buying a discovery 3
Discussion
From the fb group.
I paid £12k for my 05 HSE auto 4 years ago. It had 97k on the clock, it now has 151k.
I've spent some cash bringing it up to my high standards but it's been pretty good with me.
I got a 05 HSE auto with 133k this year for my mate, lower front and upper rear arms done, new alternator, compressor, box flush, for the sum of £8500. I've given him a list of things to check and address over the next 6 months but it's running happily with him and his wife loves it for the kid and all that baby crap.
1) HSE is the 'top' model with most options fitted as standard. Other models are capable, and should not be ignored - you might not need or want all the toys, and paying a premium for them might be a waste.
2) Buy on condition rather than age or mileage. There are plenty of well looked after D3's with 150,000, 200,000 or more miles on the clock and on their original engines.
3) Evidence of service history / money being spent is vital - these vehicles require preventative maintenance. A good 'tell tale' for a vehicle run on a shoestring budget is to look at the tyres. Are they a reputable make and good tread left? Good sign. Big stack of invoices? Good sign.
4) These are heavy vehicles - suspension components, bushes, and wheel bearings wear out, as do differentials and prop-shaft centre bearings. When replacing wheel bearings - you want Timken / OEM - nothing else will do.
5) Brakes take a hammering too. Check the disks and pads for excessive wear.
6) The EGR valves generally fail in time. They can be replaced, and there are other cheaper solutions available that cannot be officially sanctioned.
7) The suspension compressor is a weak point. Make sure the suspension raises and lowers efficiently, with no noises, and no error messages on the dashboard. Ideally, it will have been replaced by the uprated AMK version.
8) Battery and alternator usually need replacing at about 8 years old. A common sign that the battery is getting weak is the message "special programs not available" appearing temporarily after starting up.
9) Cambelt and fuel pump belt need changing at 7 years / 105K miles. The body does *not* need to come off to replace the belts.
10) Changing the oil pump at the same time as the belts is advisable. There have been instances of the lug that holds the tensioner snapping off and wrecking engines, and the redesigned pump appears to be much strengthened.
11) Getting the gearbox oil changed / flushed is advisable at around 80K miles. This is not a standard service item, so you'll need to arrange to get it done separately. Changing the gearbox oil filter is much harder than just changing the oil.
12) Check the MOT history (online) on any vehicle you are thinking of buying - it will tell you a lot. Same advisories ignored for a couple of years in a row?
13) The electronic parking brake can fail, and it's expensive when it does. There is an emergency release accessible from inside the cabin.
14) A warranty is a good idea if you can stretch to it. Lots are available, and it's worth asking for experiences of members of this group.
15) an IID Tool is worth buying to do your own diagnostic work. Other tools can do similar jobs, including iCarsoft i930, but doesn't offer as many features.
16) A remote FBH controller is worth its weight in gold to those that have them. The FBH is a 'fuel burning heater' and kicks in below 5 Celsius to warm the engine faster on cold days. It is the thing that smells and smokes from the front left of the D3 and always worries people in the winter. A remote control turns it into a useful parking heater.
17) There was a recall on the detachable tow bar. Take it to Land Rover to get it checked out. There was also a recall regarding a vacuum pipe (top left of the engine standing at the front looking to the rear of the D3) - if you don't have a strange looking 'loop' arrangement, get it checked out by Land Rover.
18) The locking wheel bolts sometimes sheer off - replace them with standard ones. The supplied wheel brace is considered inadequate for removing the bolts if they have ever been tightened with an air wrench. Get a proper one prior to actually needing it!
19) Sometimes the central locking plays up, due to a crummy connection on the passenger side under the plastic sill. It can be soldered up for a permanent fix.
20) The cable that releases the rear tailgate sometimes breaks, as does the microswitch in the handle - awkward to repair when it goes. Symptoms are the tailgate not opening and / or a clicking noise but not opening.
21) Shudder or surging in the acceleration at about 2,000 rpm usually means the torque converter is failing - an oil flush or Dr Tranny can give it a bit more life.
22) There were some instances of crank bearings spinning and wrecking engines. If that happens to you, go talk to Land Rover, as they had a programme to deal with this, depending on conditions being met. As far as it known, there is no way to repair engines with spun crank bearings.
23) The turbo actuator can stick causing very poor acceleration at slow speeds. Easy enough to free up, if fiddly.
24) The MAP sensor has a tendency to clog up. Easy to remove and clean, and there is a modified part with a larger port available that is less prone to clogging.
25) The long intercooler pipe has a tendency to split near the top of the engine compartment on the left as you stand in front of the engine, causing almost total loss of performance, and loads of smoke. Easy DIY to replace, and should possibly be considered preventative maintenance once over about 7 or 8 years of age.
26) There are usually one or two D3's for sale by members of this group. They won't be the cheapest available, but they are likely to be amongst the most 'honest' with declared issues.
27) Road tax is cheaper on older D3's - that said, don't let this put you off newer models - the difference isn't large enough to use it as a buying decision.
28) Fuel economy is between 22 and 32 MPG depending on usage. These are not 'green' vehicles - and that's not why you're buying it!
29) Don't let just any old mechanic work on your D3. These are specialised machines and you need to know what you're doing if you want to minimise the costs - rather than just throwing parts at it. Take it to a recognised specialist and save yourself a lot of grief.
