Discussion
Ah, welcome to the dark art, cleaning and polishing, where each owner has there own method and tools.
but for me I do this.
I use almost the complete Autoglym range. The Shampoo conditioner is great for cleaning the paint work. I also use a wash mit as I have found this (for me) to be better than sponges, cloths, jetwash etc. I use warm water and wash the car all over.
One hint, never use circular motions, even though this is what you will see most people do, this causes the small circular marks, that most call swirl marks.
Always wash in straight lines, or better still imagine how the air will flow over the car and wash in this direction, so on the doors it is a side to side motion, and the bonnet, from the badge to the window.
The same rules apply to polish and wax.
I then dry the car completely.
Then using Autoglym Resin polish, I polish the car in straight lines. This will sometimes remove small scratchs, but do not use to much pressure. Also you only have to to the resin a few times a year.
Then I use the Super gloss finish, again in straight lines, and I normaly give it a few coats.
If you do this you will end up with a great finish that is easier to clean next time.
Most washs I just wash and use the Super gloss finish, and it works a treat.
Inside I vacume all over, then use the autoglym interior shampoo for the whole of the dash and leather work. Then it is metal polish for the metal, tescos
window cleaner, followed by rainX on the windows. The leather also gets a treat of Autocleam leather cleaner. I also sometimes use Simoniz (spelling) cockpit shine as this wrks well on the wooden dash, and other bits.
Wheels I use WonderWheels, I have tried several others but prefer this.
Hope this helps, any questions just ask or mail me.
BTW:a few clean normaly takes me about four hours, but I do not do it to this extent to often, then intermediate cleans are about one hour or so.
One other tip, I do use halfords polish applicator pads as these are great for the Resin Polish and the Super Gloss wax. I then polish using Autoglym polishing cloth to shine. Apply with the pads and buff with the cloth.
One other thing I have found is the Vieda Micro weave polishing cloths in Tescos (again) are great for a final body work polish, a window polish, and the wood and dials in the dash.
David M5 TVR
but for me I do this.
I use almost the complete Autoglym range. The Shampoo conditioner is great for cleaning the paint work. I also use a wash mit as I have found this (for me) to be better than sponges, cloths, jetwash etc. I use warm water and wash the car all over.
One hint, never use circular motions, even though this is what you will see most people do, this causes the small circular marks, that most call swirl marks.
Always wash in straight lines, or better still imagine how the air will flow over the car and wash in this direction, so on the doors it is a side to side motion, and the bonnet, from the badge to the window.
The same rules apply to polish and wax.
I then dry the car completely.
Then using Autoglym Resin polish, I polish the car in straight lines. This will sometimes remove small scratchs, but do not use to much pressure. Also you only have to to the resin a few times a year.
Then I use the Super gloss finish, again in straight lines, and I normaly give it a few coats.
If you do this you will end up with a great finish that is easier to clean next time.
Most washs I just wash and use the Super gloss finish, and it works a treat.
Inside I vacume all over, then use the autoglym interior shampoo for the whole of the dash and leather work. Then it is metal polish for the metal, tescos
window cleaner, followed by rainX on the windows. The leather also gets a treat of Autocleam leather cleaner. I also sometimes use Simoniz (spelling) cockpit shine as this wrks well on the wooden dash, and other bits. Wheels I use WonderWheels, I have tried several others but prefer this.
Hope this helps, any questions just ask or mail me.
BTW:a few clean normaly takes me about four hours, but I do not do it to this extent to often, then intermediate cleans are about one hour or so.
One other tip, I do use halfords polish applicator pads as these are great for the Resin Polish and the Super Gloss wax. I then polish using Autoglym polishing cloth to shine. Apply with the pads and buff with the cloth.
One other thing I have found is the Vieda Micro weave polishing cloths in Tescos (again) are great for a final body work polish, a window polish, and the wood and dials in the dash.
David M5 TVR
Neil,
I'm also an Autoglym subscriber. Pretty much the same comments as David but I have found that having used Wonderwheels before, Autoglyms Engine and Machine cleaner works great on grubby alloys, lifts grime and brake dust very quickly.
