Land Rover Defender nut and bolt rebuild.
Discussion
Another project I thought I would share with you all. It's not a full account of the restoration as there's many photos of insignificance, but I've tried to include the interesting bits. It's still a working progress but the end is in sight! Any one who I may mention I feel deserve a mention for their superb service.
What started out as a quick rear cross-member welding session turned out to be a full blown restoration. This 1989 2.5TD left the road two years ago looking a little forlorn, however it was a deathtrap. The chassis had actually fractured with the body holding it together. It had been badly converted to a 200tdi many years ago, which by the time this resto happened had seen better days anyway. It was decided to go down the 300tdi and R380 gearbox setup. I have found this to be the most "reliable" Land Rover set up so far with my previous vehicles. In fact the 300tdi was the Army's preferred engine for ease of repair and relative reliability in the field, long after civilian production finished.
The only way to properly restore a Landy is with a galvanised chassis, mine by Marslands. They use Land Rover 'C' chassis rails instead of the other chassis option that weld flat steel together, it has more of the OEM appearance I'm after, except the galvanise of course.
Fortunately it was bought before the price increase, with the demise of the Defender, naturally genuine parts have risen somewhat, in fact I'd imagine restoring one to this level would be another 10k or so with the cost of parts now. Even good quality used parts are in short supply and high demand. It is however more cost and time effective to use new.
I try to use genuine Land Rover OEM parts where possible, I get a very healthy discount from my local dealer, Gordon Lamb Chesterfield. Sometimes though it's not always financially viable with the rest of the parts from other sources buying the best OEM available, usually from DLS or Paddock(which fortunately is 10 mins away). Britpart have improved greatly, however they must be treated with caution as some of their goods are garbage!
I'll not bother showing any images of the disassembly as I'm sure you've seen it many times before, most of it was very rusty with not much savable as it was in a pretty poor state.
Cut to the new rolling galvanised chassis with fully rebuilt axle and running gear. New poly bushings and bolts and all brackets around.
The replacement 300tdi engine has been fully rebuilt with new pistons and every conceivable wearable part replaced. rebuilt turbo.
All of the aluminium castings were soda blasted and clear coated to prevent oxidation.
Even the inside of the timing case had to be just so. I know that it's all unseen however I would hope that if someone were to take this apart, no that it'll need to be in some time, they'll see it was restored properly.
Rebuilt power steering system with remanufactured steering box, new pipes and pump.
Full cooling system with all new hoses and OEM Norma clamps.
Brand new genuine Land Rover Bulkhead, a very rare find it was. New current year Defender bulkheads are still available from the dealer. They do unfortunately differ somewhat, no fresh air vents to start as well as various brackets and tunnel that is not compatible. It took six months to locate one, and somehow there ended up being one five minutes down the road. A princely sum of £500 but it'd probable be worth £1500 now.
![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/EBWChanY.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/YOnCaij4" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/YOnCaij4.jpg)
The colour was going to be Nara Bronze completely, but after a bit if deliberation decided with a two tone gloss back with the ridge being the joining line.
In a moment of madness I had powder coated the inlet manifold and a rocker cover in bright orange, however in the cold light of day they look a little naff. Thought I'd take a leaf out of Ferrari's book, although black with a crackle finish. Arguably unnecessary but the casting's are quite poor so these cover that up really nicely. They have a lovely tactile feel.
Fully rebuilt R380 gearbox and transfer box. They look absolutely brand new, inside and out so a big thank you to Derventio Autocentre in Derby, what Graham doesn't know about a Land Rover gearbox isn't worth knowing. His workmanship is second-to-none.
Brand new seat box, bargain and £125 at the dealer, full 2-pack primer and paint inside and out, the underside gets just as much paint as the top. In fact most of it is covered, still no excuse not to paint it properly. It's half the reason a Landy has a savage rust reputation. It's Land Rover's scant regard for sufficient paint.
