Door solenoid failing
Discussion
N/S door opening mechanism.
The plastic section with the rubber gator, (solenoid ) it's got a little self tapper that seems to hold it to the white frame work.
Do I have to remove the 3 Allen bolts that secure the lock to the body and turn the white frame outwards to get a driver on said screw to remove or am I missing a hidden retaining bolt that's behind it?
Every now and then my solenoid stops working, checked wiring and connection, if I hold the open button down there's an electrical complaining going on within the unit then it stops doing anything, repeated manual pulling in and out of the plunger does get it going but not anymore.
Thanks for any tips
You can see the self tapper to the right and opposite the left self tapper that retains the spring.
And also to the right is the connector and wiring for the solenoid.
Edited by ClassiChimi on Wednesday 10th August 12:29
Take the whole panel off unless you want to play with screwdriver bits glued into spanners etc and lots of swearing.
The panel and lock mechanism are not adjustable so should bolt straight back into the right place.
You will find there is a wad of sealant between lock and the body where the striker enters the lock. You will need to re-seal this when you put it back together.
Steve
The panel and lock mechanism are not adjustable so should bolt straight back into the right place.
You will find there is a wad of sealant between lock and the body where the striker enters the lock. You will need to re-seal this when you put it back together.
Steve
Steve_D said:
Take the whole panel off unless you want to play with screwdriver bits glued into spanners etc and lots of swearing.
The panel and lock mechanism are not adjustable so should bolt straight back into the right place.
You will find there is a wad of sealant between lock and the body where the striker enters the lock. You will need to re-seal this when you put it back together.
Steve
Nice one Steve, mastic, the most important ingredient. The panel and lock mechanism are not adjustable so should bolt straight back into the right place.
You will find there is a wad of sealant between lock and the body where the striker enters the lock. You will need to re-seal this when you put it back together.
Steve
There's no way i'm trying to faff about with that screw, bits glued to spanner hehe: you chaps are very ingenious I must say.
A job for another day, I'm eye ball deep in rust dust as I'm rubbing down riggers to re paint, suprisingly good metal
If you tap the tubing where you know it to be good, doing the same along the riggers you can almost tell if it's rotton by the dink of the hammer, rotton it will sound deadened rather than a dingggg. Hahah!
ClassiChimi said:
....If you tap the tubing where you know it to be good, doing the same along the riggers you can almost tell if it's rotton by the dink of the hammer, rotton it will sound deadened rather than a dingggg. Hahah!
Sadly I have to say you are wasting your time and effort.The part of the outrigger you can get at and rub down is not the bit that is going to rust out first.
If you are rubbing down rust on the bottom of the outrigger then the top is likely rusted out already.
Steve
Steve_D said:
ClassiChimi said:
....If you tap the tubing where you know it to be good, doing the same along the riggers you can almost tell if it's rotton by the dink of the hammer, rotton it will sound deadened rather than a dingggg. Hahah!
Sadly I have to say you are wasting your time and effort.The part of the outrigger you can get at and rub down is not the bit that is going to rust out first.
If you are rubbing down rust on the bottom of the outrigger then the top is likely rusted out already.
Steve
I'll only know by lifting the body a few inches, I was going to check out a few threads re lifting bodies last night but got side tracked,
As the chap who has been hitting them with hammers is also my mot man I'll get a ticket so the cars legal then find a couple of days to look at the riggers properly over winter.
Cheers for the reality check Steve
No doubt you have cleaned out all the road grit trapped between the front tube of the outrigger and the front of the footwell.
With that path clear you can take a long shafted (but thin) screwdriver or steel rod and feed it along the gap between that tube and the front of the footwell until it is touching the side outrigger tube.
Your sharp metallic ring will be very nice to hear but unlikely. More likely the screwdriver will travel further than you wanted it too.
Steve
With that path clear you can take a long shafted (but thin) screwdriver or steel rod and feed it along the gap between that tube and the front of the footwell until it is touching the side outrigger tube.
Your sharp metallic ring will be very nice to hear but unlikely. More likely the screwdriver will travel further than you wanted it too.
Steve
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff