Restarting TVR Tuscan after 7 months

[engelborghs]

Hello,

I need/want to restart my MK 2 Tuscan after seven months of inactivity.

Do I need to take special actions/precautions?
Fire extinguisher stand-by?
Push the car outside?

Many Thanks,

Koen

[m4tti]

Id be tempted to turn the key in a clockwise direction.

[Milky400]

^^^^^ what he said....

[soad]

Battery is likely to be flat, I reckon?

[anonymous-user]

Start as normal then hold at around 1200 rpm for a minute, then drive off and get the car warmed up. Check oil at the end if the warm up process.

[engelborghs]

TVRMs said:

Start as normal then hold at around 1200 rpm for a minute, then drive off and get the car warmed up. Check oil at the end if the warm up process.

Thanks

[Wacky Racer]

engelborghs said:

Hello,

I need/want to restart my MK 2 Tuscan after seven months of inactivity.

Do I need to take special actions/precautions?
Fire extinguisher stand-by?

I can't see why you would need a fire extinguisher, but having said that, I know one member on here who's nearly brand new TVR set on fire and burnt out, a few seconds after starting up........

[anonymous-user]

engelborghs said:

TVRMs said:

Start as normal then hold at around 1200 rpm for a minute, then drive off and get the car warmed up. Check oil at the end of the warm up process.

Thanks

A useful tip that will give more confidence oil wise. After checking oil hot and getting max level, check when cold. You should have an indication in the dipstick, it won't be much, but it should provide an indication that the oil level is ok when you come back to the car after a long period. 😊

[ChrisnChris]

I always try to crank the engine over a couple of times without it firing up after it's been laid up over winter. Sometimes I manage, more often than not it starts instantly anyway.
As said, keep the revs low.

[Phil Tudhope]

TVRMs said:

Start as normal then hold at around 1200 rpm for a minute, then drive off and get the car warmed up. Check oil at the end if the warm up process.

NO! NO! NO!

You need to remove the fuse for the fuel injectors and turn the engine over on the starter for about 30 seconds to get oil circulating round and lubricate the top end. Do NOT just start the car after such a long time laid up.

Also, don't bother with this 'hold at 1200 rpm for 1 minute' type thing. Start it, keep the revs low i.e. at idle (do not rev) and once started just drive off normally. Do adhere to the warm up procedure (<2,500 rpm until Oil temp >60 Deg C // < 3,500 rpm until Oil temp >70 Deg C // don't use full revs (~7,000 rpm until oil temp >80 Deg C).

Phil.

[anonymous-user]

Phil Tudhope said:

TVRMs said:

Start as normal then hold at around 1200 rpm for a minute, then drive off and get the car warmed up. Check oil at the end if the warm up process.

NO! NO! NO!

You need to remove the fuse for the fuel injectors and turn the engine over on the starter for about 30 seconds to get oil circulating round and lubricate the top end. Do NOT just start the car after such a long time laid up.

Also, don't bother with this 'hold at 1200 rpm for 1 minute' type thing. Start it, keep the revs low i.e. at idle (do not rev) and once started just drive off normally. Do adhere to the warm up procedure (<2,500 rpm until Oil temp >60 Deg C // < 3,500 rpm until Oil temp >70 Deg C // don't use full revs (~7,000 rpm until oil temp >80 Deg C).

Phil.

No need to shout Phil.

Should have said all IMO, but it's something that's not let me down in 12 years of S6 ownership that generally sees less than 6 month per year usages, so its based upon experience. None of the cars - including the one we've had for 11 years has ever gone bang or used oil between services. Cams on the 11 year old unmarked, no sign of wear, lots of valve adjustment left. Oil pressure hot 15-20 PSI hot idle, 50 PSI at 3000 RPM hot.

Don't agree with the need for your approach, but I guess it's one way to start an engine that's been stood for a while. Surprised with your very cautious approach you've not suggested hand crank to prevent initial damage....

I don't think that revving an engine to 1200 rpm once it's cranked and started (oil circulated) is bad for an engine (it's only an increase in 300 RPM from where it should idle but rarely does when cold) especially on an engine that does have a reputation for not getting oil to the top of the engine at start-up.

I'll refrain from shouting, but I suggest you take a good hard look at "your" warm up procedure which appears way OTT. You can't be getting much fun from the poor girl at that rate of warm up..

Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 8th August 16:21

[8ball_Rob]

Phil Tudhope said:

Do adhere to the warm up procedure (<2,500 rpm until Oil temp >60 Deg C // < 3,500 rpm until Oil temp >70 Deg C // don't use full revs (~7,000 rpm until oil temp >80 Deg C).

Phil.

Hi Phil, out of interest is that your usual warmup procedure for day-to-day driving, or just when the car has been laid up for an extended period of time? I ask because it seems significantly more conservative than any S6 warmup procedures I have seen before! I've only had my Tuscan just over a month and have been adhering religiously to the procedure on the My Tuscan site:

Keep revs < 2500 rpm until oil reaches 40C;
Keep revs < 4000 rpm until oil reaches 50C
Keep revs < 6500 rpm until oil reaches 65C

In practice though on public roads I rarely find the need/opportunity to exceed 4000rpm...

[ClassiChimi]

A dry top end will take a good few seconds to get oil circulating and coating the surfaces again, Phill,s totally correct in my view, pulling the fuse is very good advice for an engine that's been stood for any length of time. Remember the tolerances will be far to wide until oil and temps take up the slack so starting it and revving to soon can damage the very parts your trying to protect!
If your running your engine regularly then oil pressure should be high instantly so revving at say 1200 revs isn't a bad thing but after a lay up, just run it as lazy as possible for the first few seconds at least.

[anonymous-user]

ClassiChimi said:

A dry top end will take a good few seconds to get oil circulating and coating the surfaces again, Phill,s totally correct in my view, pulling the fuse is very good advice for an engine that's been stood for any length of time. Remember the tolerances will be far to wide until oil and temps take up the slack so starting it and revving to soon can damage the very parts your trying to protect!
If your running your engine regularly then oil pressure should be high instantly so revving at say 1200 revs isn't a bad thing but after a lay up, just run it as lazy as possible for the first few seconds at least.

For Rev, read fast tick over. Running the engine frequently or not, oil pressure Is almost instant, the 1200 rpm is not to get pressure up.

I hear what you say and it it won't change the way I do things.

I used to squirt red-ex down the bores before I laid up in the past....

7 months lay-up with oils and tolerances as they are? Is it really an issue???

We obviously disagree

Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 8th August 17:51

[ClassiChimi]

Yes maybe it's a bit extreme but I'm really only talking about the first couple of seconds after initial start up and only on an engine that's been stood some time.
Pulling the fuel pump fuse is a very simple way of just ensuring it won't be dry. The damage is caused in those early seconds so it's a good insurance policy if your worried

[zooooom]

For what it's worth my two penith

If your concerned about the long lay up and are handy with a spanner.
I would be inclined to just whip the cam cover off and cover the top end with some new fresh oil.
Replace the cam cover, make sure your battery is fully charged and then follow normal start up procedure.

Alternatively a quick 2 minute phone call to Dom @ TVRPower or Jason @ STR8Six should put your mind at rest.

Edited by zooooom on Monday 8th August 18:58

[m4tti]

Jeez anyone reading this would think the cars are real fragile junk.

Here's the internals of my cylinder head taken after being laid up from January to June. You'll see that mystical stuff called engine oil. It doesn't evaporate and clings to surfaces. It can move under gravity, but gaps are tight. The swirly pattern on the cam lobes is oil film. You'll notice the pools of oil all over the place.

I'm pretty sure at start the mbe cranks the engine over several times before actually starting, to push oil around.

There sleep easy people, turn your keys in confidence.

Edited by m4tti on Tuesday 9th August 06:13

[anonymous-user]

ClassiChimi said:

Yes maybe it's a bit extreme but ..........


Its a good insurance policy if your worried

But of selective quoting, can't argue.

[eliot]

7 months is nothing, check the fluid levels, charge the battery and just start it up and take it for a good run to get some heat through it - i.e half hour or more.

Only if it had been laid up a few years would i bother to prime it up more before starting.

[stlol]

zooooom said:

For what it's worth my two penith

If your concerned about the long lay up and are handy with a spanner.
I would be inclined to just whip the cam cover off and cover the top end with some new fresh oil.
Replace the cam cover, make sure your battery is fully charged and then follow normal start up procedure.

Alternatively a quick 2 minute phone call to Dom @ TVRPower or Jason @ STR8Six should put your mind at rest.

Edited by zooooom on Monday 8th August 18:58

This.