acusump supply is dead
Discussion
Can't help you on that one, there's to much noise going on, fuel pump, imobiliser, CD player etc. etc.
Don't wory about it for now as you will not be going fast round corners for a while yet.
The Accusump will fill even with the valve closed so bear that in mind when you start up as 6 pints of your oil are going to disapear from the engine. You may want to put some, but not all, the extra in before you start up.
Has the engine been run? If yes then how long ago? If it's some time then you may want to prime the oil system first either by turning the engine over or better still by pulling the dizzy and using a priming tool in the Black & Decker. If this is its first run then it MUST be primed and only with the tool down the dizzy hole.
When you switch off the engine you should be able to see that you still have pressure in the Accusump and that it releases when you put the ignition on again.
Steve
Don't wory about it for now as you will not be going fast round corners for a while yet.
The Accusump will fill even with the valve closed so bear that in mind when you start up as 6 pints of your oil are going to disapear from the engine. You may want to put some, but not all, the extra in before you start up.
Has the engine been run? If yes then how long ago? If it's some time then you may want to prime the oil system first either by turning the engine over or better still by pulling the dizzy and using a priming tool in the Black & Decker. If this is its first run then it MUST be primed and only with the tool down the dizzy hole.
When you switch off the engine you should be able to see that you still have pressure in the Accusump and that it releases when you put the ignition on again.
Steve
hi Steve,engine has been primed and turned over with oil pressure ,have not started yet but am getting close ,have got exhaust back from polisher so will get them all fitted over the next few days then will be ready to fire it up 
will only run engine for a couple of mins then check oil and water levels,how long do i need to run for acusump to fil ? Simon
will only run engine for a couple of mins then check oil and water levels,how long do i need to run for acusump to fil ? Simontuxman said:
hi Steve,engine has been primed and turned over with oil pressure ,have not started yet but am getting close ,have got exhaust back from polisher so will get them all fitted over the next few days then will be ready to fire it up
Your begining to worry me.
Has the engine ever been run since build?
If not, then there are very specific things you must do to break it in. You must not start it and run it for a few minutes or you will lunch the camshaft. You should also not have been turning it over.
The Accusump will fill in seconds. If it didn't then it would also not be able to empty fast enough to save an engine.
Steve
hi steve , when i built engine myself my bits supplyer told me to run engine at 2000 rpm for about 20 min to bed in cam ,tom newman new engine builder has said not to do that but to only run for 5 mins then let cool down and check for leeks then run up to normal temp approx 10 to 15 mins at low rpm then run in on road approx 1000 miles, i can only do as he has told me .what do you think? engine has been turned over for a few seconds just to check everything works.i will try to start it tomorrow night would be greatful for your advice .Simon
>> Edited by tuxman on Monday 7th March 20:09
>> Edited by tuxman on Monday 7th March 20:09
read this article:
www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I believe this guy is right - for sure I will follow his recommendations for the break-in of my new motor, as soon as weather gets better. To let the engine run for 20 min. at low rpm is probably the worst thing you can do, concerning ring seal (and oil consumption later on). Don´t know about cam break-in, though.
Out of own experience: if you don´t get the break-in right, your Small Block will be an oil burner for all its life.
www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I believe this guy is right - for sure I will follow his recommendations for the break-in of my new motor, as soon as weather gets better. To let the engine run for 20 min. at low rpm is probably the worst thing you can do, concerning ring seal (and oil consumption later on). Don´t know about cam break-in, though.
Out of own experience: if you don´t get the break-in right, your Small Block will be an oil burner for all its life.
tuxman said:
hi steve , when i built engine myself my bits supplyer told me to run engine at 2000 rpm for about 20 min to bed in cam ,tom newman new engine builder has said not to do that but to only run for 5 mins then let cool down and check for leeks then run up to normal temp approx 10 to 15 mins at low rpm then run in on road approx 1000 miles, i can only do as he has told me .what do you think? engine has been turned over for a few seconds just to check everything works.i will try to start it tomorrow night would be greatful for your advice .Simon
>> Edited by tuxman on Monday 7th March 20:09
The cam should have been absolutely plastered in cam lube ready for the start so turning it over will have wiped most of it away.
If you go to chevytalk.com and ask if you should start it up and let it tick over you will get buried in replies IN CAPITAL LETTERS telling you what a bad idea that would be.
Harsh as it may sound 'Breaking' in the cam is just that. The cam profiles we use in these performance engines are high lift and high rate of lift and the laws of mechanics are not in their favour. The slow revs can allow the metal surfaces to weld themselves together and then rip apart. It does not take long before you have no lobe left.
The Dyno Peter Knight runs has a program in it that brings the revs up, loads the engine slightly with the dyno brake, releases the load and lets the revs drop again before doing the whole sequence again. When he tested my engine it did that for 20 minutes while we had lunch.
With the engine in you have no option but to go for it. If it were still on the stand I would say drop the sump and apply more lube to the cam.