30) The centre console Fridge was thought to be standard on HSE's in 2007 but not necessarily present in 2008 onwards. They can be retrofitted :-)
31) The crossover pipe that links one bank of cylinders to the turbo on the other side of the engine can fail - most usually due to the centre bracket not being refitted after work on the gearbox causing vibration and cracking. It can be replaced without taking the body off, but it is very awkward, and the pipe itself is expensive.
32) The fuel injectors can't be serviced, and they're roughly £200 each just for the part - keep in mind you have 6 of them! It's worth using good fuel and / or using injector cleaner every now and then to keep them in good shape.
33) The glow plugs can fail - symptom being difficult starting, smoke on starting, or rough running for a while after starting. You might not notice until 3 of the 6 have failed. They have a tendency to snap on removal, needing the heads to be taken off. A workaround is to fit a remote FBH controller and pre-heat the engine prior to starting.
34) The black plastic trim does fade. Several people swear by using smooth peanut butter to restore the colour.
35) The elements in the heated windscreen are fragile and can be broken by stone chips. There is no way to repair them once broken, other than a windscreen replacement.
36) The winch mechanism to lower the spare wheel sometimes jams up. Make it part of your routine to test it / loosen it from time to time. Don't wait until you need it before discovering that it is seized up.
37) Some people who have needed replacement engines have successfully fitted the 2.7 diesel engine out of a Jaguar. This is obviously a risky proposition as it is unclear just how much of the internals are different / similar or modified for Land Rover versus Jaguar.
38) Slight loss of coolant can be due to the header tank leaking, or the cap needing replacing. You need the pink/red OAT coolant.
39) Difficulty engaging Drive, or slipping out of Drive (auto box) is often due to seized or worn bushes in the selector mechanism under the D3. Moderately easy DIY fix.
40) Leaking from the sunroof into the interior is often caused by blocked / clogged sunroof drains. These can be cleared with careful use of a straightened metal coat hanger.
41) The leather on the steering wheel is not the most robust in the world!
42) Airbag warning lights can sometimes be caused by the connector under the seat working loose. Tightening the retaining bolt can often solve the problem.
43) It is possible to retrofit a reversing camera, but it requires the addition of a new GFIV interface module, as well as the physical hardware.
44) Older D3's, without the 4x4 info screen or clock on the dashboard, can have these features enabled through coding / module updating. You can do this yourself with an IID Tool, or several members of this group can do it for you, for a fee.
45) Loads of useful information can be obtained from Land Rover's Topix service. This is available online, and registration is free. All you need is the VIN number, once registered.
46) The default code to pair your Bluetooth phone to your D3 is 2121.
I paid £12k for my 05 HSE auto 4 years ago. It had 97k on the clock, it now has 151k.
I've spent some cash bringing it up to my high standards but it's been pretty good with me.
I got a 05 HSE auto with 133k this year for my mate, lower front and upper rear arms done, new alternator, compressor, box flush, for the sum of £8500. I've given him a list of things to check and address over the next 6 months but it's running happily with him and his wife loves it for the kid and all that baby crap.
1) HSE is the 'top' model with most options fitted as standard. Other models are capable, and should not be ignored - you might not need or want all the toys, and paying a premium for them might be a waste.
2) Buy on condition rather than age or mileage. There are plenty of well looked after D3's with 150,000, 200,000 or more miles on the clock and on their original engines.
3) Evidence of service history / money being spent is vital - these vehicles require preventative maintenance. A good 'tell tale' for a vehicle run on a shoestring budget is to look at the tyres. Are they a reputable make and good tread left? Good sign. Big stack of invoices? Good sign.
4) These are heavy vehicles - suspension components, bushes, and wheel bearings wear out, as do differentials and prop-shaft centre bearings. When replacing wheel bearings - you want Timken / OEM - nothing else will do.
5) Brakes take a hammering too. Check the disks and pads for excessive wear.
6) The EGR valves generally fail in time. They can be replaced, and there are other cheaper solutions available that cannot be officially sanctioned.
7) The suspension compressor is a weak point. Make sure the suspension raises and lowers efficiently, with no noises, and no error messages on the dashboard. Ideally, it will have been replaced by the uprated AMK version.
8) Battery and alternator usually need replacing at about 8 years old. A common sign that the battery is getting weak is the message "special programs not available" appearing temporarily after starting up.
9) Cambelt and fuel pump belt need changing at 7 years / 105K miles. The body does *not* need to come off to replace the belts.
10) Changing the oil pump at the same time as the belts is advisable. There have been instances of the lug that holds the tensioner snapping off and wrecking engines, and the redesigned pump appears to be much strengthened.
11) Getting the gearbox oil changed / flushed is advisable at around 80K miles. This is not a standard service item, so you'll need to arrange to get it done separately. Changing the gearbox oil filter is much harder than just changing the oil.
12) Check the MOT history (online) on any vehicle you are thinking of buying - it will tell you a lot. Same advisories ignored for a couple of years in a row?
13) The electronic parking brake can fail, and it's expensive when it does. There is an emergency release accessible from inside the cabin.
14) A warranty is a good idea if you can stretch to it. Lots are available, and it's worth asking for experiences of members of this group.
15) an IID Tool is worth buying to do your own diagnostic work. Other tools can do similar jobs, including iCarsoft i930, but doesn't offer as many features.
16) A remote FBH controller is worth its weight in gold to those that have them. The FBH is a 'fuel burning heater' and kicks in below 5 Celsius to warm the engine faster on cold days. It is the thing that smells and smokes from the front left of the D3 and always worries people in the winter. A remote control turns it into a useful parking heater.
