Cleaning up outriggers.
Discussion
Ever since I've owned my car and scraped through the gunk that hid the outriggers,, I've waited for the day when they fail an MOT and I'd do something about them,
Mot due,,,,,,
So I took the car to a friend who welds things,,, he got his hammers out and listened,, there solid he says,,,
Not quite believing him I've decided to at least shake off all the old crud with grinders and drill held discs,
They ain't perfect but they are 16 and 1/2 years old,
So hear's a few pics of the dreaded,
Scraped and flushed out stones and grit,
Applied two coats of Kurust,, which goes very black as it dries,
Bit of masking tape, and I'm about to re paint them with basic Hammerite then some (Stonechip ) aerosol !
Much to my pleasant surprise I might get a good few years out of these yet.
A good day indeed
It's often a daunting prospect when starting work on a Tvr, but a few hours in and your hairs greasy and grit in your eyes, its a form of meditation, bliss.
Ok I can't get all around the tubing but by applying tonnes of paint up around the tops and using a few utensils to spread the stuff, it's surprising how well you can cover them
Mot due,,,,,,
So I took the car to a friend who welds things,,, he got his hammers out and listened,, there solid he says,,,
Not quite believing him I've decided to at least shake off all the old crud with grinders and drill held discs,
They ain't perfect but they are 16 and 1/2 years old,
So hear's a few pics of the dreaded,
Scraped and flushed out stones and grit,
Applied two coats of Kurust,, which goes very black as it dries,
Bit of masking tape, and I'm about to re paint them with basic Hammerite then some (Stonechip ) aerosol !
Much to my pleasant surprise I might get a good few years out of these yet.
A good day indeed
It's often a daunting prospect when starting work on a Tvr, but a few hours in and your hairs greasy and grit in your eyes, its a form of meditation, bliss.
Ok I can't get all around the tubing but by applying tonnes of paint up around the tops and using a few utensils to spread the stuff, it's surprising how well you can cover them
Edited by ClassiChimi on Wednesday 10th August 18:18
Edited by ClassiChimi on Wednesday 10th August 18:31
Thanks Anthony,
And here's the first of many light coats to build it up, takes 20 mins a go then just waiting for it to go off!
I'll be removing my rear wishbones before long so I'm only doing the riggers for now.
I've observed that if I knew for sure my outrigger tops were solid ( need to do a 4 inch lift )
Then I'd use a high class mastic to fill the gap above and around the tubing, something water proof, high bond and flexable,
Tool it off, sealed.
The body area needs more thinking about but basically enclose the lot,
If water can't get in, it will last longer.
You'll still see the bottom half of your tubing so any stone chips etc can be attended too no problem.
If you ever want to lift the body, sharpe blade through the mastic, it'll lift off straight away,
Hmm, my old window fixings skills could be used here!
Rubber membrane can be cut to shape and applied with mastic, seals buildings for years.
If I had a chassis re build I'd do this without question, if water can not penetrate because the area is enclosed and you have nicely coated chassis rails they should stay unaffected for a long old time.
I could become an expert and offer the Tvr total chassis protection service,
What happened this space.
I've seen a few ideas to protect the outriggers where the front wheel sits, good ideas but not water tight,,,
You've got to stop the water running over the tops of the tubes,,
And the body mught sit still better, could it introduce vibration though,,,,,
Outriggers, don't you just love em.
And here's the first of many light coats to build it up, takes 20 mins a go then just waiting for it to go off!
I'll be removing my rear wishbones before long so I'm only doing the riggers for now.
I've observed that if I knew for sure my outrigger tops were solid ( need to do a 4 inch lift )
Then I'd use a high class mastic to fill the gap above and around the tubing, something water proof, high bond and flexable,
Tool it off, sealed.
The body area needs more thinking about but basically enclose the lot,
If water can't get in, it will last longer.
You'll still see the bottom half of your tubing so any stone chips etc can be attended too no problem.
If you ever want to lift the body, sharpe blade through the mastic, it'll lift off straight away,
Hmm, my old window fixings skills could be used here!
Rubber membrane can be cut to shape and applied with mastic, seals buildings for years.
If I had a chassis re build I'd do this without question, if water can not penetrate because the area is enclosed and you have nicely coated chassis rails they should stay unaffected for a long old time.
I could become an expert and offer the Tvr total chassis protection service,
What happened this space.
I've seen a few ideas to protect the outriggers where the front wheel sits, good ideas but not water tight,,,
You've got to stop the water running over the tops of the tubes,,
And the body mught sit still better, could it introduce vibration though,,,,,
Outriggers, don't you just love em.
Edited by ClassiChimi on Wednesday 10th August 19:08
Alun on many occasions I have found you to be a little maybe eccentric!! But on this occasion I have to say your sealing thoughts are not a bad idea. Personally where you are at the mo I would be using my personal favourite rustoleum brilliant stuff chip resistant and if it's good enough for oil rigs it will survive under our cars. I've used it in the past and its the dogs. Only downside is slow to dry. Your thoughts of sealing to the body is good,provided the tubes as well protects tend first. By sealing them with a flexible rubber mastic aka expansion joint type mastic so nothing can get behind then the corrosion issue should be sorted I don't think you would have an issue with transferred vibration etc
Rich
Rich
sheel said:
Alun on many occasions I have found you to be a little maybe eccentric!! But on this occasion I have to say your sealing thoughts are not a bad idea. Personally where you are at the mo I would be using my personal favourite rustoleum brilliant stuff chip resistant and if it's good enough for oil rigs it will survive under our cars. I've used it in the past and its the dogs. Only downside is slow to dry. Your thoughts of sealing to the body is good,provided the tubes as well protects tend first. By sealing them with a flexible rubber mastic aka expansion joint type mastic so nothing can get behind then the corrosion issue should be sorted I don't think you would have an issue with transferred vibration etc
Rich
Eccentric,, really, hahaha Rich
You wanna see my driving
Your right about the paint Rich, a couple of years ago I purchased two big cans of Trade Stonechip, can't remember what is is off hand,
This is just a bodge up until I at least lift the body to view properly,
So my hope is the Hammerite grips the tubing and the stone chip then protects the paint as Hammerite will just get knocked off,, saying that the front diagonal tubing by the wheel has not been breached my stone chips yet.
