Bleeding Clutch
Discussion
OK so which bits do I need to undo to bleed my clutch, is it the 14mm hex and the little rounded off square bit at the very end of the bleed pipe or the two hex parts need to be loosened off in order to bleed.
And yes my slave seals are on there way out it seems, never had an issue in 8 years and 50K miles and now they decide to leak:-(
Help as always much appreciated.
And yes my slave seals are on there way out it seems, never had an issue in 8 years and 50K miles and now they decide to leak:-(
Help as always much appreciated.
Hi, I'm in the final stages of doing my clutch seals and you're probably aware of the difficulties experienced getting the box back in again?
Up to you if you want to follow my suggestion.
When you take the gearbox away from the bell housing/ clutch plates, I suggest you leave the plates well alone so they remain in exactly the same position. This means NOT bleeding the clutch before you put the gearbox back in again. I bled mine and the plates moves upon pressing the pedal and were a nightmare form there on in!
My 10c!
Up to you if you want to follow my suggestion.
When you take the gearbox away from the bell housing/ clutch plates, I suggest you leave the plates well alone so they remain in exactly the same position. This means NOT bleeding the clutch before you put the gearbox back in again. I bled mine and the plates moves upon pressing the pedal and were a nightmare form there on in!
My 10c!
Seals will be done next week.
I was/am going to bleed the clutch with the box off so I can check for leaks when it is easy to take the whole thing apart again. I will however have someone sat in the car with their foot on the clutch when I come to put the box back in, that way the plates can move to the required position quite freely.
Also for bleeding it I understand it is imperative to fit the slave with the holes on the outer part in the 6 ans 12 o'clock position to allow the fluid in and air out.
I was/am going to bleed the clutch with the box off so I can check for leaks when it is easy to take the whole thing apart again. I will however have someone sat in the car with their foot on the clutch when I come to put the box back in, that way the plates can move to the required position quite freely.
Also for bleeding it I understand it is imperative to fit the slave with the holes on the outer part in the 6 ans 12 o'clock position to allow the fluid in and air out.
gruffalo said:
Seals will be done next week.
I was/am going to bleed the clutch with the box off so I can check for leaks when it is easy to take the whole thing apart again. I will however have someone sat in the car with their foot on the clutch when I come to put the box back in, that way the plates can move to the required position quite freely.
Also for bleeding it I understand it is imperative to fit the slave with the holes on the outer part in the 6 ans 12 o'clock position to allow the fluid in and air out.
DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES[ depress the clutch without an input shaft engaged.I was/am going to bleed the clutch with the box off so I can check for leaks when it is easy to take the whole thing apart again. I will however have someone sat in the car with their foot on the clutch when I come to put the box back in, that way the plates can move to the required position quite freely.
Also for bleeding it I understand it is imperative to fit the slave with the holes on the outer part in the 6 ans 12 o'clock position to allow the fluid in and air out.
It is far too much hassle than it is worth to re-engage the gearbox once the double-splined friction plates are out of line.
Bleed it in place. BASTA !!
Check Wolvesboy's story for confirmation.
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Sunday 19th June 18:11
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