17) There was a recall on the detachable tow bar. Take it to Land Rover to get it checked out. There was also a recall regarding a vacuum pipe (top left of the engine standing at the front looking to the rear of the D3) - if you don't have a strange looking 'loop' arrangement, get it checked out by Land Rover.
18) The locking wheel bolts sometimes sheer off - replace them with standard ones. The supplied wheel brace is considered inadequate for removing the bolts if they have ever been tightened with an air wrench. Get a proper one prior to actually needing it!
19) Sometimes the central locking plays up, due to a crummy connection on the passenger side under the plastic sill. It can be soldered up for a permanent fix.
20) The cable that releases the rear tailgate sometimes breaks, as does the microswitch in the handle - awkward to repair when it goes. Symptoms are the tailgate not opening and / or a clicking noise but not opening.
21) Shudder or surging in the acceleration at about 2,000 rpm usually means the torque converter is failing - an oil flush or Dr Tranny can give it a bit more life.
22) There were some instances of crank bearings spinning and wrecking engines. If that happens to you, go talk to Land Rover, as they had a programme to deal with this, depending on conditions being met. As far as it known, there is no way to repair engines with spun crank bearings.
23) The turbo actuator can stick causing very poor acceleration at slow speeds. Easy enough to free up, if fiddly.
24) The MAP sensor has a tendency to clog up. Easy to remove and clean, and there is a modified part with a larger port available that is less prone to clogging.
25) The long intercooler pipe has a tendency to split near the top of the engine compartment on the left as you stand in front of the engine, causing almost total loss of performance, and loads of smoke. Easy DIY to replace, and should possibly be considered preventative maintenance once over about 7 or 8 years of age.
26) There are usually one or two D3's for sale by members of this group. They won't be the cheapest available, but they are likely to be amongst the most 'honest' with declared issues.
27) Road tax is cheaper on older D3's - that said, don't let this put you off newer models - the difference isn't large enough to use it as a buying decision.
28) Fuel economy is between 22 and 32 MPG depending on usage. These are not 'green' vehicles - and that's not why you're buying it!
29) Don't let just any old mechanic work on your D3. These are specialised machines and you need to know what you're doing if you want to minimise the costs - rather than just throwing parts at it. Take it to a recognised specialist and save yourself a lot of grief.
30) The centre console Fridge was thought to be standard on HSE's in 2007 but not necessarily present in 2008 onwards. They can be retrofitted :-)
31) The crossover pipe that links one bank of cylinders to the turbo on the other side of the engine can fail - most usually due to the centre bracket not being refitted after work on the gearbox causing vibration and cracking. It can be replaced without taking the body off, but it is very awkward, and the pipe itself is expensive.
32) The fuel injectors can't be serviced, and they're roughly £200 each just for the part - keep in mind you have 6 of them! It's worth using good fuel and / or using injector cleaner every now and then to keep them in good shape.
33) The glow plugs can fail - symptom being difficult starting, smoke on starting, or rough running for a while after starting. You might not notice until 3 of the 6 have failed. They have a tendency to snap on removal, needing the heads to be taken off. A workaround is to fit a remote FBH controller and pre-heat the engine prior to starting.
34) The black plastic trim does fade. Several people swear by using smooth peanut butter to restore the colour.
35) The elements in the heated windscreen are fragile and can be broken by stone chips. There is no way to repair them once broken, other than a windscreen replacement.
36) The winch mechanism to lower the spare wheel sometimes jams up. Make it part of your routine to test it / loosen it from time to time. Don't wait until you need it before discovering that it is seized up.
37) Some people who have needed replacement engines have successfully fitted the 2.7 diesel engine out of a Jaguar. This is obviously a risky proposition as it is unclear just how much of the internals are different / similar or modified for Land Rover versus Jaguar.
38) Slight loss of coolant can be due to the header tank leaking, or the cap needing replacing. You need the pink/red OAT coolant.
39) Difficulty engaging Drive, or slipping out of Drive (auto box) is often due to seized or worn bushes in the selector mechanism under the D3. Moderately easy DIY fix.
40) Leaking from the sunroof into the interior is often caused by blocked / clogged sunroof drains. These can be cleared with careful use of a straightened metal coat hanger.
41) The leather on the steering wheel is not the most robust in the world!
42) Airbag warning lights can sometimes be caused by the connector under the seat working loose. Tightening the retaining bolt can often solve the problem.
43) It is possible to retrofit a reversing camera, but it requires the addition of a new GFIV interface module, as well as the physical hardware.
44) Older D3's, without the 4x4 info screen or clock on the dashboard, can have these features enabled through coding / module updating. You can do this yourself with an IID Tool, or several members of this group can do it for you, for a fee.
45) Loads of useful information can be obtained from Land Rover's Topix service. This is available online, and registration is free. All you need is the VIN number, once registered.
46) The default code to pair your Bluetooth phone to your D3 is 2121.
benny4x said:
looking to buy a discovery 3 ,what should I look out for? is there a mileage I shouldn't go over? my budget is £9-11000 is that enough for a 'good' one?
Can't offer any advice, other than to take a look on disco3.co.uk - loads of info on there. I was in the market for a D4 and found it very useful, ended up buying from one of the forum members (forum is for D3 and D4)Plenty of info on the net about buying a D3. Certainly enough to put you off. Whats your budget? I think AJM is on the same FB group as I am. www.disco3.co.uk is a very active forum.