It certainly takes a lot of time preparing it for paint!
Brand new side frames, the originals were well past it, fortunately I purchased these a good while ago before a price increase, £140 or so a side rings a bell. Same paint preparation applies, etch prime, 2 pack primer, base and clear. This time though, I used a 3M stone chip as used on contemporary cars' sills. These take a hell of a lot of abuse under the car and being steel, rust badly. This is not a part that is easy to change on it's own so getting it right the first time is key.
Correct flange bolts used throughout, no matter if it's seen or not, they cost more however the end product is so much more satisfying.
Screen frame now in place, one of the original parts that hadn't made it's way to the scrap pile.
The rear tub is again, one of a few original items, however it needed some intervention with the riveter. A new genuine floor was sourced from the dealer, very reasonably priced and a nice simple job. I had the entire rear tub powder coated satin black. It saved me so much time as the underneath has reinforcing bars that are very convoluted, and would be a pain to sand.
Once back the underneath was fully seam sealed.
As a recurrent theme with the resto, the underside gets just as much attention. Primer, base and clear.
New rubber pads and fixing plates. The silver spray is an anti-corrosive spray compound by Chemodex, a Nottingham based firm. Their products are vastly superior to any off the shelf source items.
I removed all the steel cappings so that the rust underneath could be removed, they were all powder coated, then a close cell foam strip applied between the tub and cappings. The rivets I found in my Grandfather's garage, they must have been 40 years old, so it's nice to at least have some age specific parts to the original car, even if it's very small.
The bare metal of the rivet heads have been sprayed with etch to prevent the common oxidisation, and stainage that plague many a Land Rovers' flanks.
I am now up to date having just collected the new wiring looms from Autosparks. They manufacture many classic looms and of course British manufacture at its best. The quality is superb. Very well priced also, the genuine loom is mightily expensive, and it wouldn't surprise me if they make them for Land Rover.
That's all I have for now, so please let me know what you think, even if it's an old Landy! Or is that new now.
What started out as a quick rear cross-member welding session turned out to be a full blown restoration. This 1989 2.5TD left the road two years ago looking a little forlorn, however it was a deathtrap. The chassis had actually fractured with the body holding it together. It had been badly converted to a 200tdi many years ago, which by the time this resto happened had seen better days anyway. It was decided to go down the 300tdi and R380 gearbox setup. I have found this to be the most "reliable" Land Rover set up so far with my previous vehicles. In fact the 300tdi was the Army's preferred engine for ease of repair and relative reliability in the field, long after civilian production finished.
The only way to properly restore a Landy is with a galvanised chassis, mine by Marslands. They use Land Rover 'C' chassis rails instead of the other chassis option that weld flat steel together, it has more of the OEM appearance I'm after, except the galvanise of course.
Fortunately it was bought before the price increase, with the demise of the Defender, naturally genuine parts have risen somewhat, in fact I'd imagine restoring one to this level would be another 10k or so with the cost of parts now. Even good quality used parts are in short supply and high demand. It is however more cost and time effective to use new.
I try to use genuine Land Rover OEM parts where possible, I get a very healthy discount from my local dealer, Gordon Lamb Chesterfield. Sometimes though it's not always financially viable with the rest of the parts from other sources buying the best OEM available, usually from DLS or Paddock(which fortunately is 10 mins away). Britpart have improved greatly, however they must be treated with caution as some of their goods are garbage!
I'll not bother showing any images of the disassembly as I'm sure you've seen it many times before, most of it was very rusty with not much savable as it was in a pretty poor state.
Cut to the new rolling galvanised chassis with fully rebuilt axle and running gear. New poly bushings and bolts and all brackets around.
The replacement 300tdi engine has been fully rebuilt with new pistons and every conceivable wearable part replaced. rebuilt turbo.
All of the aluminium castings were soda blasted and clear coated to prevent oxidation.
