who's owned and used it awhile, to buy a car needing re commissioning almost requires thousands if you not careful, best to buy off someone who done the job, sorted any issues and proudly sells the car on as a sorted propersition but expect to pay for that privilege,
Things like after market Ecu upgrades are spectacularly good at eliminating many areas of possible woe on these cars and does look after the engine in a beautifully refined way, cures cold/hot start issues, better mpg, more power, less emissions, but it's all at cost, if you want a car for for years to come and be able to use it daily then these things really add to the Tvr experience but I know from personal experience you'll spend many thousands if you buy a car in need of work.
If I knew what I know now when I embarked on this Tvr roller coaster of a life time I would have done more research and found the best car available and not stop until that car ticks the boxes, it might be two or three grand more than a similar car but if it's being proven with miles under its belt etc then with the right upgrades it's worth every penny,,, the owner and how much he spends says everything and it can make a huge difference.
Just look at cars by owners on here who've built them to fantastic standards, constantly working and looking to make the cars better, we believe, we are blind with faith, good job, but it leads to magnificent cars that the world will love for years to come, our cars are important history items, British brutes the world will likely never see again.
Value them massively.
Things like after market Ecu upgrades are spectacularly good at eliminating many areas of possible woe on these cars and does look after the engine in a beautifully refined way, cures cold/hot start issues, better mpg, more power, less emissions, but it's all at cost, if you want a car for for years to come and be able to use it daily then these things really add to the Tvr experience but I know from personal experience you'll spend many thousands if you buy a car in need of work.
If I knew what I know now when I embarked on this Tvr roller coaster of a life time I would have done more research and found the best car available and not stop until that car ticks the boxes, it might be two or three grand more than a similar car but if it's being proven with miles under its belt etc then with the right upgrades it's worth every penny,,, the owner and how much he spends says everything and it can make a huge difference.
Just look at cars by owners on here who've built them to fantastic standards, constantly working and looking to make the cars better, we believe, we are blind with faith, good job, but it leads to magnificent cars that the world will love for years to come, our cars are important history items, British brutes the world will likely never see again.
Value them massively.
I bought my 400 knowing it needed quite a bit of work but wanted the chance to bring it back to the good times.
If you don't want to be throwing lots of wedge at it then the Chassis condition is critical as is its history so you can see the upkeep is consistent. For me I'd prefer a driven car as I don't think too much sitting about does them any favours certainly not on start-up, so as said before mileage within reason is not the be all and end all.
The visual aspects, paint, interior, hood,wheels etc etc will set you back of course but they are things that you can do as and when or easily budget for in negotiations.
Hmm difficult to say on performance...the 400 is quick and good fun but I think (and I have to say this is purely surmising) that if I had gone a good 450 route I may have been more inclined to stop looking at the classifieds.
If you don't want to be throwing lots of wedge at it then the Chassis condition is critical as is its history so you can see the upkeep is consistent. For me I'd prefer a driven car as I don't think too much sitting about does them any favours certainly not on start-up, so as said before mileage within reason is not the be all and end all.
The visual aspects, paint, interior, hood,wheels etc etc will set you back of course but they are things that you can do as and when or easily budget for in negotiations.
Hmm difficult to say on performance...the 400 is quick and good fun but I think (and I have to say this is purely surmising) that if I had gone a good 450 route I may have been more inclined to stop looking at the classifieds.
Totally agree about buying on condition and history - don't worry too much about mileage - ones that only do a few miles a year can be more troublesome. Nice if the car you are buying is garage stored.
I started with a 400 and now have a 500. A pal of mine did the same and what was surprising is how different two 400s and two 500s felt when driven back-to-back. So, certainly, drive a few to get a better idea of how they might vary.
As for which one. They're all quick but no doubt a well fettled 500 is something special. One of the best investments in my case was driver training, courtesy of RideDrive.
Good luck.
I started with a 400 and now have a 500. A pal of mine did the same and what was surprising is how different two 400s and two 500s felt when driven back-to-back. So, certainly, drive a few to get a better idea of how they might vary.
As for which one. They're all quick but no doubt a well fettled 500 is something special. One of the best investments in my case was driver training, courtesy of RideDrive.
Good luck.
Edited by JimTC on Tuesday 5th April 09:07
Do loads of research. Read over and over again the helpful information on PH. Talk to the TVRCC about the possible pitfalls..........Then see one in the right colour, engine combo for sale on the PH classifieds, drive up to the other end of the country, forget all the advice as soon as you hit the loud pedal on the test drive and buy it there and then without even looking at another.
At least I got 6 years out of the chassis before I had to replace the out riggers.
At least I got 6 years out of the chassis before I had to replace the out riggers.
Hi
I have just gone through this, it took me 2 years to actually decide to buy and then 2 months of looking seriously.
I went for the 5.0l in the end, the power is immense, in fact very hard to use it all on the road, traction control is when the back fishtales !
I know very little about cars, although I did read about everything that could be wrong with the cars and was almost put off, but don’t be there are a lot of scare stories that don’t really apply to these cars anymore.
I looked at one car and even put a deposit down subject to inspection. I was glad I did get it inspected as it would have been a terrible mistake, despite it looking good to me, it was for sale at a non tvr dealer!
It is the best thing I have ever bought, it is an adrenalin rush like no other. Mine is garaged and only goes out in the dry and if the sun is shining, I can’t wait to get out in it, I did spend more than I wanted to get the right one, but justified it as an investment to the wife lol.
Generally everything that people say on here, well maintained examples where everything has been put right should reduce future problems, pay as much as you can afford, and inspect the chassis. I bought from a dealer and got a year’s warranty which adds some peace of mind, not sure I would buy privately unless I had a proper inspection. TVR dealers do seem to be decent bunch that need to keep their reputations, so I don't believe they would sell you a dud, although you will pay extra.
All in all after only 3 months of ownership I would highly recommend it,
I can’t think of a better sounding car on the road, they are a beast of a car that you need to go very careful with especially in the wet. But with the hood down, a V8 gurgling and popping away, the smell of leather it is a wonderful place to be.
I have just gone through this, it took me 2 years to actually decide to buy and then 2 months of looking seriously.
I went for the 5.0l in the end, the power is immense, in fact very hard to use it all on the road, traction control is when the back fishtales !
I know very little about cars, although I did read about everything that could be wrong with the cars and was almost put off, but don’t be there are a lot of scare stories that don’t really apply to these cars anymore.
I looked at one car and even put a deposit down subject to inspection. I was glad I did get it inspected as it would have been a terrible mistake, despite it looking good to me, it was for sale at a non tvr dealer!
It is the best thing I have ever bought, it is an adrenalin rush like no other. Mine is garaged and only goes out in the dry and if the sun is shining, I can’t wait to get out in it, I did spend more than I wanted to get the right one, but justified it as an investment to the wife lol.
Generally everything that people say on here, well maintained examples where everything has been put right should reduce future problems, pay as much as you can afford, and inspect the chassis. I bought from a dealer and got a year’s warranty which adds some peace of mind, not sure I would buy privately unless I had a proper inspection. TVR dealers do seem to be decent bunch that need to keep their reputations, so I don't believe they would sell you a dud, although you will pay extra.
All in all after only 3 months of ownership I would highly recommend it,
I can’t think of a better sounding car on the road, they are a beast of a car that you need to go very careful with especially in the wet. But with the hood down, a V8 gurgling and popping away, the smell of leather it is a wonderful place to be.
Edited by chris_chim5 on Tuesday 5th April 14:57
Serpentine engines have sorted some of the niggles - look for a wide drive belt rather than the old fashioned v belt, I think the serpentine came in around 1995.
Ive owned mine for 18 years now and to be honest its been pretty reliable, no major headaches but dont expect Porsche build quality.
Apart from rust on outriggers mentioned several times here - other problems include speedo transducer fails, cooling leaks - radiators etc, electric windows slow down, suspension bushes, but the old Rover V8 is a pretty well sorted lump. The old Lucas engine management system is crude by todays standards but if its set up OK its pretty good. There are after ,market engine management upgrades replacing the ECU and getting rid of the air flow meter and distributor you may find one with this already done - although watch out for the insurance company, Admiral just declined to insure my car if I fit a mod.
Ive owned mine for 18 years now and to be honest its been pretty reliable, no major headaches but dont expect Porsche build quality.
Apart from rust on outriggers mentioned several times here - other problems include speedo transducer fails, cooling leaks - radiators etc, electric windows slow down, suspension bushes, but the old Rover V8 is a pretty well sorted lump. The old Lucas engine management system is crude by todays standards but if its set up OK its pretty good. There are after ,market engine management upgrades replacing the ECU and getting rid of the air flow meter and distributor you may find one with this already done - although watch out for the insurance company, Admiral just declined to insure my car if I fit a mod.
Had my 400 for nearly 4yrs now. Would I like more power? Yes I would but TBH it's more than quick enough for what I need and on the right roads it will keep up with faster cars because it is so small and nimble.
Many hoons with Lambos and a mate in his 550 proves this, all changes on dual carriageways and fast A roads though.
For me it's all about the smiles and the noise (full Decat).
Drive and look at as many as you can.
Many hoons with Lambos and a mate in his 550 proves this, all changes on dual carriageways and fast A roads though.
For me it's all about the smiles and the noise (full Decat).
Drive and look at as many as you can.
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