2000 for 20 minutes is the norm so an evening will not go down well with the neighbours, better to have a sicky and do it during the day. You should vary the revs during that time but don’t let it drop below 1500. Make sure you have someone with you when you start as you will not be able to get in or out of the car and keep the revs up, someone will need to hold the throttle at the carb until you can adjust the idle stop screw.
Later the advice is to ‘slam the hood’ and drive it hard up a hill. This is fine for an old multi ton Chevy but an Ultima just takes off no matter how steep a hill you find.
It’s a tense time for you but if you doubt what I say please visit chevytalk. The moderator, Grumpyvette, has seen it all, done it all, and designed the T-shirt.
You will not truly enjoy your engine start-up until some hours later when the adrenalin stops pumping, the grin will take much longer to dissipate.
Good luck
Steve
Will check back at about 23.00 if you want to know more.
Ken
Have a look behind your fuse box and you will find a pink/white wire and a brown/blue that are loose and have a piggy back connector.
Take out the two green wires on the left of the fuse box and put the pink/white and brown/blue wire in their place . Then piggy back the green wires to them.
The pink/white is the feed to the accusump and the brown/blue to the radio.
Best regards
Ted
This is an Email from Ted when I had the same questions that you have. If you send me your email address I'll send you the photo that he sent me with it.
Ken
Have a look behind your fuse box and you will find a pink/white wire and a brown/blue that are loose and have a piggy back connector.
Take out the two green wires on the left of the fuse box and put the pink/white and brown/blue wire in their place . Then piggy back the green wires to them.
The pink/white is the feed to the accusump and the brown/blue to the radio.
Best regards
Ted
This is an Email from Ted when I had the same questions that you have. If you send me your email address I'll send you the photo that he sent me with it.
Ken
hi ken thanks for reply have got acusump working i hope. Steve can you exsplain to me why it has to be reved for so long at 2000 rpm is there not enough oil presure to protect cam at 1000 rpm what part of the cam has to bed in sorry for all the questions just trying to get it right in my head starting to get very nervous!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! what if engine takes a long while to start will cranking it over on starter motor cause any problems my old engine used to read 2 bar pressure at tickover is this enough? Simon
It's called breaking the cam in. Its not for the oil pressure, its to keep the loading on the cam minimised and also to ensure suffient oil gets thrown up on the cam to keep it lubed. If you have a problem (leaking/overheating) just turn the engine straight off to investigate. On restart complete the rest of the 20 mins at 2k again.
tuxman said:
hi Gaz hows car fancy a ride saturday morning need someone to hold fire exstinguisher!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Simon
Would'nt mind Simon, except I still have'nt got my car back from being tuned!
If I get it before Sat I'll let you know.
Gary
Hi
Eliot has said it all.
We have much higher spring rates than a standard engine. This puts a high load on the contact between cam and follower (lifter); this load tries to weld the faces together. The high revs keep the faces moving and thrashes plenty of oil onto the surfaces.
This is also why I said to add some extra oil so there is still plenty in the engine during this critical time.
There would also be some merit in taking the Accusump and oil cooler out of the circuit for this period to…. 1. Reduce the amount of oil you will have to throw away after the initial break-in (you are using cheap mineral oil for this aren't you?) and…. 2. If the worst happens and the cam goes you will need to replace the cooler as I'm told they are almost impossible to clean out any metal particles and the Accusump would need to be dismantled and cleaned.
The instructions for my Comp Cams camshaft say 1500 to 2000 for 30 minutes then change the oil and filter. They also say to vary the revs to splash oil onto other areas of the camshaft.
Steve
Edit. Comp Cams also recommend taking one of the springs out if fitted with double springs to reduce the load.
>> Edited by steve_D on Wednesday 9th March 22:30
Eliot has said it all.
We have much higher spring rates than a standard engine. This puts a high load on the contact between cam and follower (lifter); this load tries to weld the faces together. The high revs keep the faces moving and thrashes plenty of oil onto the surfaces.
This is also why I said to add some extra oil so there is still plenty in the engine during this critical time.
There would also be some merit in taking the Accusump and oil cooler out of the circuit for this period to…. 1. Reduce the amount of oil you will have to throw away after the initial break-in (you are using cheap mineral oil for this aren't you?) and…. 2. If the worst happens and the cam goes you will need to replace the cooler as I'm told they are almost impossible to clean out any metal particles and the Accusump would need to be dismantled and cleaned.
The instructions for my Comp Cams camshaft say 1500 to 2000 for 30 minutes then change the oil and filter. They also say to vary the revs to splash oil onto other areas of the camshaft.
Steve
Edit. Comp Cams also recommend taking one of the springs out if fitted with double springs to reduce the load.
>> Edited by steve_D on Wednesday 9th March 22:30
ok guys tomorrows the big day oil is topped up fuel is ok battery is charged 3 fire exs are ready ,all posts have been printed off and will be read over and over again . have told wife no sex before start up will go to bed early with co co ,i,m still abit nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnervous but will pray to the big engine builder in the sky for a easy run in . Simon 
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