Even the inside of the timing case had to be just so. I know that it's all unseen however I would hope that if someone were to take this apart, no that it'll need to be in some time, they'll see it was restored properly.
Rebuilt power steering system with remanufactured steering box, new pipes and pump.
Full cooling system with all new hoses and OEM Norma clamps.
Brand new genuine Land Rover Bulkhead, a very rare find it was. New current year Defender bulkheads are still available from the dealer. They do unfortunately differ somewhat, no fresh air vents to start as well as various brackets and tunnel that is not compatible. It took six months to locate one, and somehow there ended up being one five minutes down the road. A princely sum of £500 but it'd probable be worth £1500 now.
The colour was going to be Nara Bronze completely, but after a bit if deliberation decided with a two tone gloss back with the ridge being the joining line.
In a moment of madness I had powder coated the inlet manifold and a rocker cover in bright orange, however in the cold light of day they look a little naff. Thought I'd take a leaf out of Ferrari's book, although black with a crackle finish. Arguably unnecessary but the casting's are quite poor so these cover that up really nicely. They have a lovely tactile feel.
Fully rebuilt R380 gearbox and transfer box. They look absolutely brand new, inside and out so a big thank you to Derventio Autocentre in Derby, what Graham doesn't know about a Land Rover gearbox isn't worth knowing. His workmanship is second-to-none.
Brand new seat box, bargain and £125 at the dealer, full 2-pack primer and paint inside and out, the underside gets just as much paint as the top. In fact most of it is covered, still no excuse not to paint it properly. It's half the reason a Landy has a savage rust reputation. It's Land Rover's scant regard for sufficient paint.
It certainly takes a lot of time preparing it for paint!
Brand new side frames, the originals were well past it, fortunately I purchased these a good while ago before a price increase, £140 or so a side rings a bell. Same paint preparation applies, etch prime, 2 pack primer, base and clear. This time though, I used a 3M stone chip as used on contemporary cars' sills. These take a hell of a lot of abuse under the car and being steel, rust badly. This is not a part that is easy to change on it's own so getting it right the first time is key.
Correct flange bolts used throughout, no matter if it's seen or not, they cost more however the end product is so much more satisfying.
Screen frame now in place, one of the original parts that hadn't made it's way to the scrap pile.
The rear tub is again, one of a few original items, however it needed some intervention with the riveter. A new genuine floor was sourced from the dealer, very reasonably priced and a nice simple job. I had the entire rear tub powder coated satin black. It saved me so much time as the underneath has reinforcing bars that are very convoluted, and would be a pain to sand.
Once back the underneath was fully seam sealed.
As a recurrent theme with the resto, the underside gets just as much attention. Primer, base and clear.
New rubber pads and fixing plates. The silver spray is an anti-corrosive spray compound by Chemodex, a Nottingham based firm. Their products are vastly superior to any off the shelf source items.
I removed all the steel cappings so that the rust underneath could be removed, they were all powder coated, then a close cell foam strip applied between the tub and cappings. The rivets I found in my Grandfather's garage, they must have been 40 years old, so it's nice to at least have some age specific parts to the original car, even if it's very small.
The bare metal of the rivet heads have been sprayed with etch to prevent the common oxidisation, and stainage that plague many a Land Rovers' flanks.
I am now up to date having just collected the new wiring looms from Autosparks. They manufacture many classic looms and of course British manufacture at its best. The quality is superb. Very well priced also, the genuine loom is mightily expensive, and it wouldn't surprise me if they make them for Land Rover.
That's all I have for now, so please let me know what you think, even if it's an old Landy! Or is that new now.
Edited by jahbrown on Wednesday 10th August 01:42
Looking forward to seeing the finished result - I'm sure it will be amazing and worth all the time, money and effort that you must have put in. 
I'll keep up the progress. I was a little unsure folk would want to see a Defender being restored, after all it isn't an M3 or AMG Mercedes
.
