Discussion
Calipers well always be around but discs do have advantages, namely for commuting and winter when as you say, salt on the roads contribute to ruin wear.
The newest high end carbon wheels and pads now offer excellent braking in the wet and far better heat dissipation compared to a few years ago though so I can't see the point in getting discs for a Sunday best type bike with posh wheels.
Not sure where you are looking but discs are everywhere now! Even the sspecialised tarmac and cervelo r3 have disc equipped models! They will be a feature of every brand's range.
Buy the disc frameset and build it up? You could easily do it for under 2k using wiggle, bike24 and bike-discount for parts. Does the CAAD have mud guard mounts? I know it will take race guards but they're a bit of a compromise.
Nice bikes though, gutted the world sold out of CAAD10s before I decided if I was as 54 or 56!
The newest high end carbon wheels and pads now offer excellent braking in the wet and far better heat dissipation compared to a few years ago though so I can't see the point in getting discs for a Sunday best type bike with posh wheels.
Not sure where you are looking but discs are everywhere now! Even the sspecialised tarmac and cervelo r3 have disc equipped models! They will be a feature of every brand's range.
Buy the disc frameset and build it up? You could easily do it for under 2k using wiggle, bike24 and bike-discount for parts. Does the CAAD have mud guard mounts? I know it will take race guards but they're a bit of a compromise.
Nice bikes though, gutted the world sold out of CAAD10s before I decided if I was as 54 or 56!
Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 21st June 19:55
https://www.cycledivision.co.uk/products/complete-...
Only in a silly small size, but I don't know how tall you are. Either way, pretty sure that with some digging a hydraulic version can be found d well under 2k.
Only in a silly small size, but I don't know how tall you are. Either way, pretty sure that with some digging a hydraulic version can be found d well under 2k.
Personally, unless I was doing big miles in the crap weather - you don't really ride in winter from memory? - I wouldn't bother. Get a decent set of cheap wheels and they'll last fine as long as you keep it vaguely clean after grit etc has got onto the pads. I've not gone through 4 sets of rims in 50,000 miles so not sure what you're doing with them.
Proper mudguards make a huge difference to the length of time things last in long spells of wet weather, consider this point.
And as Jimbo said, not the range of bikes for someone with back issues I doubt. I think good pads on rims are pretty good in most weather.
Proper mudguards make a huge difference to the length of time things last in long spells of wet weather, consider this point.
And as Jimbo said, not the range of bikes for someone with back issues I doubt. I think good pads on rims are pretty good in most weather.
okgo said:
Proper mudguards make a huge difference to the length of time things last in long spells of wet weather, consider this point.
Agree with you to an extent on the drivetrain, but not the brakes. If anything, brakes will wear faster because the water/crap stays closer to the rim.matt-ITR said:
Agree with you to an extent on the drivetrain, but not the brakes. If anything, brakes will wear faster because the water/crap stays closer to the rim.
That is possible though doubt it makes 'too' much difference, pads are only cheap anyway, but they will stay working properly for longer, I find brakes tend to really only get bad when the actual pivot starts becoming full with crap, which the guards can almost stop totally.CAAD12 with hydraulic discs - £1500.
https://www.evanscycles.com/cannondale-caad12-105-...
Please, STFU.
https://www.evanscycles.com/cannondale-caad12-105-...
Please, STFU.
Currently, between three rim-braked bikes, I have 10,000 miles (GPS) recorded. One of those bikes is nearly 20 years old and has seen action in South Wales and North Yorkshire (no stranger to hills), so has done an estimated 12,000 miles (conservative estimate too) on top of the GPS recorded miles, and is still on the original rims. They are starting to show signs wear now, but not yet close to needing replacement.
Aside from setting them up properly, the key to rim brakes is wiping off the grey sludge from the rims, and digging out any grit, or shards of aluminium from the rims. It's literally a five minute job once or twice a week. A wipe with damp kitchen roll cleans the rims (washing up water, usually) and a Stanley knife to dig out pad contaminants. Bosh! Job done, ride on.
I ride all weathers, and through winter. This past year is the first time I've used 'proper' road mudguards too - previously I used a bodged up pair of old MT Zefal clip-on MTB guards on the 'winter' steel bike. Aside from expected wear parts, the calipers are the only non-original component on that bike after (at least) 15,000 miles of hard riding.
This isn't meant as a dig at Dizeee or anyone else who has worn through rims, especially as my 20-year-old rims are almost certainly heavy and over-built, but I find it hard to see how a properly looked after bike will "eat rims" in any conditions. Even on my wife's 'used and abused' Raleigh Pioneer commute bike which very rarely saw any maintenance, the V-brake rims lasted around 6,000 miles. I won't enter the debate on 'rims v discs' right now, save to say that I love disc brakes on my MTB. I just can't (personally) see a situation on UK roads where (properly maintained and adjusted) rim brakes wouldn't be enough for me.
That said, if I ever have enough cash to justify one, I'll be getting a green-laner/gravel/adventure bike, preferably one with hydraulic discs. I just don't see the need out on the roads is all.
Aside from setting them up properly, the key to rim brakes is wiping off the grey sludge from the rims, and digging out any grit, or shards of aluminium from the rims. It's literally a five minute job once or twice a week. A wipe with damp kitchen roll cleans the rims (washing up water, usually) and a Stanley knife to dig out pad contaminants. Bosh! Job done, ride on.
