Managed To Get My First Chimaera Home But.....
Discussion
.....there are a couple of issues.
Morning all! As you may know, if you were following one of my previous threads, I noticed that the weep hole on the water pump was passing slightly when I went to look at a Chim to potentially purchase. I bought it and I drove it the 100 miles home last night, after much deliberation and making sure the expansion tank was topped up to the seam half way up and I had plenty of water / coolant with me just in case. Having looked at the water pump at several intervals the water pump wasn't passing from the weep hole, or anywhere, and the temperature didn't go above 80 degrees on the entire journey home and usually hovered in the high 70s, so I continued on my merry way.
This morning, I checked the expansion tank and it was down below the outlet at the bottom. Hoping I haven't introduced air into the system and caused hot spots :/
Also, the car was cutting out when ticking over for more than about 20 to 30 seconds. It started again immediately. Lots of toe and heeling at stop start speeds was required!
Any ideas or things to check on either the water loss or the stalling? Or perhaps they are connected? I'm thinking that the passing from the weep hole is intermittent. I am pretty mechanically minded (although have only learned my trade on old Minis!) so hoping to sort it myself rather than go to a specialist within the first week of ownership!
Cheers guys!
Pete
Morning all! As you may know, if you were following one of my previous threads, I noticed that the weep hole on the water pump was passing slightly when I went to look at a Chim to potentially purchase. I bought it and I drove it the 100 miles home last night, after much deliberation and making sure the expansion tank was topped up to the seam half way up and I had plenty of water / coolant with me just in case. Having looked at the water pump at several intervals the water pump wasn't passing from the weep hole, or anywhere, and the temperature didn't go above 80 degrees on the entire journey home and usually hovered in the high 70s, so I continued on my merry way.
This morning, I checked the expansion tank and it was down below the outlet at the bottom. Hoping I haven't introduced air into the system and caused hot spots :/
Also, the car was cutting out when ticking over for more than about 20 to 30 seconds. It started again immediately. Lots of toe and heeling at stop start speeds was required!
Any ideas or things to check on either the water loss or the stalling? Or perhaps they are connected? I'm thinking that the passing from the weep hole is intermittent. I am pretty mechanically minded (although have only learned my trade on old Minis!) so hoping to sort it myself rather than go to a specialist within the first week of ownership!
Cheers guys!
Pete
I should also mention that it is shunting below around 1800rpm. Although I wasn't sure if they all did that.
The coolant temperature sensor was replaced a few weeks ago due to the same stalling and shunting symptoms and the vendor, in fairness, thought that the problem was then sorted.
Peter
The coolant temperature sensor was replaced a few weeks ago due to the same stalling and shunting symptoms and the vendor, in fairness, thought that the problem was then sorted.
Peter
My experience of leaking water pumps on other cars is that they tend not to leak so much when hot and then leak when cooled.
Im guessing its the expansion when hot that limits the leaking and the fact the coolant is circulating more, i may be wrong.
If you search for stepper motor problems you will see plenty of info on this, it would be a good place to start.
Im guessing its the expansion when hot that limits the leaking and the fact the coolant is circulating more, i may be wrong.
If you search for stepper motor problems you will see plenty of info on this, it would be a good place to start.
Pete
If you change the water pump yourself then be careful and don't do what I did - snap a bolt off in the block. As they go through the oil pump housing before screwing into the block, I had to do a front-end strip down (sump off, exhaust y-piece, cross-member, distributor, front crank pully etc). Even then I couldn't get the remains of the bolt out and ended up sending it to David Geralds for their help. My pocket was around £2k lighter when I got it back. Even then they managed to damage the new crank oil seal, which would send oil all over the front of the engine - just fixed that plus some ignition electrics (another £500 lighter!). Sigh. On the face of it it's a simple job but just go easy on those bolts!
