DB9 Volante electrical woes
Discussion
I have a 2006 DB9 Volante (US version) and I was out today for a run to the shops in fairly hot weather (around 90F/32C). I had the top down.
The car ran fine on the outbound trip, although I thought I noticed a slight but unusual hesitation/stutter in the idle at traffic lights. After half an hour shopping, I restarted the car and began to head home, about a 20 minute drive. Almost immediately I heard a couple of "bongs" and noticed that the ABS warning light came on. Then the speedometer (both analogue and digital) and tachometer stopped working. The turn signals also failed.
When I arrived home, the convertible roof would not operate and I noted that my right turn signal was flashing (independently of the control stalk). When I turned the ignition off the turn signal stopped, but the nav screen stayed open and displayed my position. Also, the boot would not open with either the key fob or the external electric button.
This happened once last year, also on a hot day, but I replaced the battery and I didn't have the problem again. I assumed that the old battery was failing and released the gremlins. My current battery, however, is in good shape and I keep the car connected to a CTEK tender every night.
As the continued nav screen operation indicates that there is still current being drawn, I worried that the battery might discharge. Because I can't open the boot, I wired clips to the CTEK and connected it to the positive terminal and a ground under the bonnet. The CTEK shows the battery to be in good shape and taking a charge.
So...any suggestions?
Thanks!
<<UPDATE: 4 hours after getting home I decided to disconnect and reconnect the battery. Just as I was about to remove the last bolt from the battery cover, the nav screen retracted. I put the key in the ignition, pressed start, and all functions returned to normal. While I THINK that it was a coincidence and the car had just cooled off sufficiently, I'm going to check that there are no shorts or compressed conductors in the battery box area.>>
The car ran fine on the outbound trip, although I thought I noticed a slight but unusual hesitation/stutter in the idle at traffic lights. After half an hour shopping, I restarted the car and began to head home, about a 20 minute drive. Almost immediately I heard a couple of "bongs" and noticed that the ABS warning light came on. Then the speedometer (both analogue and digital) and tachometer stopped working. The turn signals also failed.
When I arrived home, the convertible roof would not operate and I noted that my right turn signal was flashing (independently of the control stalk). When I turned the ignition off the turn signal stopped, but the nav screen stayed open and displayed my position. Also, the boot would not open with either the key fob or the external electric button.
This happened once last year, also on a hot day, but I replaced the battery and I didn't have the problem again. I assumed that the old battery was failing and released the gremlins. My current battery, however, is in good shape and I keep the car connected to a CTEK tender every night.
As the continued nav screen operation indicates that there is still current being drawn, I worried that the battery might discharge. Because I can't open the boot, I wired clips to the CTEK and connected it to the positive terminal and a ground under the bonnet. The CTEK shows the battery to be in good shape and taking a charge.
So...any suggestions?
Thanks!
<<UPDATE: 4 hours after getting home I decided to disconnect and reconnect the battery. Just as I was about to remove the last bolt from the battery cover, the nav screen retracted. I put the key in the ignition, pressed start, and all functions returned to normal. While I THINK that it was a coincidence and the car had just cooled off sufficiently, I'm going to check that there are no shorts or compressed conductors in the battery box area.>>
Edited by Zuman on Sunday 12th June 02:58
One thing to note about the battery conditioners is that some are not really man enough to do more than maintain a normal system.
The old AML one only puts out 0.8A. That isn't enough to supply the power required to run your courtesy lights. Anything slightly out of the ordinary in terms of current drain and your SOL. Don't rely/assume its doing a good job.
I use the CTEK 5.0 which supplies, you guessed it, 5A. That can not only maintain, but charge and recover in a lot of cases. Worth thinking about something a bit more, beefy...
BTW, It doesn't sound like the battery is the cause but I'm no expert on AML gremlins!
The old AML one only puts out 0.8A. That isn't enough to supply the power required to run your courtesy lights. Anything slightly out of the ordinary in terms of current drain and your SOL. Don't rely/assume its doing a good job.
I use the CTEK 5.0 which supplies, you guessed it, 5A. That can not only maintain, but charge and recover in a lot of cases. Worth thinking about something a bit more, beefy...
BTW, It doesn't sound like the battery is the cause but I'm no expert on AML gremlins!
I had similar on my 9V when I was in Spain on tour. I had a combination of no instruments, not able to indicate, no brake lights, being told my brakes had failed, roof not working. After parking overnight was ok the next day but failed again by lunchtime, this time with the roof down but luckily we had covered parking that night. OK the next day, put the roof up, and all the systems said they had failed again after the lunchtime stop.
Anyway, long story short when we got back to the UK, with the help of friends guarding the front and back of us on the road, and it was the roof module that had gone. It appears that when the car has one problem the rest of the systems come out in sympathy. And there was me thinking the car had gone all continental on us and wanted a siesta in the afternoon
Hope that helps.
Anyway, long story short when we got back to the UK, with the help of friends guarding the front and back of us on the road, and it was the roof module that had gone. It appears that when the car has one problem the rest of the systems come out in sympathy. And there was me thinking the car had gone all continental on us and wanted a siesta in the afternoon
Hope that helps.
Thanks. I suspect the CRM, also.
Took the car to church today. After an hour in the sun it started fine, but within five minutes I received an interrupted roof movement message (even though the roof was fully closed) and the gauges and turn signals stopped working moments after.
She's cooling off now. I believe that high ambient heat triggers the problem with the CRM.
Took the car to church today. After an hour in the sun it started fine, but within five minutes I received an interrupted roof movement message (even though the roof was fully closed) and the gauges and turn signals stopped working moments after.
She's cooling off now. I believe that high ambient heat triggers the problem with the CRM.
All the signs of a Roof Module failing. Had the same issues on my car on a long drive down to the south of France. Stopped for fuel on a hot sunny day restarted car ok, but had all those issues you describe. Overnight hotel stay, car was back to normal until the next stop for fuel, same problem on restarting, but never recovered again until roof module was replaced.
Simple test is to disconnect the module and everything should be back to normal except the roof won't work.
Simple test is to disconnect the module and everything should be back to normal except the roof won't work.
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