Put it this way, you see quite a few posts on people celebrating long round trips with out issues. Read into that what you like
I have just bought a cheap one. Bought it as it was the colour combination I wanted and it had a completely clean MOT history. Sadly, it still has some issues.
General Buyers Guide:
- Air Suspension. Lots of components to go wrong (Sensors, compressors, airbags, ECU, valves etc etc). Check it all works.
- Gearbox (If it starts to make the car sound like its driving over a cattle grid, then walk away or ask them to reduce the price by £2.5k. LR claimed that the boxes were sealed for life. Sadly they weren't right
- Electronic Park Break (Needs regular servicing). Not something LR ever recommended. Some people on the forums advise not using it at all!
- Cambelt change is expensive due to belts being at the front and rear of the engine.
- Parking sensors go with age (Not a straight forward fix as it can be numerous wiring looms or individual sensors
- Front Difs can go along with prop shafts
- Brake lines can corrode and are known to be a pig to replace if new sections can't be spliced onto the good sections
- Crank failure (New engine time). Not entirely sure how common that is.
- Lower boot section failing to open (Wiring needs to be fixed)
- Steering. Lower rack can fail resulting in the steering feeling a little stiff. Thankfully a lower rack is quite cheap at £65 and only a couple of hours labour
- Suspension arms fail and can result in an MOT failure.
If you want decent tyres, then expect to pay £120 a corner. A touch less if you go for the S and SE models (17 and 18in wheels)
Don't bother with the manual. Whilst they are slightly better on fuel, the change is in a odd position and isn't that precise.
Throttle response is a bit slow on the 2.7TD. I'm told than blanking the EGRs improves this and remap makes it even better. I may blank my EGRs, but I'd rather spend money keeping the car in good shape.
I recommend that you try and get the SE or the HSE model.
Put it this way, you see quite a few posts on people celebrating long round trips with out issues. Read into that what you like
I have just bought a cheap one. Bought it as it was the colour combination I wanted and it had a completely clean MOT history. Sadly, it still has some issues.
General Buyers Guide:
- Air Suspension. Lots of components to go wrong (Sensors, compressors, airbags, ECU, valves etc etc). Check it all works.
- Gearbox (If it starts to make the car sound like its driving over a cattle grid, then walk away or ask them to reduce the price by £2.5k. LR claimed that the boxes were sealed for life. Sadly they weren't right
- Electronic Park Break (Needs regular servicing). Not something LR ever recommended. Some people on the forums advise not using it at all!
- Cambelt change is expensive due to belts being at the front and rear of the engine.
- Parking sensors go with age (Not a straight forward fix as it can be numerous wiring looms or individual sensors
- Front Difs can go along with prop shafts
- Brake lines can corrode and are known to be a pig to replace if new sections can't be spliced onto the good sections
- Crank failure (New engine time). Not entirely sure how common that is.
- Lower boot section failing to open (Wiring needs to be fixed)
- Steering. Lower rack can fail resulting in the steering feeling a little stiff. Thankfully a lower rack is quite cheap at £65 and only a couple of hours labour
- Suspension arms fail and can result in an MOT failure.
If you want decent tyres, then expect to pay £120 a corner. A touch less if you go for the S and SE models (17 and 18in wheels)
Don't bother with the manual. Whilst they are slightly better on fuel, the change is in a odd position and isn't that precise.
Throttle response is a bit slow on the 2.7TD. I'm told than blanking the EGRs improves this and remap makes it even better. I may blank my EGRs, but I'd rather spend money keeping the car in good shape.
I recommend that you try and get the SE or the HSE model.
A.J.M said:
From the fb group.
I paid £12k for my 05 HSE auto 4 years ago. It had 97k on the clock, it now has 151k.
I've spent some cash bringing it up to my high standards but it's been pretty good with me.
I got a 05 HSE auto with 133k this year for my mate, lower front and upper rear arms done, new alternator, compressor, box flush, for the sum of £8500. I've given him a list of things to check and address over the next 6 months but it's running happily with him and his wife loves it for the kid and all that baby crap.
1) HSE is the 'top' model with most options fitted as standard. Other models are capable, and should not be ignored - you might not need or want all the toys, and paying a premium for them might be a waste.
2) Buy on condition rather than age or mileage. There are plenty of well looked after D3's with 150,000, 200,000 or more miles on the clock and on their original engines.
3) Evidence of service history / money being spent is vital - these vehicles require preventative maintenance. A good 'tell tale' for a vehicle run on a shoestring budget is to look at the tyres. Are they a reputable make and good tread left? Good sign. Big stack of invoices? Good sign.
4) These are heavy vehicles - suspension components, bushes, and wheel bearings wear out, as do differentials and prop-shaft centre bearings. When replacing wheel bearings - you want Timken / OEM - nothing else will do.
5) Brakes take a hammering too. Check the disks and pads for excessive wear.
6) The EGR valves generally fail in time. They can be replaced, and there are other cheaper solutions available that cannot be officially sanctioned.
7) The suspension compressor is a weak point. Make sure the suspension raises and lowers efficiently, with no noises, and no error messages on the dashboard. Ideally, it will have been replaced by the uprated AMK version.
8) Battery and alternator usually need replacing at about 8 years old. A common sign that the battery is getting weak is the message "special programs not available" appearing temporarily after starting up.
9) Cambelt and fuel pump belt need changing at 7 years / 105K miles. The body does *not* need to come off to replace the belts.
10) Changing the oil pump at the same time as the belts is advisable. There have been instances of the lug that holds the tensioner snapping off and wrecking engines, and the redesigned pump appears to be much strengthened.