There's something about them, yes they're slow, noisy, cramped and quite expensive. But they're such a hoot to drive. Driving one expecting a scene of calm and serenity is going to leave anyone highly disappointed, they were never meant to grace the high street, the field with a collie in the back is where they're at home. I wouldn't want it any other way. And no matter how hard Mr. Kahn tries is ever going to change that.
.There's something about them, yes they're slow, noisy, cramped and quite expensive. But they're such a hoot to drive. Driving one expecting a scene of calm and serenity is going to leave anyone highly disappointed, they were never meant to grace the high street, the field with a collie in the back is where they're at home. I wouldn't want it any other way. And no matter how hard Mr. Kahn tries is ever going to change that.
El Guapo said:
I love a Defender rebuild thread as much as the next man, but I am always left wondering why Land Rover never bothered to build the clucking things properly in the first place.
If they had I'd never have the pleasure of restoring themA galv chassis on these when they were new would have gone a long way. Like many British cars of the era, there's many rust traps and L/R never applied any form of rust protection with only a wafting of paint. I've done in it way that betters Land Rover's procedures with more care on the final finish with the hope it'll be on the road for another 50, even this one managed 37!
New ones are rusty after 3 years, in fact I spoke to a chap waiting for some parts, needing a complete near rear tub after only 18 months, it had disintegrated. The TDCI electrics are far too precious to last my Landies vintage I'm certain of it.
samj2014 said:
Very nice job, can't wait to see the finished article!
One thing though... This car is only a year older than me, and I take exception to the idea of 40 year old rivets being 'age specific'!
I humbly apologiseOne thing though... This car is only a year older than me, and I take exception to the idea of 40 year old rivets being 'age specific'!
I hope I don't need a rebuild when I'm this age, even at 25 I'm making creaking noises and groans! Oh the joys of spannering. It's nice to know at least some part of it will be vintage.... I've tried to save as much as possible but most of it's probably been melted down.
mwstewart said:
Very nice standard of work,
Thank you Mr mwstewart, what you do to your cars are simply awe inspiring! I've spent countless hours rereading your threads. I'm truly humbled by your comments, and everyone else's for that matter. I'm eagerly anticipating the progress on your fiesta thread, but I appreciate just how time consuming restoring cars are, especially how you conduct your projects! Oh dear, I think I'm swooning...
More Land Rovering pursues.
Collected parts today so that the majority of the items affixed to the bulkhead can be crossed off the list.
New OEM TRW brake master cylinder and servo. Sourced through the main dealer, but at a fraction of the cost as one in a genuine box.
Unfortunately I couldn't mount it as my 1989 brake pedal box, which is the original accepts a different servo to the one pirctured. The new replacement servo is for 1990 onwards which has little compatibility with my original pedal box. There are subtle changes, but enough to prevent a safe fixture. A new pedal box is on order, no big deal but it would have been nice to fit on the car. I will show the difference when the new pedal box arrives. The pedal box comes as a complete assembly with pedal and new bronze bushings.
New OEM AP Lockheed brake proportioning valve to prevent rear lock up.
New steering column as the other had worn splines, the benefit to this is fitting a late 48 spline steering wheel, which is dramatically more aesthetically pleasing than the four spoke original.
A new steering lock also, remarkably cheap at only £55 which is amazing for a genuine part.
There is a fair reason for the price, its country of manufacture. I'm not sure why Land Rover can't find a UK manufacturer for an ignition lock, but India wouldn't have been my first guess!
Steering column upper mount and seal.
Third time around got the fuel tank mounted, poor quality pressings mixed with courier damage meant it was some time before I could get it plumbed in.
I decided to use stainless capheads for the fuel return pipe, a lot of detritus finds it's way up there. It was the main reason for changing the tank due to comprehensive rust from the return pipe mount.
Another issue I found was the new chassis utilises larger holes in the metal for the fuel and brake line clips from the TDCI model, unfortunately the chassis manufacturer neglected to mention this. I'd ordered the clips as per the chassis number of the vehicle and subsequently they did not fit. I eventually got there in the end, but as its always the case, small clips and fittings are quite expensive.
