Wheel nut help
Discussion
Need some help/guidance on wheel nut removal. I wanted to give the wheels (sports pack) on my vantage a thorough cleaning and sealant protection, so set about removing them, no locking wheel nuts are involved.
Having had a quick scan of forum pages it seems the nuts can be either 21mm or 22mm, I tried both, the 21mm only went on a couple of mm so risked slipping off. The 22mm went on OK but wasn't a snug fit, should point out I'm using 12 point sockets. I managed to get one wheel off no problem, although there was a slip of a few degrees before the socket took purchase.
On to the second wheel, first 4 nuts came off just fine, but the 5th one wouldn't budge with the socket just slipping to the point that it's now getting rounded off. I guess I could just hammer a 21mm socket on to get this one off. But I'm now nervous about torquing the other nuts back up incase they get rounded off as well. Anyone else encountered difficulty with AM nuts?
On the plus side I have one very clean wheel, albeit loosely attached to the car.
not sure if all the nuts are the same, these are my offending items;
Having had a quick scan of forum pages it seems the nuts can be either 21mm or 22mm, I tried both, the 21mm only went on a couple of mm so risked slipping off. The 22mm went on OK but wasn't a snug fit, should point out I'm using 12 point sockets. I managed to get one wheel off no problem, although there was a slip of a few degrees before the socket took purchase.
On to the second wheel, first 4 nuts came off just fine, but the 5th one wouldn't budge with the socket just slipping to the point that it's now getting rounded off. I guess I could just hammer a 21mm socket on to get this one off. But I'm now nervous about torquing the other nuts back up incase they get rounded off as well. Anyone else encountered difficulty with AM nuts?
On the plus side I have one very clean wheel, albeit loosely attached to the car.
not sure if all the nuts are the same, these are my offending items;
te. Same with Land Rover ones, just utter garbage. 
I use the Sealey sockets for a couple of reasons.
Not only is the colouring making it easy to identify the correct socket at a glance, but the nylon outer sleeve protects the wheel finish inside the wheel nut recess.
Even better are the torque limited sockets which ratchet round once the wheel nut torque is correct. Great to keep in the boot and give to the tyre fitting monkeys to prevent overtightening and stretching the studs.
Not only is the colouring making it easy to identify the correct socket at a glance, but the nylon outer sleeve protects the wheel finish inside the wheel nut recess.
Even better are the torque limited sockets which ratchet round once the wheel nut torque is correct. Great to keep in the boot and give to the tyre fitting monkeys to prevent overtightening and stretching the studs.
My question is the second stage torque level on the wheel nuts..
For DB9 The workshop manual says wheel nut torque is first to 80nm in one continuous movement then to 135nm
My vehicle manual says first to 80nm in one continuous movement then to 180nm
Admittedly the workshop manual is an early version for pre MY09 cars, and my vehicle manual is for an MY09, but that's a big difference.
For DB9 The workshop manual says wheel nut torque is first to 80nm in one continuous movement then to 135nm
My vehicle manual says first to 80nm in one continuous movement then to 180nm
Admittedly the workshop manual is an early version for pre MY09 cars, and my vehicle manual is for an MY09, but that's a big difference.
) 21mm.
mrpseudonym said:
My question is the second stage torque level on the wheel nuts..
For DB9 The workshop manual says wheel nut torque is first to 80nm in one continuous movement then to 135nm
My vehicle manual says first to 80nm in one continuous movement then to 180nm
Admittedly the workshop manual is an early version for pre MY09 cars, and my vehicle manual is for an MY09, but that's a big difference.
For that amount of difference, are the wheel studs the same thread diameter AND pitch? Also, the torque will be different if you have those sleeved loose washers on the nuts.For DB9 The workshop manual says wheel nut torque is first to 80nm in one continuous movement then to 135nm
My vehicle manual says first to 80nm in one continuous movement then to 180nm
Admittedly the workshop manual is an early version for pre MY09 cars, and my vehicle manual is for an MY09, but that's a big difference.
I have never EVER seen anyone do a 2 stage wheel nut torque! Admittedly, I "nip" them all up in a criss-cross pattern to initially seat the wheel, but they only ever get 1 go on the torque wrench, and I thought I was being quite particular.
Most tyre fitting centres bang the nuts up overtight with the air wrench, then do a token walk around with a torque wrench which is a complete waste of time as the nuts are already too tight, but it looks good and makes sure the air wrench weilder didn't miss any nuts completely.
The idea of the torque wrench is to slowly tighten the nut until the torque wrench "breaks", and then stop as the nut is at the preset torque. Watch them do it and the wrench clicks as soon as they apply torque to the nut because the torque is already greater than the level set on the wrench.
THATS why I give them my own preset torque limited wheel socket.
Edited by 8Tech on Thursday 12th May 22:58
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