mystery misfire... advice please.
Discussion
ok story so far. bought 'bubbly' the champagne gold '84 wedge (with nck 3905 running holley carb) couple of weeks ago as non-runner. found no spark. put 8 new plugs in ngk bp6es (which i had still in their boxes from last year when i bought them for the land rover lightweight 3.9 monster i sold last year) i digress. with new plugs, fresh battery from my mk1 transit, fresh fuel and a bodged repair on 2 ht leads (which may have been damaged when i pulled them off the plugs to check the plugs in the first place (the contacts/terminals came off the leads and remained on the plugs!) the engine started and sounded really good, smooth and extremely powerful. i drove it home and it was smooth all the way with no misfire, just running hot (which was separate issue traced to split hose).
while trying to sort cooling and burp system the other day, after replacing split hose, the engine developed misfire.
i checked the plugs and they were really sooty, just like the old ones were when i pulled them out the first time. these newly sooty plugs had only had 2 hours use! i cleaned them and replaced them and the car wouldn't restart.
i replaced all leads with new very expensive moroso ones that i had to make up to length, recommended and supplied by v8 developments. they also supplied dizzy cap which doesn't seem such a good fit as the one i removed. i put new red rotor arm on, recommended by v8 devs. still no joy, non-starter.
went through all the tests as described in haynes manual for this ignition system which is the electronic ignition dizzy but with remote amplifier under coil (lucas 2ce) going by haynes tests coil seemed ok, dizzy pick up ok 4000 ohms between terminals, earth seemed ok at amp, all seemed to be pointing to defective amplifier until the very last thing i did was clean connectors between dizzy and amp and it started!!!!! but seemed to be running on 7 instead of 8 or at least was not as smooth as when i first got it running.
yesterday very methodically and carefully removed and cleaned all plugs, old ones and new so i had 2 sets, found one good ht lead and set all the gaps on all the plugs 32 thou, then tested all plug on the known good lead, all but one worked, chucked the duff one, then taking one known good plug tested every ht lead, all worked. so put back 8 tested plugs and reattached 8 working leads and still misfire!!!!!!!!
help!!!!
could the amp be working but not well, or is it an on/off affair, working or not working???
could a plug be working but not well enough???
a lead working but no well enough???
how can all plugs and leads show a spark but still have a misfire poor running when it was running so smoothly just 2 hours use ago with no changes to carb' set up, mixture etc etc...
while trying to sort cooling and burp system the other day, after replacing split hose, the engine developed misfire.
i checked the plugs and they were really sooty, just like the old ones were when i pulled them out the first time. these newly sooty plugs had only had 2 hours use! i cleaned them and replaced them and the car wouldn't restart.
i replaced all leads with new very expensive moroso ones that i had to make up to length, recommended and supplied by v8 developments. they also supplied dizzy cap which doesn't seem such a good fit as the one i removed. i put new red rotor arm on, recommended by v8 devs. still no joy, non-starter.
went through all the tests as described in haynes manual for this ignition system which is the electronic ignition dizzy but with remote amplifier under coil (lucas 2ce) going by haynes tests coil seemed ok, dizzy pick up ok 4000 ohms between terminals, earth seemed ok at amp, all seemed to be pointing to defective amplifier until the very last thing i did was clean connectors between dizzy and amp and it started!!!!! but seemed to be running on 7 instead of 8 or at least was not as smooth as when i first got it running.
yesterday very methodically and carefully removed and cleaned all plugs, old ones and new so i had 2 sets, found one good ht lead and set all the gaps on all the plugs 32 thou, then tested all plug on the known good lead, all but one worked, chucked the duff one, then taking one known good plug tested every ht lead, all worked. so put back 8 tested plugs and reattached 8 working leads and still misfire!!!!!!!!
help!!!!
could the amp be working but not well, or is it an on/off affair, working or not working???
could a plug be working but not well enough???
a lead working but no well enough???
how can all plugs and leads show a spark but still have a misfire poor running when it was running so smoothly just 2 hours use ago with no changes to carb' set up, mixture etc etc...
also, if the lucas 2ce amplifier is faulty, the cheapest replacement i can find is this powerspark copy http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120801524580?_trksid=p20... for £169!!!!!!!! would i be better off swapping the whole dizzy for a good used later type with the amp module on the side? seems like a cheaper option, there's one on ebay now for less than half the price of the new amp! is the later dizzy with amp on the side better/more reliable?