Lee
If you change the water pump yourself then be careful and don't do what I did - snap a bolt off in the block. As they go through the oil pump housing before screwing into the block, I had to do a front-end strip down (sump off, exhaust y-piece, cross-member, distributor, front crank pully etc). Even then I couldn't get the remains of the bolt out and ended up sending it to David Geralds for their help. My pocket was around £2k lighter when I got it back. Even then they managed to damage the new crank oil seal, which would send oil all over the front of the engine - just fixed that plus some ignition electrics (another £500 lighter!). Sigh. On the face of it it's a simple job but just go easy on those bolts!
Lee
Pete, what engine size do you have, what year car etc, pre serp engine or serp as the water pump has a slightly different housing.
If your mechanically savvi, undo the brass plug at the top of the swirl pot when engines fully cold and try to see how much water is missing, the natural level is either fully to the top of the bottle or on some cars it settles about and inch below the threads.
Determine how much water has disappeared before moving on,
Because the CUX ingnition and fuelling system uses the sensors to adjust many things if the temp sensor is playing up or you've got air in the system it can play havoc with idle etc.
There's some good videos on YouTube etc showing how to replace the pump (and the two bolts that run through the water jacket and into the block) Range Rover I think but it's the same process.
Check the cross members below the water pump on the lower chassis rails, should feel,sticky if you've had coolant and anti freeze dripping down there.
Check there's no water in the pass footwell, ( heater matrix ) is situated up above pass footwell and to the left under dash area.
Ideally you want about 40% antifreeze mix so the water should be a clear but darkish closer, I'm sure it is so no panic,
This alone helps keep the hot spot water issues down to a minimum so it's quite important as the temp sensor is situated in the very area these hotspots occur.
As you've only just got the car maybe check the history file for any evidence of a thermostat change, all clues
If your mechanically savvi, undo the brass plug at the top of the swirl pot when engines fully cold and try to see how much water is missing, the natural level is either fully to the top of the bottle or on some cars it settles about and inch below the threads.
Determine how much water has disappeared before moving on,
Because the CUX ingnition and fuelling system uses the sensors to adjust many things if the temp sensor is playing up or you've got air in the system it can play havoc with idle etc.
There's some good videos on YouTube etc showing how to replace the pump (and the two bolts that run through the water jacket and into the block) Range Rover I think but it's the same process.
Check the cross members below the water pump on the lower chassis rails, should feel,sticky if you've had coolant and anti freeze dripping down there.
Check there's no water in the pass footwell, ( heater matrix ) is situated up above pass footwell and to the left under dash area.
Ideally you want about 40% antifreeze mix so the water should be a clear but darkish closer, I'm sure it is so no panic,
This alone helps keep the hot spot water issues down to a minimum so it's quite important as the temp sensor is situated in the very area these hotspots occur.
As you've only just got the car maybe check the history file for any evidence of a thermostat change, all clues
Edited by ClassiChimi on Tuesday 5th July 10:56
Steve_D said:
Your initial water leak may just have been lack of use with corrosion on the shaft and seal which has now gone.
Your best plan with the rest is to invest in a RoverGauge lead and check all your sensors etc are working properly, again lack of use may have been an issue.
Steve
Hi PeterYour best plan with the rest is to invest in a RoverGauge lead and check all your sensors etc are working properly, again lack of use may have been an issue.
Steve
I would very much go along with what Steve says, these cars need regular use to keep them in the sweet spot so do not be afraid to use it, the only real issue you have which could become a major problem is the water leak which may have sorted itself out - so top back up, bleed the system and enjoy, periodically checking for leaks on the way and then keep checking the water level - do not go too far 100 miles max until you are satisfied you have no leaks and the water level settled down to its natural level.
Over the next few hundred miles the shunting may sort itself, mine gets a bit shunty sometimes, but is better after an Italian Tune Up
Tip regarding the stalling, get the car up to temp and when steady tickover is achieved and while running disconnect the stepper motor - if it then runs and ticksover fine the issue is within the stepper motor or the system that controls it, if not look elsewhere. The car will start from cold without the stepper motor connected, the ecu throws enough fuel in to start, just need a foot on the gas until warm.