11) Getting the gearbox oil changed / flushed is advisable at around 80K miles. This is not a standard service item, so you'll need to arrange to get it done separately. Changing the gearbox oil filter is much harder than just changing the oil.
12) Check the MOT history (online) on any vehicle you are thinking of buying - it will tell you a lot. Same advisories ignored for a couple of years in a row?
13) The electronic parking brake can fail, and it's expensive when it does. There is an emergency release accessible from inside the cabin.
14) A warranty is a good idea if you can stretch to it. Lots are available, and it's worth asking for experiences of members of this group.
15) an IID Tool is worth buying to do your own diagnostic work. Other tools can do similar jobs, including iCarsoft i930, but doesn't offer as many features.
16) A remote FBH controller is worth its weight in gold to those that have them. The FBH is a 'fuel burning heater' and kicks in below 5 Celsius to warm the engine faster on cold days. It is the thing that smells and smokes from the front left of the D3 and always worries people in the winter. A remote control turns it into a useful parking heater.
17) There was a recall on the detachable tow bar. Take it to Land Rover to get it checked out. There was also a recall regarding a vacuum pipe (top left of the engine standing at the front looking to the rear of the D3) - if you don't have a strange looking 'loop' arrangement, get it checked out by Land Rover.
18) The locking wheel bolts sometimes sheer off - replace them with standard ones. The supplied wheel brace is considered inadequate for removing the bolts if they have ever been tightened with an air wrench. Get a proper one prior to actually needing it!
19) Sometimes the central locking plays up, due to a crummy connection on the passenger side under the plastic sill. It can be soldered up for a permanent fix.
20) The cable that releases the rear tailgate sometimes breaks, as does the microswitch in the handle - awkward to repair when it goes. Symptoms are the tailgate not opening and / or a clicking noise but not opening.
21) Shudder or surging in the acceleration at about 2,000 rpm usually means the torque converter is failing - an oil flush or Dr Tranny can give it a bit more life.
22) There were some instances of crank bearings spinning and wrecking engines. If that happens to you, go talk to Land Rover, as they had a programme to deal with this, depending on conditions being met. As far as it known, there is no way to repair engines with spun crank bearings.
23) The turbo actuator can stick causing very poor acceleration at slow speeds. Easy enough to free up, if fiddly.
24) The MAP sensor has a tendency to clog up. Easy to remove and clean, and there is a modified part with a larger port available that is less prone to clogging.
25) The long intercooler pipe has a tendency to split near the top of the engine compartment on the left as you stand in front of the engine, causing almost total loss of performance, and loads of smoke. Easy DIY to replace, and should possibly be considered preventative maintenance once over about 7 or 8 years of age.
26) There are usually one or two D3's for sale by members of this group. They won't be the cheapest available, but they are likely to be amongst the most 'honest' with declared issues.
27) Road tax is cheaper on older D3's - that said, don't let this put you off newer models - the difference isn't large enough to use it as a buying decision.
28) Fuel economy is between 22 and 32 MPG depending on usage. These are not 'green' vehicles - and that's not why you're buying it!
29) Don't let just any old mechanic work on your D3. These are specialised machines and you need to know what you're doing if you want to minimise the costs - rather than just throwing parts at it. Take it to a recognised specialist and save yourself a lot of grief.
30) The centre console Fridge was thought to be standard on HSE's in 2007 but not necessarily present in 2008 onwards. They can be retrofitted :-)
31) The crossover pipe that links one bank of cylinders to the turbo on the other side of the engine can fail - most usually due to the centre bracket not being refitted after work on the gearbox causing vibration and cracking. It can be replaced without taking the body off, but it is very awkward, and the pipe itself is expensive.
32) The fuel injectors can't be serviced, and they're roughly £200 each just for the part - keep in mind you have 6 of them! It's worth using good fuel and / or using injector cleaner every now and then to keep them in good shape.
33) The glow plugs can fail - symptom being difficult starting, smoke on starting, or rough running for a while after starting. You might not notice until 3 of the 6 have failed. They have a tendency to snap on removal, needing the heads to be taken off. A workaround is to fit a remote FBH controller and pre-heat the engine prior to starting.
34) The black plastic trim does fade. Several people swear by using smooth peanut butter to restore the colour.
35) The elements in the heated windscreen are fragile and can be broken by stone chips. There is no way to repair them once broken, other than a windscreen replacement.
36) The winch mechanism to lower the spare wheel sometimes jams up. Make it part of your routine to test it / loosen it from time to time. Don't wait until you need it before discovering that it is seized up.
37) Some people who have needed replacement engines have successfully fitted the 2.7 diesel engine out of a Jaguar. This is obviously a risky proposition as it is unclear just how much of the internals are different / similar or modified for Land Rover versus Jaguar.
38) Slight loss of coolant can be due to the header tank leaking, or the cap needing replacing. You need the pink/red OAT coolant.
39) Difficulty engaging Drive, or slipping out of Drive (auto box) is often due to seized or worn bushes in the selector mechanism under the D3. Moderately easy DIY fix.
40) Leaking from the sunroof into the interior is often caused by blocked / clogged sunroof drains. These can be cleared with careful use of a straightened metal coat hanger.
41) The leather on the steering wheel is not the most robust in the world!
42) Airbag warning lights can sometimes be caused by the connector under the seat working loose. Tightening the retaining bolt can often solve the problem.
