Crystal lights
Discussion
The crystal ones are not E marked so will theoretically not pass the MOT. But I've had them on my Mini for a few years now and had no problem on it or the TVR.
If you got the Wipac Quadoptic lights they are very good lights. Next step is the Modwise lighting kit for higher wattage bulbs.(Which are also technically illegal.)
If you got the Wipac Quadoptic lights they are very good lights. Next step is the Modwise lighting kit for higher wattage bulbs.(Which are also technically illegal.)
WildfireS3 said:
Next step is the Modwise lighting kit for higher wattage bulbs.(Which are also technically illegal.)
I've been trying to get Dave Beer(?) of Modwise to make me a lighting kit for ages now but it seems the whole Modwise thing is only a hobby and he is too busy... Shame 'cos I reckon it would have been £25 well spent.
I'm going to go for crystal lights as well but where is the keenest prices?
Simon
Hi Simon,
It's really easy to do yourself, just use the existing wiring to "switch" the relay and then take a feed from the battery or very near to it for the supply to the relay and lights. Don't forget to fit a fuse on this feed.
The result is that you'll have as close to 12v as possible at each bulb and a hugely increased light output and you can even uprate the bulbs without fear of cooking the wiring. You do the same for both sides (2 relays). But as Chris said, 55/60w is the maximum legal wattage you can fit but it's unlikely a MOT tester will take them out and check.
It's really easy to do yourself, just use the existing wiring to "switch" the relay and then take a feed from the battery or very near to it for the supply to the relay and lights. Don't forget to fit a fuse on this feed.
The result is that you'll have as close to 12v as possible at each bulb and a hugely increased light output and you can even uprate the bulbs without fear of cooking the wiring. You do the same for both sides (2 relays). But as Chris said, 55/60w is the maximum legal wattage you can fit but it's unlikely a MOT tester will take them out and check.
s1.5f said:
Next step is the Modwise lighting kit for higher wattage bulbs.(Which are also technically illegal.)
I've been trying to get Dave Beer(?) of Modwise to make me a lighting kit for ages now but it seems the whole Modwise thing is only a hobby and he is too busy... Shame 'cos I reckon it would have been £25 well spent.
I'm going to go for crystal lights as well but where is the keenest prices?
Simon
The only downside to the Crystal Halogens is that as the reflector is plastic, if you fit higher wattage bulbs then they will melt.
As Kevin says you can make your own, but if you are like me (a reluctat electrician aka electrical numpty) then it is easier to buy one.
KentishS2 said:
Hi Simon,
It's really easy to do yourself, just use the existing wiring to "switch" the relay and then take a feed from the battery or very near to it for the supply to the relay and lights. Don't forget to fit a fuse on this feed.
The result is that you'll have as close to 12v as possible at each bulb and a hugely increased light output and you can even uprate the bulbs without fear of cooking the wiring. You do the same for both sides (2 relays). But as Chris said, 55/60w is the maximum legal wattage you can fit but it's unlikely a MOT tester will take them out and check.
Any idea what type and rating of relay to use as there seem to be all different sorts; make/break, changeover, std on/off... and with differring numbers of pins. I'm trying to learn fast but my head is spinning!
The relay will have a contact for switching, a contact in for supply to the relay and a contact out to supply the lights.
A few basics first...
Wire has a set amperage, that is the maximum power that can be drawn down it. For example you could not power your headlights with the same wire you would use to feed your speakers. Wire is measured in strands and strand thickness which gives a nominal current draw. Here is am example, a roll of 14/0.30mm wire is 8.75amps, that means it has 14 strands of 0.30mm wire. The more strands you have the more current can be passed down it. Any wire must be fused between the supply (this is the battery) and the load (this is the object taking the power) and must be greater than the wires rating. You can calculate the required fuse with this formula: Wattage / Voltage = Amperage. This is best shown with spot lights, they are usually 55watts and the battery is 13.2 with the engine running, so divide 55 by 13.2 and you get 4.2, so an 8 amp fuse would be suitable for this lamp. Just remember each item on a line must be added together, so if you have 2 spot lights on the same feed you will need to double your figures, giving a maximum draw of 8.4 amps and therefore a bigger fuse and thicker wire.
A relay is a unit that allows a low power switch to turn on something that requires a much higher draw. A good example of this is a cheap plastic switch that comes with a set of spot lights. Without a relay the switch would burn out. As I mentioned before two 55 watt bulbs draw 8.4 amps and most plastic toggle switches can only cope with about 2 amps, so you fit a relay. The relay is only an electro magnet which when turned on makes a separate contact. This means that the low power circuit has no electrical contact with the high power circuit. A relay usually draws less than 1 amp so almost any switch will cope with this, and most relays can cope with about 30 amps.
I hope that helps.
A few basics first...
Wire has a set amperage, that is the maximum power that can be drawn down it. For example you could not power your headlights with the same wire you would use to feed your speakers. Wire is measured in strands and strand thickness which gives a nominal current draw. Here is am example, a roll of 14/0.30mm wire is 8.75amps, that means it has 14 strands of 0.30mm wire. The more strands you have the more current can be passed down it. Any wire must be fused between the supply (this is the battery) and the load (this is the object taking the power) and must be greater than the wires rating. You can calculate the required fuse with this formula: Wattage / Voltage = Amperage. This is best shown with spot lights, they are usually 55watts and the battery is 13.2 with the engine running, so divide 55 by 13.2 and you get 4.2, so an 8 amp fuse would be suitable for this lamp. Just remember each item on a line must be added together, so if you have 2 spot lights on the same feed you will need to double your figures, giving a maximum draw of 8.4 amps and therefore a bigger fuse and thicker wire.
A relay is a unit that allows a low power switch to turn on something that requires a much higher draw. A good example of this is a cheap plastic switch that comes with a set of spot lights. Without a relay the switch would burn out. As I mentioned before two 55 watt bulbs draw 8.4 amps and most plastic toggle switches can only cope with about 2 amps, so you fit a relay. The relay is only an electro magnet which when turned on makes a separate contact. This means that the low power circuit has no electrical contact with the high power circuit. A relay usually draws less than 1 amp so almost any switch will cope with this, and most relays can cope with about 30 amps.
I hope that helps.
s1.5f said:
Switching relays, sorry forgot to mention that in my waffle!
Gulp. Which I'm hoping are:
Electrical Components / Relays /
Std On/Off 4-pin 12v 30amp Relay
as opposed to:
Changeover 12v 30amp Relay
Standard on/off should be correct.
Changeover are for uses such as swapping power from one circuit to another or if for example you wanted a circuit live when the ignition is off but not when it is on etc.
Gents this was very well explained. If only he could be as lucid on the swirl pot and which cap it should have. 
bugsy said:
Which are the crystal lights? are they the ones that look blue when they come at you?
Bugsy, No it just relates to the lamp glass as per the photo the lens is smooth and the reflector has the contouring, the intense blue light are the v. expensive HID system fitted to BMW, Vaux Omegas etc
>> Edited by yellabelly on Monday 7th March 01:24
yellabelly said:
Which are the crystal lights? are they the ones that look blue when they come at you?
Bugsy, No it just relates to the lamp glass as per the photo the lens is smooth and the reflector has the contouring, the intense blue light are the v. expensive HID system fitted to BMW, Vaux Omegas etc
Oh well, perhaps when I scrap the Omega I could do a bodge, its nearly at 100k already.
>> Edited by yellabelly on Monday 7th March 01:24
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