Hi mate
What plugs are you using, They sound like they are too cool ...7?
The thing with the distributor is that originally it was a points distributor that TVR fitted an electronic pick up to and all the new recommended types will not work properly or cause these types of issues...Not sure about a red rotor arm...If its the original dizzy then you want one recommended for the EFI set up even though you don't have the EFI set up...Expensive leads are a con..I have used a good £25 set that was recommended for the classic V8 3.5 EFI Range/ Landrovers/Disco 1 with NO issues...In fact they actually stopped a mis-fire that i was getting.
I also had a hot mis-fire due to the wrong rotor arm even though it was recommended for a V8 3.5...Just not for the EFI.
I think the problem you have is identifying what was removed/Replaced in the carb conversion...If you had the EFI set up still on then i would of said its a possible CTS issue as it reads the engine temperature and adjusts the fuel accordingly...When it fails it will dump loads of fuel in...
Im pretty sure that an ignition amp would fail completely and not be intermittent?...Unfortunately it sounds like you have a number of issues that are causing this.....If you have checked all the electrical components for their resistances and cleaned up all the earths then its either an incompatibility component fault or breaks in main wires that expand with the heat and cause an issue...Bit of a head scratcher but be methodical in your testing...DONT go buying and changing too many parts without being 100% that they need to be or you will create new issues that will really pee you off....
What plugs are you using, They sound like they are too cool ...7?
The thing with the distributor is that originally it was a points distributor that TVR fitted an electronic pick up to and all the new recommended types will not work properly or cause these types of issues...Not sure about a red rotor arm...If its the original dizzy then you want one recommended for the EFI set up even though you don't have the EFI set up...Expensive leads are a con..I have used a good £25 set that was recommended for the classic V8 3.5 EFI Range/ Landrovers/Disco 1 with NO issues...In fact they actually stopped a mis-fire that i was getting.
I also had a hot mis-fire due to the wrong rotor arm even though it was recommended for a V8 3.5...Just not for the EFI.
I think the problem you have is identifying what was removed/Replaced in the carb conversion...If you had the EFI set up still on then i would of said its a possible CTS issue as it reads the engine temperature and adjusts the fuel accordingly...When it fails it will dump loads of fuel in...
Im pretty sure that an ignition amp would fail completely and not be intermittent?...Unfortunately it sounds like you have a number of issues that are causing this.....If you have checked all the electrical components for their resistances and cleaned up all the earths then its either an incompatibility component fault or breaks in main wires that expand with the heat and cause an issue...Bit of a head scratcher but be methodical in your testing...DONT go buying and changing too many parts without being 100% that they need to be or you will create new issues that will really pee you off....
yeah you are probably right regarding expensive leads, gutted that i paid 3130 for leads and a dizzy cap from v8 developments but done now :-(
i was excited about the awesome motor and wanted to give it the best.
oh well.
they recommended the red rotor arm from ebay and knew it was running carb set up.
in fact it was them that rebuilt the engine and set up the carb just 2 years ago.
that's why i asked them to recommend leads and cap and rotor arm.
the plugs i'm using are the 6 as stated at start of post. it is what i had and also what previous owner recommended as he said 7s were for efi but 6 better for carb???
i was excited about the awesome motor and wanted to give it the best.
oh well.
they recommended the red rotor arm from ebay and knew it was running carb set up.
in fact it was them that rebuilt the engine and set up the carb just 2 years ago.
that's why i asked them to recommend leads and cap and rotor arm.
the plugs i'm using are the 6 as stated at start of post. it is what i had and also what previous owner recommended as he said 7s were for efi but 6 better for carb???
mrzigazaga said:
Hi mate
What plugs are you using, They sound like they are too cool ...7?
The thing with the distributor is that originally it was a points distributor that TVR fitted an electronic pick up to and all the new recommended types will not work properly or cause these types of issues...Not sure about a red rotor arm...If its the original dizzy then you want one recommended for the EFI set up even though you don't have the EFI set up...Expensive leads are a con..I have used a good £25 set that was recommended for the classic V8 3.5 EFI Range/ Landrovers/Disco 1 with NO issues...In fact they actually stopped a mis-fire that i was getting.
I also had a hot mis-fire due to the wrong rotor arm even though it was recommended for a V8 3.5...Just not for the EFI.
