Repairing with stainless
Discussion
I'm patching up an old car, cutting out old rust and welding in new metal. Is there any reason why I can't use bits of stainless steel for my patches? Some of them are going to be hard to rust proof fully from the inside and I hope using this will prolong it a bit more.
Is there some strange metallurgy rule I haven't heard about?
Is there some strange metallurgy rule I haven't heard about?
If you can get hold of some, use stainless ferretic grade 1.4003 (3CR12) it's a grade that's almost mild steel with stainless corrosion resistance properties.
A lot of ducting companies use it.
Weld with TIG if you can, if you can get to both sides of the weld, do non penetration welds and weld both sides, if not try and get an inert gas purge behind the weld and full penetration welds.
As said the area local to the weld on the carbon steel side will be the weak area but if it's for areas prone to corrosion anyway a weak weld area is going to be better than rust?
A lot of ducting companies use it.
Weld with TIG if you can, if you can get to both sides of the weld, do non penetration welds and weld both sides, if not try and get an inert gas purge behind the weld and full penetration welds.
As said the area local to the weld on the carbon steel side will be the weak area but if it's for areas prone to corrosion anyway a weak weld area is going to be better than rust?
Completely off topic, but may I recommend Zanussi? When a Jaguar Mk 1 was pulled out of a garage after 25 years slumber it was pretty rotten. Being poor, the owner used the carcass of the old washing machine. Still in good order to this day, and that's more than 20 years! But seriously, with modern rust inhibitors I can't see a problem with ordinary steel. My car only required new floor pans after 25 years hard use, and that was because the welds weren't properly treated. The rest of the car was fine. Methinks thou dost worry too much?
Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