43) It is possible to retrofit a reversing camera, but it requires the addition of a new GFIV interface module, as well as the physical hardware.
44) Older D3's, without the 4x4 info screen or clock on the dashboard, can have these features enabled through coding / module updating. You can do this yourself with an IID Tool, or several members of this group can do it for you, for a fee.
45) Loads of useful information can be obtained from Land Rover's Topix service. This is available online, and registration is free. All you need is the VIN number, once registered.
46) The default code to pair your Bluetooth phone to your D3 is 2121.
Or just buy a Landcruiser & use it like it was designed to be. I can't believe people are daft enough to even consider the above Disco's without looking into LC's first! They might not be the plushest of things but they aren't bad certainly compared to an AA trucks back seat.I paid £12k for my 05 HSE auto 4 years ago. It had 97k on the clock, it now has 151k.
I've spent some cash bringing it up to my high standards but it's been pretty good with me.
I got a 05 HSE auto with 133k this year for my mate, lower front and upper rear arms done, new alternator, compressor, box flush, for the sum of £8500. I've given him a list of things to check and address over the next 6 months but it's running happily with him and his wife loves it for the kid and all that baby crap.
1) HSE is the 'top' model with most options fitted as standard. Other models are capable, and should not be ignored - you might not need or want all the toys, and paying a premium for them might be a waste.
2) Buy on condition rather than age or mileage. There are plenty of well looked after D3's with 150,000, 200,000 or more miles on the clock and on their original engines.
3) Evidence of service history / money being spent is vital - these vehicles require preventative maintenance. A good 'tell tale' for a vehicle run on a shoestring budget is to look at the tyres. Are they a reputable make and good tread left? Good sign. Big stack of invoices? Good sign.
4) These are heavy vehicles - suspension components, bushes, and wheel bearings wear out, as do differentials and prop-shaft centre bearings. When replacing wheel bearings - you want Timken / OEM - nothing else will do.
5) Brakes take a hammering too. Check the disks and pads for excessive wear.
6) The EGR valves generally fail in time. They can be replaced, and there are other cheaper solutions available that cannot be officially sanctioned.
7) The suspension compressor is a weak point. Make sure the suspension raises and lowers efficiently, with no noises, and no error messages on the dashboard. Ideally, it will have been replaced by the uprated AMK version.
8) Battery and alternator usually need replacing at about 8 years old. A common sign that the battery is getting weak is the message "special programs not available" appearing temporarily after starting up.
9) Cambelt and fuel pump belt need changing at 7 years / 105K miles. The body does *not* need to come off to replace the belts.
10) Changing the oil pump at the same time as the belts is advisable. There have been instances of the lug that holds the tensioner snapping off and wrecking engines, and the redesigned pump appears to be much strengthened.
11) Getting the gearbox oil changed / flushed is advisable at around 80K miles. This is not a standard service item, so you'll need to arrange to get it done separately. Changing the gearbox oil filter is much harder than just changing the oil.
12) Check the MOT history (online) on any vehicle you are thinking of buying - it will tell you a lot. Same advisories ignored for a couple of years in a row?
13) The electronic parking brake can fail, and it's expensive when it does. There is an emergency release accessible from inside the cabin.
14) A warranty is a good idea if you can stretch to it. Lots are available, and it's worth asking for experiences of members of this group.
15) an IID Tool is worth buying to do your own diagnostic work. Other tools can do similar jobs, including iCarsoft i930, but doesn't offer as many features.
16) A remote FBH controller is worth its weight in gold to those that have them. The FBH is a 'fuel burning heater' and kicks in below 5 Celsius to warm the engine faster on cold days. It is the thing that smells and smokes from the front left of the D3 and always worries people in the winter. A remote control turns it into a useful parking heater.
17) There was a recall on the detachable tow bar. Take it to Land Rover to get it checked out. There was also a recall regarding a vacuum pipe (top left of the engine standing at the front looking to the rear of the D3) - if you don't have a strange looking 'loop' arrangement, get it checked out by Land Rover.
18) The locking wheel bolts sometimes sheer off - replace them with standard ones. The supplied wheel brace is considered inadequate for removing the bolts if they have ever been tightened with an air wrench. Get a proper one prior to actually needing it!
19) Sometimes the central locking plays up, due to a crummy connection on the passenger side under the plastic sill. It can be soldered up for a permanent fix.
20) The cable that releases the rear tailgate sometimes breaks, as does the microswitch in the handle - awkward to repair when it goes. Symptoms are the tailgate not opening and / or a clicking noise but not opening.
21) Shudder or surging in the acceleration at about 2,000 rpm usually means the torque converter is failing - an oil flush or Dr Tranny can give it a bit more life.
22) There were some instances of crank bearings spinning and wrecking engines. If that happens to you, go talk to Land Rover, as they had a programme to deal with this, depending on conditions being met. As far as it known, there is no way to repair engines with spun crank bearings.
23) The turbo actuator can stick causing very poor acceleration at slow speeds. Easy enough to free up, if fiddly.
24) The MAP sensor has a tendency to clog up. Easy to remove and clean, and there is a modified part with a larger port available that is less prone to clogging.
25) The long intercooler pipe has a tendency to split near the top of the engine compartment on the left as you stand in front of the engine, causing almost total loss of performance, and loads of smoke. Easy DIY to replace, and should possibly be considered preventative maintenance once over about 7 or 8 years of age.
26) There are usually one or two D3's for sale by members of this group. They won't be the cheapest available, but they are likely to be amongst the most 'honest' with declared issues.