Last stage with the wheels is a coat of Super Resin polish every so often as this helps future cleaning and then A/glym Vinyl and Rubber Care on the tyres.
I usually finsh the cleaning routine by polishing the back foot or so of the tailpipes with a good metal polish paste. This brings the stainless up like new!
Robin
I'm also an Autoglym subscriber. Pretty much the same comments as David but I have found that having used Wonderwheels before, Autoglyms Engine and Machine cleaner works great on grubby alloys, lifts grime and brake dust very quickly.
Last stage with the wheels is a coat of Super Resin polish every so often as this helps future cleaning and then A/glym Vinyl and Rubber Care on the tyres.
I usually finsh the cleaning routine by polishing the back foot or so of the tailpipes with a good metal polish paste. This brings the stainless up like new!
Robin
I too follow the Autoglym path, but use the 'fast glass' on all windows as this makes them near invisible, and 'clean wheels' on the alloys as the grime just washes straight off with a wet sponge.
As for polishing you cant beat an electric buffer, costs between £20 and 30, and does in 20 minutes what it would take 2 hours to do by hand. The results are showroom standard as well.
As for polishing you cant beat an electric buffer, costs between £20 and 30, and does in 20 minutes what it would take 2 hours to do by hand. The results are showroom standard as well.
For me the most anoyying thing when cleaning the car are the streaks of water that run down the doors from liquid that has collected in the recesses around the wing mirrors. My most valuable bit of cleaning kit is a straw that is used to suck out the water that collects in this gap before I start to polish (am I really this sad!!!)
If you really love your car, get Zymol (www.zymol.co.uk). Its a LOT more expensive than Autoglym, but is a wax, not a polish. Their starter pack retails at £90 and includs wax, HD Cleanse(to clean the paint prior to wax application), wash, Leather treat, two cotton applicators and a wax applicator. On a value for money basis, Autoglym is obviously better, in pure results, Zymol is about the best product in the world for waxing you car (Zaino is the other, but its not available in the UK)
I've been waxing my cars for 16 years and I have never used a product as good...£90 is about 2 and a bit tankfulls of SUL so its not that bad really...
I've been waxing my cars for 16 years and I have never used a product as good...£90 is about 2 and a bit tankfulls of SUL so its not that bad really...
I've been an Autoglym convert for several years and really like the ease with which the Super Gloss goes on and polishes off. I've used it a couple of times after washing my '99 Starmist Blue 450 since buying it a few weeks ago. But I can detect a slight haze beneath the gloss that suggests the laquer needs to be cut back a tad with the Resin Polish first. I need to find time to go about this and attend to a number of other areas of neglect (wheel arch margin, sills, under bonnet and exhaust pipe).
I really like the Autoglym Clean Wheel product - my last car produced a huge build up of brake dust (which is highly corrosive) on the alloys which looked great but were a sod to clean. A 2 minute, pre-wash soak with Clean Wheels spray was all it took to keep on top of the problem.
Once I get the complete body surface optimized I think I might try a dose of Zymol. Yesterday I Thompson'd the roof panel and rear header with two coats and was amazed by the improvement in appearance. I hadn't expected it to do this but a deep blue uniform matt appearance has replaced the rather patchy "dried out" look. I think there's a special Branded restorative product for this, but for now the Thompson's fixed two needs.
Hutch
I really like the Autoglym Clean Wheel product - my last car produced a huge build up of brake dust (which is highly corrosive) on the alloys which looked great but were a sod to clean. A 2 minute, pre-wash soak with Clean Wheels spray was all it took to keep on top of the problem.
Once I get the complete body surface optimized I think I might try a dose of Zymol. Yesterday I Thompson'd the roof panel and rear header with two coats and was amazed by the improvement in appearance. I hadn't expected it to do this but a deep blue uniform matt appearance has replaced the rather patchy "dried out" look. I think there's a special Branded restorative product for this, but for now the Thompson's fixed two needs.
