How do you slow to a junction?
Discussion
Well, say you're doing 60mph, coming up on a set of red lights. Do you:
a) Slow down using the brakes, keeping it in 5th gear until the revs drop too low, and coast to a halt?
b) Slow down using the brakes, dropping down through the gears as your speed drops?
c) Coast, and use the brakes all the way?
Just wanted to know what other people did really, I tend to do a).
a) Slow down using the brakes, keeping it in 5th gear until the revs drop too low, and coast to a halt?
b) Slow down using the brakes, dropping down through the gears as your speed drops?
c) Coast, and use the brakes all the way?
Just wanted to know what other people did really, I tend to do a).
None of the above.
I slow to the junction in fifth. Check for traffic, select the appropriate (power band) gear, match engine revs & engage, prepare to drive on without stopping where possible. If forced to stop then select 1st with clutch depressed and prepare to move on.
Defensive driver training teaches you to avoid stopping at all costs. Two reasons, firstly a car in motion is far more stable when power is applied and it needs less space when joining traffic. Secondly motionless cars are far more likely to be involved in small impact events. Shunting at roundabouts, etc.
I slow to the junction in fifth. Check for traffic, select the appropriate (power band) gear, match engine revs & engage, prepare to drive on without stopping where possible. If forced to stop then select 1st with clutch depressed and prepare to move on.
Defensive driver training teaches you to avoid stopping at all costs. Two reasons, firstly a car in motion is far more stable when power is applied and it needs less space when joining traffic. Secondly motionless cars are far more likely to be involved in small impact events. Shunting at roundabouts, etc.
read the road / traffic, anticipate your quickest likely passage but leave enough margin to be able to stop if neccessary, double de-clutch down through the box, heel and toe if required. Works for negotiating all hazards and keeps you in the right gear all the time whilst eliminating any risk of rear end lock up and reduces load on brakes - if required at all, judge it right and usually not. 
Hang on...I thought I'd found all the secret buttons / pedals etc in my trevor. So there's another one...which...what was it you called it...break?
Actually, i'm trying to practise my heel and toe for this exact senario but I think i need to adjust the brake pedal as its still a couple of inches higher than my accelator when depressed.
Anybody here got any good advise on heel & toeing?
Actually, i'm trying to practise my heel and toe for this exact senario but I think i need to adjust the brake pedal as its still a couple of inches higher than my accelator when depressed.
Anybody here got any good advise on heel & toeing?
Fez1974 said:
Anybody here got any good advise on heel & toeing?
I've long fantasised about being asked to teach someone double de-clutch and heel and toe (Yeah weird isn't it). I taught myself to double de-clutch yonks ago, but only once I had fully understood the theory of what one is trying to achieve. Once this is sorted teaching yourself is just a matter of practice.
I think there are some good threads on the subject around.
Heel and toe is only really relevant if you are double de-clutching, so that's the first step. (
I suppose someones going to say that you can achieve something by blipping the throttle on a single de-clutched downnchange tho, and I conceed that that might reduce the risk of rear wheel lock up, just seems rather like half-measures). A detailled account of DDC would be tedious and I'm sure there are good sources. Heel and toe is really a matter of getting used to simulataneously modulating pressure smoothly on 2 pedals with one foot. Again just a matter of practice and becomes second nature after a while. I'll stop there before everyone's snoring
i used to be in 5th brake with my toe and throttle blip with the right side of my foot through all the gears until i was slowed down, try not to stop.
heel and toeing is dead easy and eliminates the risk of the rears locking up or creating a slide due to poor clutch control or a snatched gear.
much safer, and it sounds great too!
heel and toeing is dead easy and eliminates the risk of the rears locking up or creating a slide due to poor clutch control or a snatched gear.
much safer, and it sounds great too!
Road Craft - the Police Drivers Guide - would advocate A. Braking progressively in 5th until you are ready to stop, then clutch and into 1st so ready to go again (handbrake on if anticipate a long stop). However, by timing the braking, you may at some stage be able to "go" so select appropriate gear for current speed and continue.
Always better to try and avoid stopping as less harsh on the pads, easier to get going again and saves fuel
as not revving in 1st.
Always better to try and avoid stopping as less harsh on the pads, easier to get going again and saves fuel
as not revving in 1st.
over_the_hill said:But maybe 1st isn't so appropriate in a Tiv. Much less likely to spin on the inevitable (at a junction) diesel deposits in 2nd. IMHO.
Road Craft - the Police Drivers Guide - would advocate A. Braking progressively in 5th until you are ready to stop, then clutch and into 1st so ready to go again (handbrake on if anticipate a long stop). However, by timing the braking, you may at some stage be able to "go" so select appropriate gear for current speed and continue.
Always better to try and avoid stopping as less harsh on the pads, easier to get going again and saves fuel
as not revving in 1st.
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