Andy
Andy
Don't want to piss on the parade, but the coolant gauges in these cars are notoriously inaccurate. I'd get it plugged in (or download Rovergauge and do it yourself) and make sure 80 degrees is actually 80 degrees, as if it was overheating due to a lack of pressure in the coolant system for a prolonged period of time, there could be trouble ahead.
I've had cars before that don't show 80 degrees until they're well past 100. Rare cases, but I'd check it out all the same.
I've had cars before that don't show 80 degrees until they're well past 100. Rare cases, but I'd check it out all the same.
Hi everyone,
Thanks for the advice and info, all very interesting for someone who is keen to absorb as much info as possible.
My car is a 1998 4.0 (non-HC) serpentine. (I actually don't know yet how to identify serp and non-serp by the belt arrangement but have confirmed it is a serp from the water pump type.
Loving ownership so far, despite the water leak and stalling issues. Out with the roof down last night and just burbling (and sometimes roaring....) was so much fun. Fabulous feeling every beat of that V8 with the sleeved silencer. What a wonderful experience!
The water leak seems to have totally stopped and no water has been lost throughout the course of yesterday, so about 70 miles, made up of around 3 equal journeys with time to cool off in between, so plenty of time to check if it's leaking when hot or cold, yet it did neither. So I am happy about that. I'd imagine you may be correct Steve, so fingers crossed. I'll keep an eye on it and bleed the air out of it and check the level again etc.
Stalling is intermittent. It did it most of the time after around 20 seconds or so of ticking over but there were a few occasions yesterday where it ticked over for a minute or so at lights etc without stalling and the revs being stable before I pulled off no problem. I will check out those tests you recommended Andy. Sounds like a good process of elimination.
I will be downloading Rovergauge and getting the lead though. Sounds like a good piece of kit to have.
Pete
Thanks for the advice and info, all very interesting for someone who is keen to absorb as much info as possible.
My car is a 1998 4.0 (non-HC) serpentine. (I actually don't know yet how to identify serp and non-serp by the belt arrangement but have confirmed it is a serp from the water pump type.
Loving ownership so far, despite the water leak and stalling issues. Out with the roof down last night and just burbling (and sometimes roaring....) was so much fun. Fabulous feeling every beat of that V8 with the sleeved silencer. What a wonderful experience!
The water leak seems to have totally stopped and no water has been lost throughout the course of yesterday, so about 70 miles, made up of around 3 equal journeys with time to cool off in between, so plenty of time to check if it's leaking when hot or cold, yet it did neither. So I am happy about that. I'd imagine you may be correct Steve, so fingers crossed. I'll keep an eye on it and bleed the air out of it and check the level again etc.
Stalling is intermittent. It did it most of the time after around 20 seconds or so of ticking over but there were a few occasions yesterday where it ticked over for a minute or so at lights etc without stalling and the revs being stable before I pulled off no problem. I will check out those tests you recommended Andy. Sounds like a good process of elimination.
I will be downloading Rovergauge and getting the lead though. Sounds like a good piece of kit to have.
Pete
She looks a cracker Pete.
I hope I didn't sound pessimistic but keeping the temps in order is rather important as I'm sure you know.
If you had water coming from the weep hole it's only a matter of time before it starts again in my opinion so just keep an eye on it.
There's some highly skilled technicians on here and a chap called Blitzracing is someone who understands our engine management system CUX in detail, if your happy with the water system and you still have idle issues, reading his posts and replies to many of the idle issues people suffer will be of great benefit to you as you look for the causes.
Driving these beasts is an event, a form of addiction that's hard to beat,
It's like been thrown into the greatest kids toy and being told have fun, it's the ultimate roller coaster that you are experiencing and controlling with your ass and finger tips, watch for bumps in the road with a Hawks eye as they upset the rear and never try flooring it off a slow corner,, other than that they are safe
Having had Mini's I already have a deep respect sir so as you've obviously got a lovely Chimaera get out there and let the world know TVR is alive and kicking.