I ride all weathers, and through winter. This past year is the first time I've used 'proper' road mudguards too - previously I used a bodged up pair of old MT Zefal clip-on MTB guards on the 'winter' steel bike. Aside from expected wear parts, the calipers are the only non-original component on that bike after (at least) 15,000 miles of hard riding.
This isn't meant as a dig at Dizeee or anyone else who has worn through rims, especially as my 20-year-old rims are almost certainly heavy and over-built, but I find it hard to see how a properly looked after bike will "eat rims" in any conditions. Even on my wife's 'used and abused' Raleigh Pioneer commute bike which very rarely saw any maintenance, the V-brake rims lasted around 6,000 miles. I won't enter the debate on 'rims v discs' right now, save to say that I love disc brakes on my MTB. I just can't (personally) see a situation on UK roads where (properly maintained and adjusted) rim brakes wouldn't be enough for me.
That said, if I ever have enough cash to justify one, I'll be getting a green-laner/gravel/adventure bike, preferably one with hydraulic discs. I just don't see the need out on the roads is all.
yellowjack said:
I just can't (personally) see a situation on UK roads where (properly maintained and adjusted) rim brakes wouldn't be enough for me.
If you commute regularly on big hills in wet weather, I can. I used to have a commute going over Caerphilly Mountain, that used to chew through brakes. In addition and I know this is non-UK, but a few years ago 2 of us cycled up Ventoux with touring gear. It was wet and horrible. The descent trashed the rear brakes on both our bikes, and chewed about half my front brakes off. You could hear the wet grit off the road chewing the pads and rims.IME you can use rim brakes if you wish, on road they work, but it's at the price of new rims every so often. My rims aren't expensive so it's not a problem but if I'd invested £500 in a set of wheels and then ripped them up on a wet descent I'd be a bit unhappy.
battered said:
If you commute regularly on big hills in wet weather, I can. I used to have a commute going over Caerphilly Mountain, that used to chew through brakes. In addition and I know this is non-UK, but a few years ago 2 of us cycled up Ventoux with touring gear. It was wet and horrible. The descent trashed the rear brakes on both our bikes, and chewed about half my front brakes off. You could hear the wet grit off the road chewing the pads and rims.
IME you can use rim brakes if you wish, on road they work, but it's at the price of new rims every so often. My rims aren't expensive so it's not a problem but if I'd invested £500 in a set of wheels and then ripped them up on a wet descent I'd be a bit unhappy.
I destroyed a set of £300 to replace rims on two rides with lots of very steep descent in filthy conditions. I will be getting some fulcrum 7's or some of these cheap as chips rims to replace.IME you can use rim brakes if you wish, on road they work, but it's at the price of new rims every so often. My rims aren't expensive so it's not a problem but if I'd invested £500 in a set of wheels and then ripped them up on a wet descent I'd be a bit unhappy.
http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/road-rim-b...
Other option is to sell my Roubaix frame as I also have been looking at the Caad12 disk.
COI: Have just 'gone disc' after 35y as a rimming Luddite - or something
I ride all year round and my experience is between the 20y per wheelset and trashed in 2 rides posters
In my opinion disc tech has only recently matured with hyraulics on road bikes - cable work but have limitations, mainly muchos tinkering with pad position, hydro are fit and forget
In winter I use a pair of wheels from the bargain bin of my local shop, they usually weigh a ton and get nice comments from my mates about how crap they are
My usual rides are universally hilly, 100m climb per 5km on average, and so Im on the brakes more than most
Winter wheels last me 5y or so until he braking surface looks dodgy when I bin them
If you are a half decent cyclist you can largely predict when you will need the anchors and ride accordingly
By that I mean reading the road and anticipating when cars may stop and block your path
In the January rain and sleet discs make things a lot more relaxing and predictable
The other biggie as mentioned is that I now have clearance for 30mm tyres and proper mudguards which make another massive difference especially in winter
Crudracer white noise generators and 23mm 4 Seasons are just not the same
So for me its discs all the way in winter with tractor tyres and granny mudguards
The summer bike has been to the Alps and Pyrenees many times and is perfect with rim brakes
Cheers
Sort of on topic. I had to get a cheap pair of wheels in for someone. Std clincher rim brake jobbies, so tried a £70 (delivered) pair of Cosines from Wiggle (their own brand). Bloody good for the money! On a par with Aksiums or Racing 7s for sure and a helluva lot lighter and stiffer than the OE Giants which were breaking a spoke every ride. Hassle free sealed bearings.
Good winter wheels.
Good winter wheels.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Even though I rarely clean my bike in winter I do make an effort of a quick wipe of the rims and brake pads every now and again (maybe once every 1-2 weeks) and get about 20,000 miles out a set of cheap wheels.Also generally with racing cyclists they do more miles/hours in the winter than summer and 34 hour months aren't big at all compared to most people I know .Its often seen as the time to 'build endurance' where as summer is used for racing or short harder efforts.
A CAAD12 makes no sense in your position. You already have 2 summer bikes (well, bikes that don't have guard mounts) and back issues IIRC? Therefore the sensible option would be a bike with more relaxed geometry and that takes guards.
I would go for this in your situation : https://www.evanscycles.com/pinnacle-dolomite-6-20...
I have a similar bike (Pyrolite with cable discs) and aside from being pretty heavy, it's a good do-it-all bike.
I would go for this in your situation : https://www.evanscycles.com/pinnacle-dolomite-6-20...
I have a similar bike (Pyrolite with cable discs) and aside from being pretty heavy, it's a good do-it-all bike.
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