I think the problem you have is identifying what was removed/Replaced in the carb conversion...If you had the EFI set up still on then i would of said its a possible CTS issue as it reads the engine temperature and adjusts the fuel accordingly...When it fails it will dump loads of fuel in...
Im pretty sure that an ignition amp would fail completely and not be intermittent?...Unfortunately it sounds like you have a number of issues that are causing this.....If you have checked all the electrical components for their resistances and cleaned up all the earths then its either an incompatibility component fault or breaks in main wires that expand with the heat and cause an issue...Bit of a head scratcher but be methodical in your testing...DONT go buying and changing too many parts without being 100% that they need to be or you will create new issues that will really pee you off....
What plugs are you using, They sound like they are too cool ...7?
The thing with the distributor is that originally it was a points distributor that TVR fitted an electronic pick up to and all the new recommended types will not work properly or cause these types of issues...Not sure about a red rotor arm...If its the original dizzy then you want one recommended for the EFI set up even though you don't have the EFI set up...Expensive leads are a con..I have used a good £25 set that was recommended for the classic V8 3.5 EFI Range/ Landrovers/Disco 1 with NO issues...In fact they actually stopped a mis-fire that i was getting.
I also had a hot mis-fire due to the wrong rotor arm even though it was recommended for a V8 3.5...Just not for the EFI.
I think the problem you have is identifying what was removed/Replaced in the carb conversion...If you had the EFI set up still on then i would of said its a possible CTS issue as it reads the engine temperature and adjusts the fuel accordingly...When it fails it will dump loads of fuel in...
Im pretty sure that an ignition amp would fail completely and not be intermittent?...Unfortunately it sounds like you have a number of issues that are causing this.....If you have checked all the electrical components for their resistances and cleaned up all the earths then its either an incompatibility component fault or breaks in main wires that expand with the heat and cause an issue...Bit of a head scratcher but be methodical in your testing...DONT go buying and changing too many parts without being 100% that they need to be or you will create new issues that will really pee you off....
So if the car was running I would go back to your start position i.e.
If it was running fine then put the original cap back on (Black Lucas ones are best as is the Black Lucas rotor arms (There are copies out there so beware - use a good local supplier you can then take it back if needs be!)
Double check leads are on in the correct order - on the cap its easily mixed up after a few changes! (my money is on one is wrong!! :-))
You need to check for a fat spark against the block on each plug. Same for HT lead
Take your time .... many changes and approach to a problem on our cars is proportional to introducing a new error!
With regards to you sooty plugs look at that once the car is running - could be feeling on your carb as I am told they all tend to run rich at low revs and idle - I am a EFi man so not that knowledgeable on this issue
Good luck and let us know how you get on
C
If it was running fine then put the original cap back on (Black Lucas ones are best as is the Black Lucas rotor arms (There are copies out there so beware - use a good local supplier you can then take it back if needs be!)
Double check leads are on in the correct order - on the cap its easily mixed up after a few changes! (my money is on one is wrong!! :-))
You need to check for a fat spark against the block on each plug. Same for HT lead
Take your time .... many changes and approach to a problem on our cars is proportional to introducing a new error!
With regards to you sooty plugs look at that once the car is running - could be feeling on your carb as I am told they all tend to run rich at low revs and idle - I am a EFi man so not that knowledgeable on this issue
Good luck and let us know how you get on
C
ok i went back to original rotor arm and it improved slightly, seemed to run slightly better.
yes i did check the leads were on the right way, i did think of that myself, and they were right. i have now labelled them with yellow insulating tape and marker pen (can't find those old school clip on chunk number cubes i remember from my p6 v8s years ago, dice size, remember them? would love a set of them now!).
so leads are right way round, there is a spark on each lead and on each plug but not what i would call a fat spark.
also with the notion that the sooty plug caused by over rick mixture, wound the air/fuel/idle mixture screw in on both sides of the holley to one and half turns out from all the way in (which seems to be the universal starting point on just about every car or motorbike carb i have ever set up) and it did speed up slightly when i started winding the right hand screw in which is a good sign.
so got hopefully, and tried to drive it and immediately it went rough again, popping and low on power, very bad running, so i guess either it won't give good spark under load or it is sooting up again very quickly ;-(
what plugs would you use on the ngk 3905 carbed? does the bp6es i am using sound right to you?