Hutch
I've been using the full range of Autoglym products on my Griff and been really pleased with the results. I've read a few threads about Zymol and how good it is and was really impressed when I saw it used on another Griff. I've been put off by the price, £70-£90 is bit too steep for me. However, at the Knebworth car show this weekend I bought some stuff that has the same main ingredient as Zymol - carnauba nut from South America. The stuff I bought smells the same as Zymol and having used it after buying yesterday the results are stunning. The main difference is I only paid £7.95 for a 500ml bottle! I only bought the Step 3 Carnauba Wax but they do a Step 1,2 and 3 range. Step 1 is paint cleaner, Step 2 is Polish which is not a wax but gives the car a wet-look shine and Step 3 is the Carauba Wax. If the car is already in good nick you only need Step 3. One of the good things about the wax is it has no white dust residue so you don't get bits of white caught round wing mirrors and badges, etc. The stuff is made by Meguiar's. Apparently it's used a lot in coachwork places (so they said!). You can get it from LB Restoration Services 0121 358 7448 / www.lb-restoration.co.uk
No, I don't work for them, just really impressed with the results so far.
Paul
>> Edited by Rosso Paul on Monday 26th August 18:10
No, I don't work for them, just really impressed with the results so far.
Paul
>> Edited by Rosso Paul on Monday 26th August 18:10
quote:
I've been using the full range of Autoglym products on my Griff and been really pleased with the results. I've read a few threads about Zymol and how good it is and was really impressed when I saw it used on another Griff. I've been put off by the price, £70-£90 is bit too steep for me. However, at the Knebworth car show this weekend I bought some stuff that has the same main ingredient as Zymol - carnauba nut from South America. The stuff I bought smells the same as Zymol and having used it after buying yesterday the results are stunning. The main difference is I only paid £7.95 for a 500ml bottle! I only bought the Step 3 Carnauba Wax but they do a Step 1,2 and 3 range. Step 1 is paint cleaner, Step 2 is Polish which is not a wax but gives the car a wet-look shine and Step 3 is the Carauba Wax. If the car is already in good nick you only need Step 3. One of the good things about the wax is it has no white dust residue so you don't get bits of white caught round wing mirrors and badges, etc. The stuff is made by Meguiar's. Apparently it's used a lot in coachwork places (so they said!). You can get it from LB Restoration Services 0121 358 7448 / www.lb-restoration.co.uk
No, I don't work for them, just really impressed with the results so far.
Paul
>> Edited by Rosso Paul on Monday 26th August 18:10
I've got a tin of the Step 3 wax from Meguiars from a past 'US' business trip (it would have been rude not to call in at Pep Boys Autoshop on the way to the airport - I'm sooo sad). It is excellent stuff and lasts forever. Better than Zymol/Mer and other similar products (which are good, don't get me wrong, this is jut better). Anyone who knows my car will vouch for it's shine (see profile).
T/.
quote:
If you really love your car, get Zymol (www.zymol.co.uk).
I'll agree with that. I've just spent the afternoon polishing the car with Zymol and it's the business! Only downside is, it takes ages (haven't even touched the wheels/leather/glass yet!). But you get nowt for nowt, as they say, and the car looks incredible. Well worth the money, Zymol.
BTW: Meguiar has a UK web site that mail order the stuff. I have been looking at it and wondering if I should give it ago, but with the amount of Autoglym products I have at the moment I guess I should use them up first, it is starting to look like halfords in my garage at the moment, with so many "magic" bottles and potions.
David M5 TVR
David M5 TVR
Just back from West Coast USA. While I was around Seattle I went into a store called GI Joe's which is a bit like a cross between Halfords and Milletts but on a mega scale.
Unbelievable selection of auto parts, accessories and consumables. The extent of the choice is the first thing you notice. I went for the 'auto detailing' aisle and found at least 5 different brands of carnauba wax. I've always been an Autoglym addict but after reading about the carnauba superlatives on PH I thought I'd give it a try.