A few obligatory shots of nice shiny bits.
The OEM timing belt kit and cover are new. New oil cooler pipes have been fitted. All OEM from memory.
I was pleasantly surprised that you can still buy new brake pipes from the main dealer, even for a twenty year old car. They're only about £10 or so each, some were a bit more. I do have a pipe bender, but no matter how hard I try I could never replicate that of a factory pipe, and I've never been a big fan of copper pipe, it goes brittle and steel pipe isn't the easiest. They're all pre bent and fit perfectly! These will be well protected to prevent any premature corrosion.
Collected parts today so that the majority of the items affixed to the bulkhead can be crossed off the list.
New OEM TRW brake master cylinder and servo. Sourced through the main dealer, but at a fraction of the cost as one in a genuine box.
Unfortunately I couldn't mount it as my 1989 brake pedal box, which is the original accepts a different servo to the one pirctured. The new replacement servo is for 1990 onwards which has little compatibility with my original pedal box. There are subtle changes, but enough to prevent a safe fixture. A new pedal box is on order, no big deal but it would have been nice to fit on the car. I will show the difference when the new pedal box arrives. The pedal box comes as a complete assembly with pedal and new bronze bushings.
New OEM AP Lockheed brake proportioning valve to prevent rear lock up.
New steering column as the other had worn splines, the benefit to this is fitting a late 48 spline steering wheel, which is dramatically more aesthetically pleasing than the four spoke original.
A new steering lock also, remarkably cheap at only £55 which is amazing for a genuine part.
There is a fair reason for the price, its country of manufacture. I'm not sure why Land Rover can't find a UK manufacturer for an ignition lock, but India wouldn't have been my first guess!
Steering column upper mount and seal.
Third time around got the fuel tank mounted, poor quality pressings mixed with courier damage meant it was some time before I could get it plumbed in.
I decided to use stainless capheads for the fuel return pipe, a lot of detritus finds it's way up there. It was the main reason for changing the tank due to comprehensive rust from the return pipe mount.
Another issue I found was the new chassis utilises larger holes in the metal for the fuel and brake line clips from the TDCI model, unfortunately the chassis manufacturer neglected to mention this. I'd ordered the clips as per the chassis number of the vehicle and subsequently they did not fit. I eventually got there in the end, but as its always the case, small clips and fittings are quite expensive.
A few obligatory shots of nice shiny bits.
The OEM timing belt kit and cover are new. New oil cooler pipes have been fitted. All OEM from memory.
I was pleasantly surprised that you can still buy new brake pipes from the main dealer, even for a twenty year old car. They're only about £10 or so each, some were a bit more. I do have a pipe bender, but no matter how hard I try I could never replicate that of a factory pipe, and I've never been a big fan of copper pipe, it goes brittle and steel pipe isn't the easiest. They're all pre bent and fit perfectly! These will be well protected to prevent any premature corrosion.
jahbrown said:
I humbly apologise I hope I don't need a rebuild when I'm this age, even at 25 I'm making creaking noises and groans! Oh the joys of spannering.
It's nice to know at least some part of it will be vintage.... I've tried to save as much as possible but most of it's probably been melted down.
It is a little worrying that a 26 year old car is in need of a full resto! I knew defenders were bad, but not THAT bad?! Has it been living by the sea or something? I hope I don't need a rebuild when I'm this age, even at 25 I'm making creaking noises and groans! Oh the joys of spannering. It's nice to know at least some part of it will be vintage.... I've tried to save as much as possible but most of it's probably been melted down.
EDIT: Did you perhaps make a typo? Built in 1979, not 89? In which case I'm not so fussed about your 40 year old rivets
The build looks like it's coming along nicely anyway, great attention to detail!
Edited by samj2014 on Thursday 11th August 10:55
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