Chimaera - brakes go hard-lost my boost
Discussion
Hi.
I just purchased. Used chimera here is Canada. Drive home was fine until stop and go traffic in high heat. Brake warning light goes on and pedal is rock hard.
Brake fluid level is fine. How is the warning light triggered?
Previous owner did a LHD conversion and put an access panel in the wheel well to get access to the brake booster. He also put a separate brake fluid reservoir in the wing with a hose down to the master cylinder.
He said he had tested the booster for pressure last year. It seems weird that the booster would loose power mid drive, but it was a super hot day.
Any thoughts? Could brake fluid boil cause the problem of rock hard brakes if the brake lines run too close to the headers in his reroute?
Is this DIY or do I need to tow to a mechanic? Do I need a TVR specialist (they are far away). Or can a good British classic car mechanic figure it out?
I just purchased. Used chimera here is Canada. Drive home was fine until stop and go traffic in high heat. Brake warning light goes on and pedal is rock hard.
Brake fluid level is fine. How is the warning light triggered?
Previous owner did a LHD conversion and put an access panel in the wheel well to get access to the brake booster. He also put a separate brake fluid reservoir in the wing with a hose down to the master cylinder.
He said he had tested the booster for pressure last year. It seems weird that the booster would loose power mid drive, but it was a super hot day.
Any thoughts? Could brake fluid boil cause the problem of rock hard brakes if the brake lines run too close to the headers in his reroute?
Is this DIY or do I need to tow to a mechanic? Do I need a TVR specialist (they are far away). Or can a good British classic car mechanic figure it out?
It's a totally standard servo assisted brake system. Any good classic car mechanic should know immediately what is wrong.
Try it again locally before taking it to a garage.
As Classichimi says, boiling the brake fluid results in a long pedal, leading to no pedal, but no way would a drive home in hot weather cause the fluid to boil. Mine boiled with brand new sintered race pads, old fluid, and race track use - lost the pedal at 120mph.
Try it again locally before taking it to a garage.
As Classichimi says, boiling the brake fluid results in a long pedal, leading to no pedal, but no way would a drive home in hot weather cause the fluid to boil. Mine boiled with brand new sintered race pads, old fluid, and race track use - lost the pedal at 120mph.
This animation with voice-over explains how the system works.
The valves are inside the power booster and not in the vacuum hose.
Have you checked the vacuum hoses condition yet?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0sj5d48mcss
The valves are inside the power booster and not in the vacuum hose.
Have you checked the vacuum hoses condition yet?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0sj5d48mcss
twobone said:
...Is it true that Brake boosters are very hard to find or is there a common replacement part?
My shop is not a TVR expert.
You could get one from the UK but remember you are asking for a Brake Servo not a booster.My shop is not a TVR expert.
http://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-j0...
Another test for you.
Sit in the car and pump the brakes several times with the engine off.
Press on the pedal and hold that pressure whilst you start the engine. If the servo is working the pedal will go down a little further.
Steve
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