yes i did check the leads were on the right way, i did think of that myself, and they were right. i have now labelled them with yellow insulating tape and marker pen (can't find those old school clip on chunk number cubes i remember from my p6 v8s years ago, dice size, remember them? would love a set of them now!).
so leads are right way round, there is a spark on each lead and on each plug but not what i would call a fat spark.
also with the notion that the sooty plug caused by over rick mixture, wound the air/fuel/idle mixture screw in on both sides of the holley to one and half turns out from all the way in (which seems to be the universal starting point on just about every car or motorbike carb i have ever set up) and it did speed up slightly when i started winding the right hand screw in which is a good sign.
so got hopefully, and tried to drive it and immediately it went rough again, popping and low on power, very bad running, so i guess either it won't give good spark under load or it is sooting up again very quickly ;-(
what plugs would you use on the ngk 3905 carbed? does the bp6es i am using sound right to you?
Jack Valiant said:
So if the car was running I would go back to your start position i.e.
If it was running fine then put the original cap back on (Black Lucas ones are best as is the Black Lucas rotor arms (There are copies out there so beware - use a good local supplier you can then take it back if needs be!)
Double check leads are on in the correct order - on the cap its easily mixed up after a few changes! (my money is on one is wrong!! :-))
You need to check for a fat spark against the block on each plug. Same for HT lead
Take your time .... many changes and approach to a problem on our cars is proportional to introducing a new error!
With regards to you sooty plugs look at that once the car is running - could be feeling on your carb as I am told they all tend to run rich at low revs and idle - I am a EFi man so not that knowledgeable on this issue
Good luck and let us know how you get on
C
If it was running fine then put the original cap back on (Black Lucas ones are best as is the Black Lucas rotor arms (There are copies out there so beware - use a good local supplier you can then take it back if needs be!)
Double check leads are on in the correct order - on the cap its easily mixed up after a few changes! (my money is on one is wrong!! :-))
You need to check for a fat spark against the block on each plug. Same for HT lead
Take your time .... many changes and approach to a problem on our cars is proportional to introducing a new error!
With regards to you sooty plugs look at that once the car is running - could be feeling on your carb as I am told they all tend to run rich at low revs and idle - I am a EFi man so not that knowledgeable on this issue
Good luck and let us know how you get on
C
ES plugs should be fine .. Apols if teaching you to suck eggs ...
Assume you have not touched any part of the timing i.e. moved the dizzy?
Take out number 1 plug bring to TDc on the compression stroke and make sure the rotor arm is pointing to No 1 lead
Can you take off the cap and send a picture of the internals of the dizzy to get an idea of what you have fitted?
Do you have a laser thermometer? if so get it running albeit rough and see which cylinder in not hot by pointing at the relevant manifold branch
C
Assume you have not touched any part of the timing i.e. moved the dizzy?
Take out number 1 plug bring to TDc on the compression stroke and make sure the rotor arm is pointing to No 1 lead
Can you take off the cap and send a picture of the internals of the dizzy to get an idea of what you have fitted?
Do you have a laser thermometer? if so get it running albeit rough and see which cylinder in not hot by pointing at the relevant manifold branch
C
Last year I had an ongoing misfire on the 350i that took 3 months to sort. Changed the distributor, ignition amp, HT leads, wiring loom, coil etc. Problems were actually multiple and complicated with failure of new parts:
1. Initial problem was traced to knackered dissy that had excessive movement on bearing and shaft so this was replaced with new item from well known supplier near Droitwich.
2. Misfire came back so HT leads and coil were changed with new (again from same supplier)
3. Misfire still there so new coolant temperature sensor, thermotime switch, ignition amplifier, replaced section of wiring loom - still not cured.
4. Hall effect on dissy was then found to be faulty so was replaced (supplier sent free replacement) which helped a bit but still an under lying misfire once the engine warmed up.
5. Eventually was advised to run the engine at night in the pitch black and see what happened - the HT leads and coil were lit up like a bloody Christmas tree - both new units were breaking down under heat and shorting the HT out. Replacement HT leads and coil provided by TVR parts and misfire was all cured.
So moral of story is - just because you put new stuff under the bonnet don't assume it is working correctly. All three new items from same supplier failed on me. As you can imagine I will not be buying anything off them again.
1. Initial problem was traced to knackered dissy that had excessive movement on bearing and shaft so this was replaced with new item from well known supplier near Droitwich.
