Discussion
Morning all,
A bit of a dilemma here.
I was working on my car last night and I've noticed a weep of fluid coming from between the bell housing and the engine. My heart has well and truly sunk as I'm off to Le-Mans next Wednesday..........
So, do I tempt fate and go for it as is, or should I take the plunge and get busy with the spanners? I've seen the numerous guides on this forum and I'm pretty confident about doing the job, it's just the time pressure..........
Also, can you buy Raceproved slaves directly from them? I can't seem to find a website despite numerous searches.
Ta
Ian
A bit of a dilemma here.
I was working on my car last night and I've noticed a weep of fluid coming from between the bell housing and the engine. My heart has well and truly sunk as I'm off to Le-Mans next Wednesday..........
So, do I tempt fate and go for it as is, or should I take the plunge and get busy with the spanners? I've seen the numerous guides on this forum and I'm pretty confident about doing the job, it's just the time pressure..........
Also, can you buy Raceproved slaves directly from them? I can't seem to find a website despite numerous searches.
Ta
Ian
You could fit a remote reservoir to help you keep an eye on the levels 
Mine has been okay (no clutch outages) since I nipped up the nuts on the cap. Uses the equivalent of a master cylinder's worth of fluid every 6-8 weeks.
(That dump of hydraulic fluid in the dartford tunnel was me, hehe)

Mine has been okay (no clutch outages) since I nipped up the nuts on the cap. Uses the equivalent of a master cylinder's worth of fluid every 6-8 weeks.
(That dump of hydraulic fluid in the dartford tunnel was me, hehe)
If you'd done the job before, or the gearbox had been off during your ownership I would say go for it. But if it hasn't there are so many things to catch you out I would be inclined to just keep topping it up. If it's only just started to leak it should last for 1000 mile round trip assuming most of it is motorway. However if you were intending to do a track day that would be another matter altogether.
ukkid35 said:
If you'd done the job before, or the gearbox had been off during your ownership I would say go for it. But if it hasn't there are so many things to catch you out I would be inclined to just keep topping it up. If it's only just started to leak it should last for 1000 mile round trip assuming most of it is motorway. However if you were intending to do a track day that would be another matter altogether.
Owing to the time pressure I will be taking it to X Works on Friday morning. Better for Heath and Paul to sort it rather than me b*gger about with it in a cloud of blue. I can tackle most things but slowing down time isn't one of them and this weekend is devoted to my daughter and her birthday.In terms of the route we always try to stay off the major routes preferring a scenic blast down to and in France so it makes sense to get it sorted as it will see a lot of clutch action.
How many hours for a good Indy to do it do you reckon?
Thanks as always folks
Ian
billybradshaw said:
....
How many hours for a good Indy to do it do you reckon?
....
If you have a look at this thread on the second post Ridds said it took 4 - 5 hours.How many hours for a good Indy to do it do you reckon?
....
It took me 6 weeks


Right then, I've had another look under the car tonight.
Where the bell housing is mounted to the engine, there is a 6mm gap at the bottom through which I can see the teeth of the flywheel. The fluid that is weeping is on the engine side of this gap so presumably it can't therefore be the clutch slave and more likely to be the rear main oil seal.
Does this make sense or can the fluid from a leaky slave track it's way here there and everywhere?
Also, I'm no connoisseur of clutch fluid or engine oil and being colour blind I'm struggling to decide what the fluid is.
ta
Ian
Where the bell housing is mounted to the engine, there is a 6mm gap at the bottom through which I can see the teeth of the flywheel. The fluid that is weeping is on the engine side of this gap so presumably it can't therefore be the clutch slave and more likely to be the rear main oil seal.
Does this make sense or can the fluid from a leaky slave track it's way here there and everywhere?
Also, I'm no connoisseur of clutch fluid or engine oil and being colour blind I'm struggling to decide what the fluid is.
ta
Ian
CerbWill said:
If in doubt it'd be worth opening the master cylinder up and checking the fluid level.
Forgot to say that I checked the level and it does seem OK, just shy of brimming. That said, I don't know how much was in there in the first place.I'll check in the 'V' tonight for the oil pressure switch and gauge sender. I have replaced these over winter so it might be that they need nipping up.
Are the rear main seals a 'weak point' on 4.2 Cerbs?
Ta
Ian
billybradshaw said:
Forgot to say that I checked the level and it does seem OK, just shy of brimming. That said, I don't know how much was in there in the first place.
I'll check in the 'V' tonight for the oil pressure switch and gauge sender. I have replaced these over winter so it might be that they need nipping up.
Are the rear main seals a 'weak point' on 4.2 Cerbs?
Ta
Ian
Not a weak point but mine did weap slightly - did do for most of the ten years I've had it, until I got the seal changed when the clutch was changed recentlyI'll check in the 'V' tonight for the oil pressure switch and gauge sender. I have replaced these over winter so it might be that they need nipping up.
Are the rear main seals a 'weak point' on 4.2 Cerbs?
Ta
Ian
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