Ideal Geo set up???
Ideal Geo set up???
Author
Discussion

motul1974

Original Poster:

727 posts

168 months

Saturday 4th June 2016
quotequote all
I've not not bought myself a set of single adj Protechs 400/350 to go on my Chimaera which I plan to fit myself and have one of the lads in our workshop set up, and so was looking for the ideal geo figures?
I've found the factory spec in Steve Heaths Bible, but just wondered if these can be changed/improved to suit my fast road, rarely on track, use?


Adrian

bobfather

11,197 posts

284 months

Saturday 4th June 2016
quotequote all
Ride height is quite important as a first job because the suspension has unequal length wishbones. Rear 155mm, front 145mm outrigger corner to ground should give you horizontal lower wishbones

Rear
1.4 degrees neg camber
1.5mm toe in per side (12 minutes)
Front
3/4 of degree of neg camber
0.75mm toe in per side (6minutes)

motul1974

Original Poster:

727 posts

168 months

Saturday 4th June 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for that. Are they factory specs or other?

Adrian

ou sont les biscuits

5,462 posts

224 months

Saturday 4th June 2016
quotequote all
This any use?


motul1974

Original Poster:

727 posts

168 months

Saturday 4th June 2016
quotequote all
Thats wonderful, thank you. What spec did you fix your car at may I ask?


Adrian

taylormj4

1,635 posts

295 months

Tuesday 7th June 2016
quotequote all
ou sont les biscuits said:
This any use?

Awesome. Thanks for sharing this. Who was Neil Anderson at TVR ? Hopefully someone related to suspension or design.

Big Ashy

492 posts

282 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
Neil Anderson was part of the chassis design team for TVR in the late 80s, 90s and 00s, if my memory serves me correctly Neil played a vital part in the design of the chassis for the Tuscan Challenge cars that the Chimera and Griff were based upon, also the Cerbera including Speed Twelve and the T Cars including Sagaris, knows a thing or two about settling up suspension too! thumbup

ClassiChimi

12,424 posts

178 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
I thought the Griff/then Chim chassis was developed from the S chassis which became the Tuscan race car chassis and included the cross section strenghtening bars as under the engine etc,,, wasn't the early Chim /griff chassis missing those strengthening bars?
So our cars existed as they tested the race car and added the extra strength to the production chassis after finding it wobble on track with the Tuscan!
Or is that complete tosh.

I seem to think I was told the early cars didn't have the stronger chassis,,, but it could still have been in development stage and before the cars were released to the public??

In a nut shell I'm trying to articulate the Chassis existed in our cars before the race car,,,,
If someone knows these details then feel free to correct me as I find it all very fascinating. smile

hillclimbmanic

694 posts

173 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
ClassiChimi said:
I thought the Griff/then Chim chassis was developed from the S chassis which became the Tuscan race car chassis and included the cross section strenghtening bars as under the engine etc,,, wasn't the early Chim /griff chassis missing those strengthening bars?
So our cars existed as they tested the race car and added the extra strength to the production chassis after finding it wobble on track with the Tuscan!
Or is that complete tosh.

I seem to think I was told the early cars didn't have the stronger chassis,,, but it could still have been in development stage and before the cars were released to the public??

In a nut shell I'm trying to articulate the Chassis existed in our cars before the race car,,,,
If someone knows these details then feel free to correct me as I find it all very fascinating. smile
I thought that they originally planned on using the V8S chassis for the Griff, but with the intended hike in power, then turned to the tuscan racer chassis, and modified it, to accommodate the Griff body...

But - That's only my take on it.!! tongue out
Paul


Edited by hillclimbmanic on Thursday 9th June 07:45

QBee

22,464 posts

173 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
motul1974 said:
I've not not bought myself a set of single adj Protechs 400/350 to go on my Chimaera which I plan to fit myself and have one of the lads in our workshop set up, and so was looking for the ideal geo figures?
I've found the factory spec in Steve Heaths Bible, but just wondered if these can be changed/improved to suit my fast road, rarely on track, use?


Adrian
I have been known to venture onto a track occasionally, so have modified one setting, namely using 1.5 degrees of negative camber at the front.
I have to say that the car handles noticeably better on the road with this setting.
After all, the only time you will really notice it is when cornering briskly, and that's when road meets track, if you see what i mean.

motul1974

Original Poster:

727 posts

168 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for that.

One thing I do notice in my car, maybe its being inexperienced in other TVR's, but my steering has a the initial feeling of a nice sense of direction, then there comes a point not too far into the turning of the wheel when at speed that it seems to drop a gear in ratio and wants to turn in ever so much sharper. Does that description make sense, and is it the norm?


Adrian

QBee

22,464 posts

173 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
Does it feel less stable than your daily driver at speed?

When I got my TVR, I had a particular road I liked driving fast. My TVR felt dangerous on that road at a safe legal speed. My Saab felt safe at twice that speed.