Engine bay pics Pete, hey mate, just enjoy the car
I hope I didn't sound pessimistic but keeping the temps in order is rather important as I'm sure you know.
If you had water coming from the weep hole it's only a matter of time before it starts again in my opinion so just keep an eye on it.
There's some highly skilled technicians on here and a chap called Blitzracing is someone who understands our engine management system CUX in detail, if your happy with the water system and you still have idle issues, reading his posts and replies to many of the idle issues people suffer will be of great benefit to you as you look for the causes.
Driving these beasts is an event, a form of addiction that's hard to beat,
It's like been thrown into the greatest kids toy and being told have fun, it's the ultimate roller coaster that you are experiencing and controlling with your ass and finger tips, watch for bumps in the road with a Hawks eye as they upset the rear and never try flooring it off a slow corner,, other than that they are safe
Having had Mini's I already have a deep respect sir so as you've obviously got a lovely Chimaera get out there and let the world know TVR is alive and kicking.
Engine bay pics Pete, hey mate, just enjoy the car
Serp Vs pre-Serp.
Look at your auxiliary belt - it goes all over the place and is a wide, grooved belt, passing around the tensioner, alternator, water pump, power steering pump, crankshaft pulley etc. Make sure that yours is wrapped around the alternator pulley by more than 90 degrees, to get a proper grip on it. In other words, after the alternator it goes down to the water pump and then up to the PS pump. It is perfectly possible to fit it alternator, across to PS pump, down to water pump. This risks it slipping on the alternator, and you running out of electrons in the middle of nowhere.
If you ever see a pre-serp (early cars up to about 94), it will have a short triangular cross section belt (like the old Minis), that just runs in a triangular path, no tensioner and no power steering pump.
Look at your auxiliary belt - it goes all over the place and is a wide, grooved belt, passing around the tensioner, alternator, water pump, power steering pump, crankshaft pulley etc. Make sure that yours is wrapped around the alternator pulley by more than 90 degrees, to get a proper grip on it. In other words, after the alternator it goes down to the water pump and then up to the PS pump. It is perfectly possible to fit it alternator, across to PS pump, down to water pump. This risks it slipping on the alternator, and you running out of electrons in the middle of nowhere.
If you ever see a pre-serp (early cars up to about 94), it will have a short triangular cross section belt (like the old Minis), that just runs in a triangular path, no tensioner and no power steering pump.
Sounds good Alun, I will check out Blitzracing's posts. Been very busy in the evenings this week and got an exam on Wednesday, so this weekend is all about my head being in my books I will try and get some photos though, including engine bay! The interior is lovely as it had a re-trim a few years ago so is pretty much immaculate. Everything to do with the car is an event for me. Looking at it, sitting in it, driving in it, putting the cover on it (the Leven one is very, very good).
Thanks QBee, serps are clearly very different looking than pre-serp then and they are clearly identifiable. Cheers for the info.
Pete
I will try and get some photos though, including engine bay! The interior is lovely as it had a re-trim a few years ago so is pretty much immaculate. Everything to do with the car is an event for me. Looking at it, sitting in it, driving in it, putting the cover on it (the Leven one is very, very good). Thanks QBee, serps are clearly very different looking than pre-serp then and they are clearly identifiable. Cheers for the info.
Pete
Goodluck with the exam, you now own the car,,,, take as long as you like,,,, calm concentration is a must when driving a Tvr, use those skills in your exam,
A new interior is a very expensive business so that's a major + and allows you to concentrate on the rest, she looks a really nice car
May your Tvr ownership be long and loud mate.
take as long as you like,,,, calm concentration is a must when driving a Tvr, use those skills in your exam, A new interior is a very expensive business so that's a major + and allows you to concentrate on the rest, she looks a really nice car
May your Tvr ownership be long and loud mate.
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