FFF / Syvecs misbehaviour
Discussion
I got my tuscan from RG last year (it has the FFF2 and syvecs) When i went to test drive it it had issues with rough idling and cutting out, but these were suggested to be a mapping issue and as promised were all sorted when I collected it.
Few weeks later and the issues were back, although I thought it was down to bad mapping and was going to get it remapped after having a few more miles on the engine. Anyway, after some more investigative work, the problems seem to tie in very well with symptoms of a failing cam position sensor although its only done a few thousand miles since the installation. Anyone else with a syvecs had similar problems, was it the sensor and if so how did you get it sorted out please?
cheers
Rick
Few weeks later and the issues were back, although I thought it was down to bad mapping and was going to get it remapped after having a few more miles on the engine. Anyway, after some more investigative work, the problems seem to tie in very well with symptoms of a failing cam position sensor although its only done a few thousand miles since the installation. Anyone else with a syvecs had similar problems, was it the sensor and if so how did you get it sorted out please?
cheers
Rick
The cam sensor is used at start up to acquire the right sync with the crank for sequential injection. You can easily check what the cam sensor is doing by downloading the syvecs software and hooking the car up and looking at the "sync state". It should be 720. You don't need any special cables as syvecs should have a Cat 5 cable to plug straight into the Ethernet port of a lap top.
If the cam sensor has failed the car will still run in batch mode albeit not as smooth.
Has any work been done to the car lately. Ie was the cam cover removed?
If the cam sensor has failed the car will still run in batch mode albeit not as smooth.
Has any work been done to the car lately. Ie was the cam cover removed?
Thanks, yes was going to plug it in and see what it was saying but didn't really know what I was looking for to prove or disprove anything so thanks that's a big help already.
Nope, no work done that involved removing the cam cover that could have caused it to shift / fail since I bought it.
thanks
Rick
Nope, no work done that involved removing the cam cover that could have caused it to shift / fail since I bought it.
thanks
Rick
hmmm - I was hoping that was going to be an easy fault proving but maybe not! Was showing 720 so suggests not the sensor then? At least the software downloaded easily and was happy to talk to the car!! Been meaning to do that for a while just to have a look at it...
I did get a screen grab but sadly don't have a synchronometer. Any other suggestions welcome otherwise she is down to RG next week anyway but thought no harm in trying to work out what was going on myself first

I did get a screen grab but sadly don't have a synchronometer. Any other suggestions welcome otherwise she is down to RG next week anyway but thought no harm in trying to work out what was going on myself first

in general if it has run with the map ok before it wont have anything to do with the map.
syc of the bodies is a good start. check if the tps sensors are tight. can get loose by the time.
of course also bearings of the throttle bodies can get some play by the time but this is not a
one day running fine next day problem thing.
syc of the bodies is a good start. check if the tps sensors are tight. can get loose by the time.
of course also bearings of the throttle bodies can get some play by the time but this is not a
one day running fine next day problem thing.
If you've got 720 sync then your running sequential and that sensor is fine.
You'll be running an idle control valve which supplements the air allowing the valve to control low speed idle. When the throttle bodies go out of sync you end up with the potential situation where the valve can't top up to the required amount to maintain a consistent idle.
I had my car off the road from Feb till a few weeks a go and when restarting the tone of the engine was all wrong and rough. Balanced the bodies and it was back to normal.
No other errors are registering are they.
You'll be running an idle control valve which supplements the air allowing the valve to control low speed idle. When the throttle bodies go out of sync you end up with the potential situation where the valve can't top up to the required amount to maintain a consistent idle.
I had my car off the road from Feb till a few weeks a go and when restarting the tone of the engine was all wrong and rough. Balanced the bodies and it was back to normal.
No other errors are registering are they.
Edited by m4tti on Monday 18th July 21:30
thanks Gents - I didn't have the car running too long as the space it lives in is fairly enclosed and didn't spend too long getting to know my way around the software for risk of gassing myself. Looking at screen grab again after reading the manuals a bit can see it is showing something yellow as an intermittent error in the device menu so I might take it for a drive round later this week to see what that is showing.
Could also be the throttle bodies as it did start a period of time after I got it (but only a month or so) and I would say has probably got worse with time in terms of likelihood of cutting out. I guess adjusting throttle bodies the sort of thing you need to get done each service if its time related and you arent in the habit of taking the bonnet off yourself on a regular basis?
thanks
Rick
Could also be the throttle bodies as it did start a period of time after I got it (but only a month or so) and I would say has probably got worse with time in terms of likelihood of cutting out. I guess adjusting throttle bodies the sort of thing you need to get done each service if its time related and you arent in the habit of taking the bonnet off yourself on a regular basis?
thanks
Rick
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