Dashboard Fuel gauge issues
Discussion
Driving along,Gauge was working fine, then starting moving towards empty then back again, eventually resting at empty, this went on for a number of miles
Stopped at empty.
Will it be a connection on back of gauge, or do I need to investigate elsewhere?
Tank was approx. three quarters full at this point while driving
Stopped at empty.
Will it be a connection on back of gauge, or do I need to investigate elsewhere?
Tank was approx. three quarters full at this point while driving
You need to do some basic electrical tests with your multi meter, a continuity test between the sender and gauge is also useful.
The sender is super easy to get to, just lift the carpet on the top of the petrol tank and you'll find it, it's also easy to remove (five screws or so), pull the wand and float out of the tank and test the sender while moving the wand through it's full articulation.
After that you're looking at the gauge and it's connections but the whole system is pretty reliable to be honest so my guess it the solution will be simple (loose connection).
Basically the system works on resistance and the sender is a variable resistor, so you can easily test the gauge by earthing the sender at which point there will be zero resistance so the needle will shoot up to full on the gauge. Actually I seem to remember the TVR system may work in reverse to normal (typical TVR) so earthing the sender would show empty on the gauge not full, I'm sure someone will be along in a minute to confirm this.
Hope this helps?
Dave.
The sender is super easy to get to, just lift the carpet on the top of the petrol tank and you'll find it, it's also easy to remove (five screws or so), pull the wand and float out of the tank and test the sender while moving the wand through it's full articulation.
After that you're looking at the gauge and it's connections but the whole system is pretty reliable to be honest so my guess it the solution will be simple (loose connection).
Basically the system works on resistance and the sender is a variable resistor, so you can easily test the gauge by earthing the sender at which point there will be zero resistance so the needle will shoot up to full on the gauge. Actually I seem to remember the TVR system may work in reverse to normal (typical TVR) so earthing the sender would show empty on the gauge not full, I'm sure someone will be along in a minute to confirm this.
Hope this helps?
Dave.
My car is in bits at present so decided to calibrate the fuel gauge before it all goes back together.
On test it was giving very erratic readings particularly in the lower half. The sender did not seem to have much resistance to travel so I carefully prised off the cover and found the contact wiper did not have much spring in it. A quick twist with pliers and reassemble has the sender giving nice clean readings.
Another job done from the long list.
Steve
On test it was giving very erratic readings particularly in the lower half. The sender did not seem to have much resistance to travel so I carefully prised off the cover and found the contact wiper did not have much spring in it. A quick twist with pliers and reassemble has the sender giving nice clean readings.
Another job done from the long list.
Steve
CHIMV8 500 said:
Well,connectors all looked secure and correct.
So disconnected the plastic connector,ensured ingnition lights off,reconnected and hey preston fuel gauge working correctly again.
Dont you just love the 10 second fixes
Oh yes and that's the beauty of PH TVR, a several-hours fix becomes a 10-sec fix because someone has fixed it before !So disconnected the plastic connector,ensured ingnition lights off,reconnected and hey preston fuel gauge working correctly again.
Dont you just love the 10 second fixes
I was going to say that it could be your earth connection. My gauge started reading low and got lower when I turned on other electrics like the blower. It was a loose earth connection on the transmission tunnel.
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