Chiltern AM - Safe for car wash?
Discussion
Hi,
Whilst I believe that Chiltern provide an excellent service under the bonnet and apparently for paint - I no idea what they are like for washing cars.
I'm about to get a Paint Correction done and shortly after the car will be going for a service to Chiltern.
Should I ask them not to wash it?
Or do they know how to wash cars in a non-swirlie producing, or expensive wax stripping, method?
Thanks,
R
Whilst I believe that Chiltern provide an excellent service under the bonnet and apparently for paint - I no idea what they are like for washing cars.
I'm about to get a Paint Correction done and shortly after the car will be going for a service to Chiltern.
Should I ask them not to wash it?
Or do they know how to wash cars in a non-swirlie producing, or expensive wax stripping, method?
Thanks,
R
divetheworld said:
I tell them not to wash as I book it in and leave a printed A4 note on the seat stating the same. One slip up and all that very expensive work can be undone.
Plus one. You should only let them wash your car if you are happy with them using an old leather that has been in contact with grit and a bucket that is full of sludge. Then its no problem
divetheworld said:
I tell them not to wash as I book it in and leave a printed A4 note on the seat stating the same. One slip up and all that very expensive work can be undone.
Exact same here. It will never be more than a quick schlapp with harsh products. In fact I use a superb shampoo that costs more than the one my missus uses - because she's worth it 
Big NO from me then.Ken Figenus said:
divetheworld said:
I tell them not to wash as I book it in and leave a printed A4 note on the seat stating the same. One slip up and all that very expensive work can be undone.
Exact same here. It will never be more than a quick schlapp with harsh products. In fact I use a superb shampoo that costs more than the one my missus uses - because she's worth it Big NO from me then.I have a complete 1 micron 2 stage filter on a De-ionised water plant feeding the pressure washer and bucket fill.
Then dry with a sidekick blower. No towels at all.
OCD......
graham 500 said:
Just for my two pennies worth, I have had my car detailed and always used the two bucket method. However the past two services that Chiltern have carried out, they have washed it and I have never seen my car so clean, bar detailing, so would highly recommend them.
This is really good to know.So no swirls?
divetheworld said:
I use Valet-Pro pH neutral snow foam, two bucket method with lambs wool mitts.
I have a complete 1 micron 2 stage filter on a De-ionised water plant feeding the pressure washer and bucket fill.
Then dry with a sidekick blower. No towels at all.
OCD......
Filtered water - now there is my next step! No minerals or solids in the water - 'smooth, soft' water LOL? May port a pipe from the American fridge to the pressure washer to give it a try I have a complete 1 micron 2 stage filter on a De-ionised water plant feeding the pressure washer and bucket fill.
Then dry with a sidekick blower. No towels at all.
OCD......
I know it all sounds a bit OTT and OCD but in reality its worth it to preserve a smooth shiny and enduring glossy paint finish. It has made me incredulous at the swirls and scratches I immediately pick up on other fine machinery - they are often washed and cared for just as if they were a 10 year old Fiat Panda. The Aston paint is also far more susceptible to scratches than coarser paint finishes (like the one on my orange peely but much more resilient Beemer).
Ken Figenus said:
Filtered water - now there is my next step! No minerals or solids in the water - 'smooth, soft' water LOL? May port a pipe from the American fridge to the pressure washer to give it a try
I know it all sounds a bit OTT and OCD but in reality its worth it to preserve a smooth shiny and enduring glossy paint finish. It has made me incredulous at the swirls and scratches I immediately pick up on other fine machinery - they are often washed and cared for just as if they were a 10 year old Fiat Panda. The Aston paint is also far more susceptible to scratches than coarser paint finishes (like the one on my orange peely but much more resilient Beemer).
No more water spots on your bodywork when you're done washing. I know it all sounds a bit OTT and OCD but in reality its worth it to preserve a smooth shiny and enduring glossy paint finish. It has made me incredulous at the swirls and scratches I immediately pick up on other fine machinery - they are often washed and cared for just as if they were a 10 year old Fiat Panda. The Aston paint is also far more susceptible to scratches than coarser paint finishes (like the one on my orange peely but much more resilient Beemer).
One of these with 1 micron filters; http://www.vyair.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduc...
Followed by one of these (filled with DI resin of course): http://www.vyair.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduc...
And then one of these again: http://www.vyair.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduc...
Once you're done washing, no more towels.
No towels = no swirls https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAUL37g54kE
Ken Figenus said:
That's all pretty affordable but what is the 'resin' bit?
I already have the 4hp blower - cant get near the b car with it mind as it pushes me back in the garage when I switch it on
Tulsion MB-115 resinI already have the 4hp blower - cant get near the b car with it mind as it pushes me back in the garage when I switch it on
http://www.daqua.co.uk/resins.htm
Brent - just watched the Junkman 'how to wash' video someone linked to in this section. He didn't rinse the foam off - just went over the top of it with his mitt and shampoo. I always power rinse my foam off to get the last bits of dirt off - the stuff embedded in the foam itself. Any thoughts (cos I thought I had it bad) as seems to make sense to me to rinse the foam off in this art meets science crusade
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