Clutch hard on 350i

[dukeenfield]

Hi,The clutch is very hard to press in,is this normal.
I wondered if its worth changing seals,are these Rover master cylinder gmc1015 and slave cylinder gsy101.thanks Ken.

[19560]

Sounds like a slave cylinder problem. I can't remember the detail at the moment but there is either a plastic piston or cyl liner type affair and it can come out of it's housing and stick or twist.

[wedg1e]

If you've never driven a Wedge before, it probably feels like trying to push a housebrick through a bucket of treacle - ie, very heavy!
If it's suddenly become heavier then it's probably got a problem...

[jmorgan]

Excuse the waffle. But I fancy the clutch is easier on the 400 compared with the 350. How much difference does the diameter of the pipe to the slave cylinder make? Its larger on me 400 compared to my old 350.

Mind you, 10+ years of Wedge tends to give a left leg like Garth's. Probably explains the dent in the floor in the festa under the clutch peddle.

[paul gotts]

Sometimes the actuating rod on the end of the master cylinder can get bent, usually because its adjustment at the pedal is wound right out (to bring it closer to the driver), and partly because it doesn't sit at an ideal angle compared to the piston/cylinder itself. If the seals are gone, you would normally see leakage down the rod and pedal. Although I have changed seals in the past, I personnaly don't bother now - chances are the piston / bore are worn, so re-sealing is only a temp. measure.

[h2dca]

It may even be something as simple as the clutch fluid, over a period of time the fluid will degrade to a point it has absorbed so much moisture, dirt etc that it loses it's compressibility hence the resistance. I personally change all brake/clutch fluids annually due to this as I had a similar issue many years ago with the brakes on an S2, very hard pedal and minimal effect on brakes. Bled the brakes all round, fluid was black and like treacle and after clearing the system the brakes were amazing (For an S2)

As with these things start with the easy jobs (1/2 hr to flush and bleed the clutch), it is easy to thinK the worst when it could be a relatively simple problem.

Good luck
Hamish


>> Edited by h2dca on Wednesday 2nd March 13:11

[jchase]

In my limited experience...This is usually work-hardening of the big diaphraghm return spring how many miles you done ?

[dukeenfield]

I have only done about 200 miles since I have had it,but the previous owner,said the car had been stored for about nine years and had 62300 miles on clock when the person before him bought it
It has 68000 miles on clock now,the clutch does work,but I have to have seat as far forward as possible and press it right in.
Is the spring in the master cylinder?,suppose I would be best trying to flush it and bleeding it first.thanks Ken.

[shpub]

The spring is in the clutch fingers themselves. It is possible that the pivot/release arm is worn and starting to jam. Only way to find this is to remove the gearbox which means taking the engine out usually...

[adam quantrill]

I would say master cylinder is the first to check. When the piston starts to wear is slides in the barrel cock-eyed (because of the aforementioned bad angle the pushrod makes along the travel down the bore). The edges start to dig in, giving a heavier pedal. I wouldn't rule out the slave end, but because of the hydraulic advantage, it has much less effect.

Get some hydraulic grease and apply under the master cylinder boot to the piston while it's pressed in. However you will only prolong its life for 10k miles at most, before it starts pissing fluid in through the bulkhead.

- Adam

[dukeenfield]

Thanks for help,I have stripped down clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and cleaned up and replaced seals.It feels a lot better now,thanks Ken.