27) Road tax is cheaper on older D3's - that said, don't let this put you off newer models - the difference isn't large enough to use it as a buying decision.
28) Fuel economy is between 22 and 32 MPG depending on usage. These are not 'green' vehicles - and that's not why you're buying it!
29) Don't let just any old mechanic work on your D3. These are specialised machines and you need to know what you're doing if you want to minimise the costs - rather than just throwing parts at it. Take it to a recognised specialist and save yourself a lot of grief.
30) The centre console Fridge was thought to be standard on HSE's in 2007 but not necessarily present in 2008 onwards. They can be retrofitted :-)
31) The crossover pipe that links one bank of cylinders to the turbo on the other side of the engine can fail - most usually due to the centre bracket not being refitted after work on the gearbox causing vibration and cracking. It can be replaced without taking the body off, but it is very awkward, and the pipe itself is expensive.
32) The fuel injectors can't be serviced, and they're roughly £200 each just for the part - keep in mind you have 6 of them! It's worth using good fuel and / or using injector cleaner every now and then to keep them in good shape.
33) The glow plugs can fail - symptom being difficult starting, smoke on starting, or rough running for a while after starting. You might not notice until 3 of the 6 have failed. They have a tendency to snap on removal, needing the heads to be taken off. A workaround is to fit a remote FBH controller and pre-heat the engine prior to starting.
34) The black plastic trim does fade. Several people swear by using smooth peanut butter to restore the colour.
35) The elements in the heated windscreen are fragile and can be broken by stone chips. There is no way to repair them once broken, other than a windscreen replacement.
36) The winch mechanism to lower the spare wheel sometimes jams up. Make it part of your routine to test it / loosen it from time to time. Don't wait until you need it before discovering that it is seized up.
37) Some people who have needed replacement engines have successfully fitted the 2.7 diesel engine out of a Jaguar. This is obviously a risky proposition as it is unclear just how much of the internals are different / similar or modified for Land Rover versus Jaguar.
38) Slight loss of coolant can be due to the header tank leaking, or the cap needing replacing. You need the pink/red OAT coolant.
39) Difficulty engaging Drive, or slipping out of Drive (auto box) is often due to seized or worn bushes in the selector mechanism under the D3. Moderately easy DIY fix.
40) Leaking from the sunroof into the interior is often caused by blocked / clogged sunroof drains. These can be cleared with careful use of a straightened metal coat hanger.
41) The leather on the steering wheel is not the most robust in the world!
42) Airbag warning lights can sometimes be caused by the connector under the seat working loose. Tightening the retaining bolt can often solve the problem.
43) It is possible to retrofit a reversing camera, but it requires the addition of a new GFIV interface module, as well as the physical hardware.
44) Older D3's, without the 4x4 info screen or clock on the dashboard, can have these features enabled through coding / module updating. You can do this yourself with an IID Tool, or several members of this group can do it for you, for a fee.
45) Loads of useful information can be obtained from Land Rover's Topix service. This is available online, and registration is free. All you need is the VIN number, once registered.
46) The default code to pair your Bluetooth phone to your D3 is 2121.
cptsideways said:
Or just buy a Landcruiser & use it like it was designed to be. I can't believe people are daft enough to even consider the above Disco's without looking into LC's first! They might not be the plushest of things but they aren't bad certainly compared to an AA trucks back seat.
Made me chuckle! Land Rover have been making a mess of it for years. People will rave about the D5 for the first five years whilst they have warranties, but then then the cracks will appear. I bet the owner of the disco3 site has all ready registered disco5.co.uk in anticipation of a lot of owners wanting to discuss their issues.#
However. I can't grumble too much. I bought a D3 two weeks ago. I've wanted a Disco for over 20 years and its brilliant, but I refuse to wear the rose tinted specs especially when its been made and designed by Land Rover!
My land cruiser owning friends report them to be far short of the legendary reliability that everyone likes to suggest.
Electrical and mechanical issues with them seem to be the running theme.
Much of that list is wear and tear items for a 2.7 ton car that's now 7 years old for the youngest models and 12 for the oldest models. Mine is 12 at the end of this year.
It's a list of what could, not will go.
Several bits are issues for all Diesel engines, EGR valves, turbos and hoses.
Others for all cars, brakes, tyres and suspension parts.
The gearbox is fitted to many BMW models and the issues are widely known across many marque specific forums.
The hand brake, air suspension compressor and the spare wheel are disco specific.
I'll take a small drop in reliability for a gain in overall ability.
I like mine. It does everything I need and at 151k it's settling in nicely.
It's going to Morocco for an overland trip next October. I have no issues or concern taking it there and back.
Electrical and mechanical issues with them seem to be the running theme.
Much of that list is wear and tear items for a 2.7 ton car that's now 7 years old for the youngest models and 12 for the oldest models. Mine is 12 at the end of this year.
It's a list of what could, not will go.
Several bits are issues for all Diesel engines, EGR valves, turbos and hoses.
Others for all cars, brakes, tyres and suspension parts.
The gearbox is fitted to many BMW models and the issues are widely known across many marque specific forums.
The hand brake, air suspension compressor and the spare wheel are disco specific.
I'll take a small drop in reliability for a gain in overall ability.
I like mine. It does everything I need and at 151k it's settling in nicely.
It's going to Morocco for an overland trip next October. I have no issues or concern taking it there and back.
Edited by A.J.M on Tuesday 2nd August 13:41
A.J.M said:
My land cruiser owning friends report them to be far short of the legendary reliability that everyone likes to suggest.
