Kenlowe electronic thermostat - fans not working
Discussion
HELP ! Hi basically both the fans have stopped working,it's still wired up to the otter switch also, checked fan fuse,fan no1 relay on fuse board,and relay and fuses on electronic thermo, I've arced the otter switch, you can hear the really click but no fans, overuse switch under dash clicks the relay, I'm just totally miffed as to what to check next, hopefully somebody can give me a simple answer as to what I can do next or what could be wrong, cheers folks.
If relay clicks and neither fan moves you'll ideally need a multimeter to test for power leaving the relay and/or getting to the fans, or swap the relay out for a new one if you've no multimeter or test lamp. Is there one connector block in the supply loom for both fans anywhere that may have come loose?
The relay might click but it doesn't mean the contacts are made, it just shows the coil side of the relay is good. As said above, a multi meter is your best option. Check power coming out of the relay and for continuity to the fans. Undertake a voltage drop test across the cables and connectors, it doesn't take a lot of corrosion to stop things from working as they should.
Below is a rough example of a voltage drop test.
Bridging your meter across the battery should show a healthy "system" voltage.
Putting your meter across a length of wire; a switch (in the on position) or a connector, should show 0 volts lost. Anything above 1/2 a volt means there is corrosion/resistance in the wire/switch/connector.
Putting a meter across a load, such as a lamp or motor, should show system (battery) voltage or as near as dammit. If the lamp or motor does not run but there is system voltage across the connectors to the lamp/motor, then the lamp/motor can be suspected as the faulty item.
P.S Put your meter leads on the posts of the item being tested and not the connectors or screws securing the cables to it.
Below is a rough example of a voltage drop test.
Bridging your meter across the battery should show a healthy "system" voltage.
Putting your meter across a length of wire; a switch (in the on position) or a connector, should show 0 volts lost. Anything above 1/2 a volt means there is corrosion/resistance in the wire/switch/connector.
Putting a meter across a load, such as a lamp or motor, should show system (battery) voltage or as near as dammit. If the lamp or motor does not run but there is system voltage across the connectors to the lamp/motor, then the lamp/motor can be suspected as the faulty item.
P.S Put your meter leads on the posts of the item being tested and not the connectors or screws securing the cables to it.
Edited by Oldred_V8S on Thursday 7th April 20:18
Ive replaced the relay, 0.90 ohms on both relays,and switch is connecting,and cleaned a few connectors up(they really dry up) ive got a multimetre but its decided to go haywire but getting some power but innacurate reading,fan overide switch works fine,i guess the relay on the electronic thermo replaces fan no 2 on fuse board,as was working fine wiyhout one, no other fuses to check are there.
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