2. Misfire came back so HT leads and coil were changed with new (again from same supplier)
3. Misfire still there so new coolant temperature sensor, thermotime switch, ignition amplifier, replaced section of wiring loom - still not cured.
4. Hall effect on dissy was then found to be faulty so was replaced (supplier sent free replacement) which helped a bit but still an under lying misfire once the engine warmed up.
5. Eventually was advised to run the engine at night in the pitch black and see what happened - the HT leads and coil were lit up like a bloody Christmas tree - both new units were breaking down under heat and shorting the HT out. Replacement HT leads and coil provided by TVR parts and misfire was all cured.
So moral of story is - just because you put new stuff under the bonnet don't assume it is working correctly. All three new items from same supplier failed on me. As you can imagine I will not be buying anything off them again.
mrzigazaga said:
The thing with the distributor is that originally it was a points distributor that TVR fitted an electronic pick up to and all the new recommended types will not work properly or cause these types of issues...
Not entirely true (and don't forget TVR didn't do anything they didn't need to) - the early 'electronic' distributor with the remote ignition amp was known as the 35DL8, this is what will probably be stamped on the dissie.The later (ignition amp on the side) dissie was the 35DLM8 but that comes in two flavours depending on where the vacuum capsule is mounted in relation to the amp module. The advantage of this type is no cabling between the pickup coil inside the dissie and the amp.
in my experience of failing pickup coils it wasn't a misfire that presented but an inability to rev high, ultimately followed by the pickup coil going open-circuit so the car won't start.
mrzigazaga said:
Im pretty sure that an ignition amp would fail completely and not be intermittent?....
Generally true but being an electronic circuit it can deteriorate as it heats up, so if the misfire gets worse after a few minutes running it could be a thermal failure.You would imagine that the internal parts would be largely interchangeable and indeed they are, but there are differences in the dissie casting that make it a bit of a chew to swap things around (like cast-in threads in the wrong place or missing altogether, or the vac advance hole being in the wrong place).
no apology necessary, am glad of all help and advice even if some is stuff i already knew or tried, even that is reassuring! but you have given plenty i didn't think of.
no not moved dizzy or altered timing so should be same as when i drove it home.
will try the tdc test tomorrow, car packed away under tarp again as i am collecting son from school soon, so will do that and get pics tomorrow. is there a better way of finding tdc on number 1 than a plastic straw down the plug hole?
no don't have lazer thermometer but like that idea, will try and find one on ebay.
the cap v8 devs sent says lucas on the box but no anywhere on the cap itself and the box also has label saying lucas br 3375g and stc8368g and made in china!!!!! since when is lucas a chines brand? also says bearmach!!! confused? i am!
as for the plugs, 6 ok or try 7?
no not moved dizzy or altered timing so should be same as when i drove it home.
will try the tdc test tomorrow, car packed away under tarp again as i am collecting son from school soon, so will do that and get pics tomorrow. is there a better way of finding tdc on number 1 than a plastic straw down the plug hole?
no don't have lazer thermometer but like that idea, will try and find one on ebay.
the cap v8 devs sent says lucas on the box but no anywhere on the cap itself and the box also has label saying lucas br 3375g and stc8368g and made in china!!!!! since when is lucas a chines brand? also says bearmach!!! confused? i am!
as for the plugs, 6 ok or try 7?
Jack Valiant said:
ES plugs should be fine .. Apols if teaching you to suck eggs ...
Assume you have not touched any part of the timing i.e. moved the dizzy?
Take out number 1 plug bring to TDc on the compression stroke and make sure the rotor arm is pointing to No 1 lead
Can you take off the cap and send a picture of the internals of the dizzy to get an idea of what you have fitted?
Do you have a laser thermometer? if so get it running albeit rough and see which cylinder in not hot by pointing at the relevant manifold branch
C
Assume you have not touched any part of the timing i.e. moved the dizzy?
Take out number 1 plug bring to TDc on the compression stroke and make sure the rotor arm is pointing to No 1 lead
Can you take off the cap and send a picture of the internals of the dizzy to get an idea of what you have fitted?
Do you have a laser thermometer? if so get it running albeit rough and see which cylinder in not hot by pointing at the relevant manifold branch
C
wow! good to know!!!! thanks, god hope this doesn't take me 3 months to sort!!!! will try the night time trick, like that. will also think twice about some of the new parts! cheers.
would not be surprised if my dizzy is past best too!
would not be surprised if my dizzy is past best too!
