Discussion
My 2000 S with only 65k on it started to be silly t'other day. After a good 45 mins blast driving along I gave it some beans and the clutch slipped......eased back and then accelerated medium again, slipped.....Bugger. took it easy for the remaining 5 mins home. Car smelt hot.
Havent been out in it yet.
Clutch pedal wasn't heavy, slips in/out of gear easy.
Is my clutch fried? Is there an easy check.....apart give it some beans and see if it slips again.
IF I need to replace it, whats the damage going to be? I do know a competent mech who will charge say 10 an hr!! With me as a willing assistant.
cheers
mike
Havent been out in it yet.
Clutch pedal wasn't heavy, slips in/out of gear easy.
Is my clutch fried? Is there an easy check.....apart give it some beans and see if it slips again.
IF I need to replace it, whats the damage going to be? I do know a competent mech who will charge say 10 an hr!! With me as a willing assistant.
cheers
mike
Edited by mikal83 on Tuesday 12th July 16:55
Clutch kit of course. Not sure what the consensus is on the DMF, may be OK.
Once in there however I would definitely replace at least 2 oil seals - the gearbox input shaft, and the engine output. Huge pita to have to replace these in future.
Consider also the gearbox output flange oil seals (the seals for the cv joint flanges or whatever one would refer to them as) with the box out of the car, so convenient, although they can be replaced without major surgery in future, so you decide, perhaps based on any leaks or otherwise. And if any cv boots are iffy why not.
Also check the pilot bearing, if it's been there a considerable number of miles, best replaced too, and closely inspect the clutch slave, you will never have such good access to it.
Be prepared to deal with any corrosion around the tranny tunnel too.
Once in there however I would definitely replace at least 2 oil seals - the gearbox input shaft, and the engine output. Huge pita to have to replace these in future.
Consider also the gearbox output flange oil seals (the seals for the cv joint flanges or whatever one would refer to them as) with the box out of the car, so convenient, although they can be replaced without major surgery in future, so you decide, perhaps based on any leaks or otherwise. And if any cv boots are iffy why not.
Also check the pilot bearing, if it's been there a considerable number of miles, best replaced too, and closely inspect the clutch slave, you will never have such good access to it.
Be prepared to deal with any corrosion around the tranny tunnel too.
Because it is recommended. BMW are the same.
They will look at its surface when the clutch is out, but bear in mind you can't machine a DMF. Secondly there is a deflection measurement from the centre point i.e. how far it twists from it centre point, if it twists too far it is stuffed. Have you experienced any shudder in 1st or reverse by chance?
They will look at its surface when the clutch is out, but bear in mind you can't machine a DMF. Secondly there is a deflection measurement from the centre point i.e. how far it twists from it centre point, if it twists too far it is stuffed. Have you experienced any shudder in 1st or reverse by chance?
NBTBRV8 said:
Because it is recommended. BMW are the same.
They will look at its surface when the clutch is out, but bear in mind you can't machine a DMF. Secondly there is a deflection measurement from the centre point i.e. how far it twists from it centre point, if it twists too far it is stuffed. Have you experienced any shudder in 1st or reverse by chance?
You can machine/resurface a DMF. Even Porsche dealer (OPC) techs send a DMF out for resurfacing as long as the DMF checks out fine otherwise.They will look at its surface when the clutch is out, but bear in mind you can't machine a DMF. Secondly there is a deflection measurement from the centre point i.e. how far it twists from it centre point, if it twists too far it is stuffed. Have you experienced any shudder in 1st or reverse by chance?
The important thing is to avoid driving the car with a slipping clutch as this just overheats the DMF and can ruin an otherwise reusable DMF. The overheating can will result in hard spots forming and these may be too deep to be removed by a light resurfacing. Hard spots result in a grabby/shuddery clutch engagement so the tech will recommend replacement and in this he is correct.
Rockster said:
You can machine/resurface a DMF. Even Porsche dealer (OPC) techs send a DMF out for resurfacing as long as the DMF checks out fine otherwise.
The important thing is to avoid driving the car with a slipping clutch as this just overheats the DMF and can ruin an otherwise reusable DMF. The overheating can will result in hard spots forming and these may be too deep to be removed by a light resurfacing. Hard spots result in a grabby/shuddery clutch engagement so the tech will recommend replacement and in this he is correct.
Maybe you can, but you shouldn't.The important thing is to avoid driving the car with a slipping clutch as this just overheats the DMF and can ruin an otherwise reusable DMF. The overheating can will result in hard spots forming and these may be too deep to be removed by a light resurfacing. Hard spots result in a grabby/shuddery clutch engagement so the tech will recommend replacement and in this he is correct.
http://www.australianclutch.com.au/uploads/tech-bu...
Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff