Mondeo 2.5t titanium x safe buy with high miles
Discussion
I thought you were going to say 220k or something.
The usual things to check really and budget for some spending on it, bushes maybe a few service items, I'd guess a clutch at some point depending on how it's been treated but it's one of those that until you drive it and look through any service receipts you're not going to get a complete picture
The usual things to check really and budget for some spending on it, bushes maybe a few service items, I'd guess a clutch at some point depending on how it's been treated but it's one of those that until you drive it and look through any service receipts you're not going to get a complete picture
That's an average mileage car for the year.
I know a lot of people on PH think a car at 100k is basically brand new, just run in, loads of life left etc. and if you only consider the engine they are absolutely correct. What you will need to consider is that pretty much every suspension component will be way past it's best if they are original, anyone who claims a car with that mileage on the original suspension "drives like new" has clearly forgotten how new cars feel. Plan to spend £600 - £800 over the next year or so replacing dampers, bushes, balljoints, links etc and you can restore in to full health.
You might also need to bear a clutch in mind, although they can do twice this with a sensible driver and motorway usage. That's just pot luck really, if it doesn't slip on the test drive then there isn't much you can do but hope.
You've got a far better chance of trouble free high mileage motoring with that Volvo engine than with one of the s
tty Ford/PSA diesel engines most of them are cursed with.
I know a lot of people on PH think a car at 100k is basically brand new, just run in, loads of life left etc. and if you only consider the engine they are absolutely correct. What you will need to consider is that pretty much every suspension component will be way past it's best if they are original, anyone who claims a car with that mileage on the original suspension "drives like new" has clearly forgotten how new cars feel. Plan to spend £600 - £800 over the next year or so replacing dampers, bushes, balljoints, links etc and you can restore in to full health.
You might also need to bear a clutch in mind, although they can do twice this with a sensible driver and motorway usage. That's just pot luck really, if it doesn't slip on the test drive then there isn't much you can do but hope.
You've got a far better chance of trouble free high mileage motoring with that Volvo engine than with one of the s
tty Ford/PSA diesel engines most of them are cursed with.dme123 said:
Plan to spend £600 - £800 over the next year or so replacing dampers, bushes, balljoints, links etc and you can restore in to full health.
Surely this is overkill for a Mondeo. It's not like a sports car where you want the drive to be part of the ownership experience. A Mondeo, as lovely as the Titanium X is, is just a lump of metal for getting from A-B. I suppose it depends on a whole host of factors, but I'd laugh myself silly if I knew a friend had blown a wedge on the job you have described.
ferrariF50lover said:
Surely this is overkill for a Mondeo. It's not like a sports car where you want the drive to be part of the ownership experience. A Mondeo, as lovely as the Titanium X is, is just a lump of metal for getting from A-B.
I suppose it depends on a whole host of factors, but I'd laugh myself silly if I knew a friend had blown a wedge on the job you have described.
£800 odd once ever 100k is hardly going to break the bank. Even on the most mundane car the difference a new set of dampers will make at 90-100k is dramatic, they just degrade gradually so most people don't realise quite how bad they've become.I suppose it depends on a whole host of factors, but I'd laugh myself silly if I knew a friend had blown a wedge on the job you have described.
The parts are usually only £200 and it might cost you £150 ish in labor for all four. Bushes are much the same, even if they aren't shredded and knocking it'll make the thing much more pleasant to drive for the sake of a couple of hundred quid. It's £800 at the outside, if you got it all done at once you might find it's only £500 and the car will drive so much better it's money well spent. If you amortize that cost over the next 100k then it's completely lost in the other running costs of the car.
Or, by all means, have it drive like a knackered donkey and save the money like most "motorists". Just because you're not buying/leasing something new it doesn't mean you have to resign yourself to driving a knocking, wallowing pig that feels nervous on sweeping bends at 20mph below what it could do if you looked after it properly.
Edited by dme123 on Wednesday 10th August 22:39
As a sort of reference, I have a Volvo V50 2.4 petrol which has just done 150k on a 54 plate Automatic. Same engine as Mondeo running on Ford bits n bobs. The only issue I have with it is the engine light comes on every 600 miles for about an hour then goes off. Some code that means nothing and the car seems fine so I don't worry too much. On the suspension front, I changed the front wishbones at 140k advisory on the last MoT, sailed through this year can't say the drive was much different on new wishbones maybe 10% smoother. Other than that car rives like new
TomoUK said:
As a sort of reference, I have a Volvo V50 2.4 petrol which has just done 150k on a 54 plate Automatic. Same engine as Mondeo running on Ford bits n bobs. The only issue I have with it is the engine light comes on every 600 miles for about an hour then goes off. Some code that means nothing and the car seems fine so I don't worry too much. On the suspension front, I changed the front wishbones at 140k advisory on the last MoT, sailed through this year can't say the drive was much different on new wishbones maybe 10% smoother. Other than that car rives like new
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