KKson said:
Last year I had an ongoing misfire on the 350i that took 3 months to sort. Changed the distributor, ignition amp, HT leads, wiring loom, coil etc. Problems were actually multiple and complicated with failure of new parts:
1. Initial problem was traced to knackered dissy that had excessive movement on bearing and shaft so this was replaced with new item from well known supplier near Droitwich.
2. Misfire came back so HT leads and coil were changed with new (again from same supplier)
3. Misfire still there so new coolant temperature sensor, thermotime switch, ignition amplifier, replaced section of wiring loom - still not cured.
4. Hall effect on dissy was then found to be faulty so was replaced (supplier sent free replacement) which helped a bit but still an under lying misfire once the engine warmed up.
5. Eventually was advised to run the engine at night in the pitch black and see what happened - the HT leads and coil were lit up like a bloody Christmas tree - both new units were breaking down under heat and shorting the HT out. Replacement HT leads and coil provided by TVR parts and misfire was all cured.
So moral of story is - just because you put new stuff under the bonnet don't assume it is working correctly. All three new items from same supplier failed on me. As you can imagine I will not be buying anything off them again.
1. Initial problem was traced to knackered dissy that had excessive movement on bearing and shaft so this was replaced with new item from well known supplier near Droitwich.
2. Misfire came back so HT leads and coil were changed with new (again from same supplier)
3. Misfire still there so new coolant temperature sensor, thermotime switch, ignition amplifier, replaced section of wiring loom - still not cured.
4. Hall effect on dissy was then found to be faulty so was replaced (supplier sent free replacement) which helped a bit but still an under lying misfire once the engine warmed up.
5. Eventually was advised to run the engine at night in the pitch black and see what happened - the HT leads and coil were lit up like a bloody Christmas tree - both new units were breaking down under heat and shorting the HT out. Replacement HT leads and coil provided by TVR parts and misfire was all cured.
So moral of story is - just because you put new stuff under the bonnet don't assume it is working correctly. All three new items from same supplier failed on me. As you can imagine I will not be buying anything off them again.
thanks wed1e, so it might be better to replace the whole dizzi for good 2nd hand later one than replaced failed amp?
imagine any later dizzi will do, from a discovery or range rover etc? then just wire to coil?
imagine any later dizzi will do, from a discovery or range rover etc? then just wire to coil?
Wedg1e said:
Generally true but being an electronic circuit it can deteriorate as it heats up, so if the misfire gets worse after a few minutes running it could be a thermal failure.
You would imagine that the internal parts would be largely interchangeable and indeed they are, but there are differences in the dissie casting that make it a bit of a chew to swap things around (like cast-in threads in the wrong place or missing altogether, or the vac advance hole being in the wrong place).
You would imagine that the internal parts would be largely interchangeable and indeed they are, but there are differences in the dissie casting that make it a bit of a chew to swap things around (like cast-in threads in the wrong place or missing altogether, or the vac advance hole being in the wrong place).
also just noticed that looking at the haynes range rover manual supplements and revisions for my dizzi, the exploded diagram shows a insulation cover/flash shield under rotor arm, and above pick up baseplate business. mine does not have that shield, is that likely to be an issue? surely not if it was not there when i drove the car home!?
Thats why I asked for a piccy of the internals ... lets see what you have in there - running in the dark is always good as advised ..
As you are a carb setup you could change to a complete Powerspark solution, they are about £150 for dissy HT leads, coil and amp rotor arm ... straight forward fit as long as you are fine to set up the timing etc
Chris
drak ula said:
also just noticed that looking at the haynes range rover manual supplements and revisions for my dizzi, the exploded diagram shows a insulation cover/flash shield under rotor arm, and above pick up baseplate business. mine does not have that shield, is that likely to be an issue? surely not if it was not there when i drove the car home!?
Again if the car was running fine seems odd that this would have caused the issue and at start up rather than hot use.As you are a carb setup you could change to a complete Powerspark solution, they are about £150 for dissy HT leads, coil and amp rotor arm ... straight forward fit as long as you are fine to set up the timing etc
Chris
Sorry but just to add to this thread, the new dissy I bought, that failed, that had a replacement hall effect pickup installed never timed correctly. If I set it to 8 degrees BTDC as required then the car was undrivable due to pinking. Eventually I retarded it back to 0 degrees BTDC so I could drive it but if I hoofed it then the advance was too far and again the engine pinked. I did raise this with the supplier at the NEC Restoration show and he suggested that the inside of the dissy is tack welded to limit the movement of the counter weights. Surprisingly I did not like this answer so have now purchased a good second hand original 350i Lucas unit and normal happy service, correct timing and correct advance has been resumed. 
All I can add is "Good ole British engineering"....Keep British in Britain..Most of the Chinese copies of anything are crap...Please stop buying this rubbish...The sooner we do the sooner this government will open their eyes to the fact that all China is doing is filling up the piggy banks to buy nukes as the copies are also crap!.
"VOTE OUT OF THE BLOOD SUCKING EU...VOTE FOR YOUR CHILDREN'S FUTURE'S...VOTE FOR THE SAKE OF THE COMMON MAN....VOTE TO KEEP BRITAIN IN POWER AND OUT OF OTHER COUNTRIES SQUABBLES...VOTE AGAINST FAILED FOREIGN AID...VOTE AGAINST A FALSE ECONOMY WHICH DENIES OUR OWN PEOPLE A MUCH NEEDED INVESTMENT...VOTE FOR LOWER TAX ON FOOD AND FUEL...VOTE FOR MORE AFFORDABLE HOUSING FOR THE YOUNG..VOTE FOR MORE SCHOOLS...VOTE FOR MORE HOSPITALS...VOTE FOR BETTER AND NEWLY BUILT ROADS THAT WILL EASE THE CONGESTION ON MAJOR ROUTES...VOTE TO BAN BICYCLES ON A PUBLIC HIGHWAY UNLESS THEY HAVE A RELEVANT DRIVING APTITUDE LICENCE AND A FORM OF ROAD TAX & INSURANCE...AND FINALLY VOTE FOR ME ON MAY THE 5TH".....
Please note that i am not a politician nor do i have any such parties with any influence over communities of people or companies..Im just really pissed off about how my country is being raped and abused!
Sayonara sweetheart....The Zig
"VOTE OUT OF THE BLOOD SUCKING EU...VOTE FOR YOUR CHILDREN'S FUTURE'S...VOTE FOR THE SAKE OF THE COMMON MAN....VOTE TO KEEP BRITAIN IN POWER AND OUT OF OTHER COUNTRIES SQUABBLES...VOTE AGAINST FAILED FOREIGN AID...VOTE AGAINST A FALSE ECONOMY WHICH DENIES OUR OWN PEOPLE A MUCH NEEDED INVESTMENT...VOTE FOR LOWER TAX ON FOOD AND FUEL...VOTE FOR MORE AFFORDABLE HOUSING FOR THE YOUNG..VOTE FOR MORE SCHOOLS...VOTE FOR MORE HOSPITALS...VOTE FOR BETTER AND NEWLY BUILT ROADS THAT WILL EASE THE CONGESTION ON MAJOR ROUTES...VOTE TO BAN BICYCLES ON A PUBLIC HIGHWAY UNLESS THEY HAVE A RELEVANT DRIVING APTITUDE LICENCE AND A FORM OF ROAD TAX & INSURANCE...AND FINALLY VOTE FOR ME ON MAY THE 5TH".....Please note that i am not a politician nor do i have any such parties with any influence over communities of people or companies..Im just really pissed off about how my country is being raped and abused!
Sayonara sweetheart....The Zig
saw this and thought this was cheap enough to be worth a try in place of the older one i have with possibly suspect remote amp, but then saw it was in droitwich!!!! what is the name of the supplier you want to avoid/ this is not the bbc, you are allowed to give feedback for suppliers good or bad, we need to know!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Classic-V8-D...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Classic-V8-D...
KKson said:
Sorry but just to add to this thread, the new dissy I bought, that failed, that had a replacement hall effect pickup installed never timed correctly. If I set it to 8 degrees BTDC as required then the car was undrivable due to pinking. Eventually I retarded it back to 0 degrees BTDC so I could drive it but if I hoofed it then the advance was too far and again the engine pinked. I did raise this with the supplier at the NEC Restoration show and he suggested that the inside of the dissy is tack welded to limit the movement of the counter weights. Surprisingly I did not like this answer so have now purchased a good second hand original 350i Lucas unit and normal happy service, correct timing and correct advance has been resumed.
so is this not a genuine lucas item or has lucas moved to china or do they sub work out or what????
underneath the box it says 'trademark licensed from lucas industries plc uk.
underneath the box it says 'trademark licensed from lucas industries plc uk.
mrzigazaga said:
All I can add is "Good ole British engineering"....Keep British in Britain..Most of the Chinese copies of anything are crap...Please stop buying this rubbish...The sooner we do the sooner this government will open their eyes to the fact that all China is doing is filling up the piggy banks to buy nukes as the copies are also crap!.