I was thinking about your chassis last night, very same thoughts as you to be honest re the paint.
Paulprior said:
Hi sheel
I see there are a variety of Rustoleum products, which do you recommend?, i need to do something with mine sometime, maybe lift the body a few inches over winter
Paul
Hi. Paul,the aresol version is called hard hat slightly strange material,dries quite quickly but if you want to put multiple. Coats on they have to be applies within a certain amount of time otherwise the finish will pickle,as for the brushing paint I was not aware of different versions,the one I have always used is very flexible,bit slow to dry but very resistant to chipping,years ago I used it on a seven tubular chassis,the stonechips just bruised it and did not cause any damage,my chassis is touched up on wishbones etc and it's tougher than the powder coatI see there are a variety of Rustoleum products, which do you recommend?, i need to do something with mine sometime, maybe lift the body a few inches over winter
Paul
Rich
I used this aerosol as it can be sprayed with the tin upside down which is handy. Comes in several finishes too.
http://www.rustoleumaerosols.co.uk/index.php?cPath...
http://www.rustoleumaerosols.co.uk/index.php?cPath...
Ok so this is a cover up job, outriggers that we can get too are solid if not weakened somewhat by the years, I've been thinking forget touching them up as they are going to need replacing soon enough but that was 4 years ago,
That powder coat has all but disappeared over the years and much surface rust formed, thinking id rather cover them than let the elements destroy them entirely I'd try to at least rub them down and treat the tubes.
I've used Tetrosil as a final coating, ( Stone chip ) nightmare to get the stuff up and over the tops of the tubes but with an extended nozzle I pretty much covered them, much excess paint runs around and off but I'm not to bothered about that,
It's not a clever solution and something I'd only suggest doing if you think your riggers might have a few years in them,
It's better to lift body and simply replace or re furb properly but this at least saves the lower sections from yet more oxidisation.
Bit nasty but does a job for now.
That powder coat has all but disappeared over the years and much surface rust formed, thinking id rather cover them than let the elements destroy them entirely I'd try to at least rub them down and treat the tubes.
I've used Tetrosil as a final coating, ( Stone chip ) nightmare to get the stuff up and over the tops of the tubes but with an extended nozzle I pretty much covered them, much excess paint runs around and off but I'm not to bothered about that,
It's not a clever solution and something I'd only suggest doing if you think your riggers might have a few years in them,
It's better to lift body and simply replace or re furb properly but this at least saves the lower sections from yet more oxidisation.
Bit nasty but does a job for now.
Hi Alun...that was pretty much my strategy with the chassis....bit of a rub down and some paint to at least halt the deteriation....This year was the right time to bite the bullet and lift the body....started Chrismas holidays and although just doing a few hrs at night was ready for May......Nice feeling to have had the chassis and running gear to the bare bones, you also get a good understanding of how it all functions. Good opportunity to do all those "must do whilst I have it stripped down" jobs.
Chassis was in really good nick...surprising as its a late Scottish car similar year to yours and was pretty devoid of powder coat. For me the other benefit of overhauling the chassis was to get rid off the years of wax oil that appeared to have been sprayed over rust and made any mechanical maintenance job a messy and unpleasant experience.
I used the lift the car up then lower the chassis technique.....just needed to remove the wheels to roll it out.
Sure your Tiv's time will come!!
Chassis was in really good nick...surprising as its a late Scottish car similar year to yours and was pretty devoid of powder coat. For me the other benefit of overhauling the chassis was to get rid off the years of wax oil that appeared to have been sprayed over rust and made any mechanical maintenance job a messy and unpleasant experience.
I used the lift the car up then lower the chassis technique.....just needed to remove the wheels to roll it out.
Sure your Tiv's time will come!!
Hi Pete, I've got a pair of ARB strengthening brackets to go on the lower wishbones, when I get round to removing them I'll have a good old tidy up and a decent look at the rear chassis section then, bit of rust on the lower rails,, mostly from where jacks have been etc, I'll probably do what I've done around the engine bay and see if I can get a few more years out of it before replacing/ repairing my chassis properly.
Having spent a fortune on the car I'd like to get more fun out of it before I finally bring the car upto a high standard but that will take some planning and saving of pennies before I commit.
Your car was looking spotless at Meriden the other week mate.
Having spent a fortune on the car I'd like to get more fun out of it before I finally bring the car upto a high standard but that will take some planning and saving of pennies before I commit.
Your car was looking spotless at Meriden the other week mate.
sheel said:
Al,Pete has spent all this time on the chassis he won't expose himself(sorry under bonnet) areas,give him some lessons on your bulls
t polishing details so he can show his engine bay off!!!
Rich
t polishing details so he can show his engine bay off!!!Rich
It don't take long does it Rich
I've been meaning to bell Pete and use his mechanical oil gauge Rich, one thing and another!
Favour for a favour Pete, I'll ruin your engine bay if you show me how to lift the body without breaking it.
Good thinking Rich, hope your well mate.
Al.
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