I asked a couple of detailing aisle lurkers what they would choose for a chimaera (I had to get out a picture at this point!!). They both recommended Meguiar's products and so I bought 500ml of a Clear Coat Scrub to get deposits out of the surface of the lacquer followed up with 500ml of Meguiar's carnauba Deep Crystal Wax. Each pack cost me $4.79 plus 8.8% tax = $5.21 which at today's rate is around £3.47 (UK price is £6.99). I also bought a pack of Rain-X at £2.17 (typically £5.99 in UK).
OK, two points: are we being ripped off in the UK or what?
and perhaps more importantly...I tried the products this afternoon and the result was stunning
I just can't believe how much bloom the Clear Coat Scrub took off the lacquer coat (it's not abrasive) and the result after a coat of the carnauba wax was amazing. I'm going to put a second coat on tomorrow then she'll be ready for a photo and a Fotango appointment.
Next time I'm over there (next month) I think I'll take an empty suitcase and open a stall at the next TVR meet!
Hutch
Unbelievable selection of auto parts, accessories and consumables. The extent of the choice is the first thing you notice. I went for the 'auto detailing' aisle and found at least 5 different brands of carnauba wax. I've always been an Autoglym addict but after reading about the carnauba superlatives on PH I thought I'd give it a try.
I asked a couple of detailing aisle lurkers what they would choose for a chimaera (I had to get out a picture at this point!!). They both recommended Meguiar's products and so I bought 500ml of a Clear Coat Scrub to get deposits out of the surface of the lacquer followed up with 500ml of Meguiar's carnauba Deep Crystal Wax. Each pack cost me $4.79 plus 8.8% tax = $5.21 which at today's rate is around £3.47 (UK price is £6.99). I also bought a pack of Rain-X at £2.17 (typically £5.99 in UK).
OK, two points: are we being ripped off in the UK or what?
and perhaps more importantly...I tried the products this afternoon and the result was stunning I just can't believe how much bloom the Clear Coat Scrub took off the lacquer coat (it's not abrasive) and the result after a coat of the carnauba wax was amazing. I'm going to put a second coat on tomorrow then she'll be ready for a photo and a Fotango appointment. Next time I'm over there (next month) I think I'll take an empty suitcase and open a stall at the next TVR meet!
Hutch
quote:
(I had to get out a picture at this point!!).
There have already been some concerning posts on this thread. Do you really think it is healthy to carry photos of your car around with you? Perhaps we all need to visit www.bac.co.uk/
quote:
Next time I'm over there (next month) I think I'll take an empty suitcase and open a stall at the next TVR meet!
Treatment didn't do me any good, so I'd be interested in anything you can haul back from the States.
here's a washing tip if you haven't got time or can't be arsed to polish the car afterwards.
first thing is, make sure you have a piece of Chamois leather,it has to be the real thing, as a synthetic doesn't give the same finish.
wet the whole car with water and then follow Davids brill washing descrption (ie don't use circular motions, use straight lines etc), once clean rinse with clean water and then wipe dry with the Chamois leather, again following the straight line advice.
soak up water that has collected in the wing mirror bases with the Chamois corners, easy.
use the chamois on all the glass and rear plastic too
gives a great quick dry finish.
heliox
first thing is, make sure you have a piece of Chamois leather,it has to be the real thing, as a synthetic doesn't give the same finish.
wet the whole car with water and then follow Davids brill washing descrption (ie don't use circular motions, use straight lines etc), once clean rinse with clean water and then wipe dry with the Chamois leather, again following the straight line advice.
soak up water that has collected in the wing mirror bases with the Chamois corners, easy.
use the chamois on all the glass and rear plastic too
gives a great quick dry finish.
heliox
I could never get on with auto glym products,until i came across neals polish about £11 a bottle works a treat one application will last six months and leave a brilliant shine,also i would never use any form of wheel cleaner all contain concentrated forms of acid and in time will erode the laquer fom the wheel, i us good car shampoo to clean the wheels with if the dirt is that stubborn then i use jizer to get the dirt of, as for body work a good quality car shampoo and a quality leather.
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