So I discussed this with Mr Mat Smith, TVR & sports car expert of my previous parish, and he suggested a four wheel alignment and ride height check. Onto the ramp it went, suspension fully checked over, ride height corrected, then a full four wheel alignment on his Hunter machine.

Three hours later I was driving down my favourite road at Saab speeds, perfectly relaxed and having fun.

So if you haven't had a four wheel alignment by a TVR expert, I would consider one before changing anything else.....and discuss camber at the same time.

Big Ashy

492 posts

282 months

Thursday 9th June 2016
quotequote all
hillclimbmanic said:
ClassiChimi said:
I thought the Griff/then Chim chassis was developed from the S chassis which became the Tuscan race car chassis and included the cross section strenghtening bars as under the engine etc,,, wasn't the early Chim /griff chassis missing those strengthening bars?
So our cars existed as they tested the race car and added the extra strength to the production chassis after finding it wobble on track with the Tuscan!
Or is that complete tosh.

I seem to think I was told the early cars didn't have the stronger chassis,,, but it could still have been in development stage and before the cars were released to the public??

In a nut shell I'm trying to articulate the Chassis existed in our cars before the race car,,,,
If someone knows these details then feel free to correct me as I find it all very fascinating. smile
I thought that they originally planned on using the V8S chassis for the Griff, but with the intended hike in power, then turned to the tuscan racer chassis, and modified it, to accommodate the Griff body...

But - That's only my take on it.!! tongue out
Paul


Edited by hillclimbmanic on Thursday 9th June 07:45
The Griff and subsequent Chimaera were based on the Tuscan Challenge chassis and not the V8s which is a myth, all Griff chassis's were fundamentally the same from the 1st 4.0 production cars in 92 through to the last SEs in 2000. The factory test cars, press cars and prototypes from 90 to 92 had slightly different chassis's to the production cars and this is where I think the V8s theory comes about. The 1st prototype was a non runner V8s chassis with a Griff body bolted on, subsequent factory test cars were modified Tuscan Challenge chassis's.

Again this is all from what I have read or been informed of over the years, apologies in advance if this is not absolutely correct but I don't think it's far away thumbup

motul1974

Original Poster:

727 posts

168 months

Friday 10th June 2016
quotequote all
It feels very stable at any speed,its just that beyond a certain steering angle, the car feels like it wants to turn in so much sharper than the steering input. Just was wondering if thats a charactoristic or not? It'll have a geo set up at the end of the month along with the protechs, so just wondering what I should expect?

Adrian

QBee

22,464 posts

173 months

Friday 10th June 2016
quotequote all
motul1974 said:
It feels very stable at any speed,its just that beyond a certain steering angle, the car feels like it wants to turn in so much sharper than the steering input. Just was wondering if thats a charactoristic or not? It'll have a geo set up at the end of the month along with the protechs, so just wondering what I should expect?

Adrian
That's not something that I have noticed.
My car seems to go where I point it at all steering inputs, and that includes on anything up to full lock, including at speed.

taylormj4

1,635 posts

295 months

Friday 10th June 2016
quotequote all
QBee said:
That's not something that I have noticed.
My car seems to go where I point it at all steering inputs, and that includes on anything up to full lock, including at speed.
You go full lock at speed ? yikes

bobfather

11,197 posts

284 months

Friday 10th June 2016
quotequote all
taylormj4 said:
QBee said:
That's not something that I have noticed.
My car seems to go where I point it at all steering inputs, and that includes on anything up to full lock, including at speed.
You go full lock at speed ? yikes
Only if he's drifting

QBee

22,464 posts

173 months

Friday 10th June 2016
quotequote all
Not as fast......ha ha......obviously. But I do corner at speed.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xAZCOXpZCWY

The uphill left hander was 105mph in 4th gear.........you wouldn't do that if the car didn't go where you pointed it.
And the hairpin was at about 40 in second, full lock.
That must be my worst lap all day for missed apexes.... getmecoat


ClassiChimi

12,424 posts

178 months

Friday 10th June 2016
quotequote all
bobfather said:
Only if he's drifting
Drifting off hehe
Full lock, some Scandinavian flic,, hehe
I'm sure he doesn't mean full lock, maybe fully locked up,, but full lock? wink

Ab Shocks

1,686 posts

249 months

Thursday 16th June 2016
quotequote all
bobfather said:
Ride height is quite important as a first job because the suspension has unequal length wishbones. Rear 155mm, front 145mm outrigger corner to ground should give you horizontal lower wishbones

Rear
1.4 degrees neg camber
1.5mm toe in per side (12 minutes)
Front
3/4 of degree of neg camber
0.75mm toe in per side (6minutes)
This was the revised set-up sent to all the TVR dealers in 2005 and it's a great fast road setup IMHO
I do believe Supertracker and Neil were involved
I've set up about 200 cars with these settings and the customers seemed happy