"VOTE OUT OF THE BLOOD SUCKING EU...VOTE FOR YOUR CHILDREN'S FUTURE'S...VOTE FOR THE SAKE OF THE COMMON MAN....VOTE TO KEEP BRITAIN IN POWER AND OUT OF OTHER COUNTRIES SQUABBLES...VOTE AGAINST FAILED FOREIGN AID...VOTE AGAINST A FALSE ECONOMY WHICH DENIES OUR OWN PEOPLE A MUCH NEEDED INVESTMENT...VOTE FOR LOWER TAX ON FOOD AND FUEL...VOTE FOR MORE AFFORDABLE HOUSING FOR THE YOUNG..VOTE FOR MORE SCHOOLS...VOTE FOR MORE HOSPITALS...VOTE FOR BETTER AND NEWLY BUILT ROADS THAT WILL EASE THE CONGESTION ON MAJOR ROUTES...VOTE TO BAN BICYCLES ON A PUBLIC HIGHWAY UNLESS THEY HAVE A RELEVANT DRIVING APTITUDE LICENCE AND A FORM OF ROAD TAX & INSURANCE...AND FINALLY VOTE FOR ME ON MAY THE 5TH".....
Please note that i am not a politician nor do i have any such parties with any influence over communities of people or companies..Im just really pissed off about how my country is being raped and abused!
Sayonara sweetheart....The Zig
"VOTE OUT OF THE BLOOD SUCKING EU...VOTE FOR YOUR CHILDREN'S FUTURE'S...VOTE FOR THE SAKE OF THE COMMON MAN....VOTE TO KEEP BRITAIN IN POWER AND OUT OF OTHER COUNTRIES SQUABBLES...VOTE AGAINST FAILED FOREIGN AID...VOTE AGAINST A FALSE ECONOMY WHICH DENIES OUR OWN PEOPLE A MUCH NEEDED INVESTMENT...VOTE FOR LOWER TAX ON FOOD AND FUEL...VOTE FOR MORE AFFORDABLE HOUSING FOR THE YOUNG..VOTE FOR MORE SCHOOLS...VOTE FOR MORE HOSPITALS...VOTE FOR BETTER AND NEWLY BUILT ROADS THAT WILL EASE THE CONGESTION ON MAJOR ROUTES...VOTE TO BAN BICYCLES ON A PUBLIC HIGHWAY UNLESS THEY HAVE A RELEVANT DRIVING APTITUDE LICENCE AND A FORM OF ROAD TAX & INSURANCE...AND FINALLY VOTE FOR ME ON MAY THE 5TH".....Please note that i am not a politician nor do i have any such parties with any influence over communities of people or companies..Im just really pissed off about how my country is being raped and abused!
Sayonara sweetheart....The Zig
saw this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Classic-V8-D...
and thought at this price it could be worth trying but notice it has 3 pins on the amp module not 2. maybe one is to the efi ecu or maybe even to the tacho rather than tacho wire coming from the coil? do you think this is a good idea to junk the very expensive to replace remote amp and try this later dizzy with attached amp?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Classic-V8-D...
and thought at this price it could be worth trying but notice it has 3 pins on the amp module not 2. maybe one is to the efi ecu or maybe even to the tacho rather than tacho wire coming from the coil? do you think this is a good idea to junk the very expensive to replace remote amp and try this later dizzy with attached amp?
Wedg1e said:
Generally true but being an electronic circuit it can deteriorate as it heats up, so if the misfire gets worse after a few minutes running it could be a thermal failure.
You would imagine that the internal parts would be largely interchangeable and indeed they are, but there are differences in the dissie casting that make it a bit of a chew to swap things around (like cast-in threads in the wrong place or missing altogether, or the vac advance hole being in the wrong place).
You would imagine that the internal parts would be largely interchangeable and indeed they are, but there are differences in the dissie casting that make it a bit of a chew to swap things around (like cast-in threads in the wrong place or missing altogether, or the vac advance hole being in the wrong place).
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