Electrical and mechanical issues with them seem to be the running theme.
Much of that list is wear and tear items for a 2.7 ton car that's now 7 years old for the youngest models and 12 for the oldest models. Mine is 12 at the end of this year.
It's a list of what could, not will go.
Several bits are issues for all Diesel engines, EGR valves, turbos and hoses.
Others for all cars, brakes, tyres and suspension parts.
The gearbox is fitted to many BMW models and the issues are widely known across many marque specific forums.
The hand brake, air suspension compressor and the spare wheel are disco specific.
I'll take a small drop in reliability for a gain in overall ability.
I like mine. It does everything I need and at 151k it's settling in nicely.
It's going to Morocco for an overland trip next October. I have no issues or concern taking it there and back.
I own an 80 currently & have had several others over the years. Yes they have the odd niggle but at almost no point will they stop working on you. The list of LC common problems is about 4 items as opposed to 40 for the Disco's. It consists of Electrical and mechanical issues with them seem to be the running theme.
Much of that list is wear and tear items for a 2.7 ton car that's now 7 years old for the youngest models and 12 for the oldest models. Mine is 12 at the end of this year.
It's a list of what could, not will go.
Several bits are issues for all Diesel engines, EGR valves, turbos and hoses.
Others for all cars, brakes, tyres and suspension parts.
The gearbox is fitted to many BMW models and the issues are widely known across many marque specific forums.
The hand brake, air suspension compressor and the spare wheel are disco specific.
I'll take a small drop in reliability for a gain in overall ability.
I like mine. It does everything I need and at 151k it's settling in nicely.
It's going to Morocco for an overland trip next October. I have no issues or concern taking it there and back.
Edited by A.J.M on Tuesday 2nd August 13:41
1) Slow sticky electric windows
2) Rust on bootlids & rear sill corners
3) Grumbly cv joints but they'll do another 100k like it
4) Dashboard backlight bulbs blow after about 15 years
They can & do rust too but nowhere near the extent of the Disco', its always the bootlids & rear sill sections but both are an easy cheap fix. I have never seen one needing chassis rust repairs - ever.
However I do agree that the Disco is a better "car" to drive, are comfier & do just as good a job at towing big stuff about until it needs to be towed onto the AA truck that is
My mate Pete has a lovely top spec Disco3 V8 its a lovely thing externally & internally but genuinely its a scrapper come the next MOT due to horrific rust on the body underside.
That's strange on the rust.
They are pretty good for not rusting, has it lived in the sea?
Even mine that's spent over half its life in the highlands of Scotland and the central belt where we like to use road salt from July to June isn't gubbed.
It's got surface rust on the lower chassis which I'm getting cleaned and treated but it's never been mentioned at an Mot for it.
I'm just being fussy with it as I'm going to keep this car for a long time.
They are a better driver. And a nicer place to sit.
Only the neglected ones or those that have suffered retarded mechanics go on the tow trucks.
My sole trip was due to my garage not clipping the lower cv boot back on properly....
Which worked loose and blew the joint.
Funnily enough, the 4 LC owners, 3 came from discos, 1 from a Shogun, the 3 disco owners was back to discos.
The shogun owner is happy to not be driving a tractor.
They are pretty good for not rusting, has it lived in the sea?
Even mine that's spent over half its life in the highlands of Scotland and the central belt where we like to use road salt from July to June isn't gubbed.
It's got surface rust on the lower chassis which I'm getting cleaned and treated but it's never been mentioned at an Mot for it.
I'm just being fussy with it as I'm going to keep this car for a long time.
They are a better driver. And a nicer place to sit.
Only the neglected ones or those that have suffered retarded mechanics go on the tow trucks.
My sole trip was due to my garage not clipping the lower cv boot back on properly....
Which worked loose and blew the joint.
Funnily enough, the 4 LC owners, 3 came from discos, 1 from a Shogun, the 3 disco owners was back to discos.
The shogun owner is happy to not be driving a tractor.
A.J.M said:
Several bits are issues for all Diesel engines, EGR valves, turbos and hoses.
>sniggers quietly<A.J.M said:
brakes
The D3 model actually fitted with an engine has bigger and better brakes and is lighter on them too, just replaced the discs at 110k.On the general D3 issues, I have never come across a single rusted one despite, like AJM, living in the sticks so they're used and abused around here. To be fair most of them are covered in mud so for all I know they could actually be orange. Come to think of it, two of them are actually orange as they're G4 ones. Land cruisers are effective beasts, but can't hold a candle to the D3/4 for luxury and actually carrying 7 adults in comfort or not having the handling or ride control of a supertanker on the Bay of Biscay.
From what I've read the rust on D3s is more of a body problem than a chassis problem. Water collects in the arch lines and sill protectors. Therefor by the time you think to check it, its all ready in a right state. I've seen the photos of some of them and they were bad. Same issue affects L322s.
Turbos and EGRs is fair comment. However Turbos do tend to last longer on cars these days. Most people will not red line a D3 between gear changes and that will prolong the life of the Turbo. At least the Turbo can be replaced with the body on and there are plenty of companies out there who specialize in refurbing the Turbos.
Turbos and EGRs is fair comment. However Turbos do tend to last longer on cars these days. Most people will not red line a D3 between gear changes and that will prolong the life of the Turbo. At least the Turbo can be replaced with the body on and there are plenty of companies out there who specialize in refurbing the Turbos.
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