the 10 speed ultegra cassette - side to side 'play'
Discussion
Hi,
SO my shifting seems to be all over the place. Ive fitted a rear mech hanger, and have been faffing with L alignment and barrel adjuster, indexing is fine, until i start to climb in the lowest gear. First of all I seem to be suffering from spokes hitting the rear mech (i'm a 17 stone porker) so i'm thinking I need my new shimano wheel with 24 spokes re tightening/ dishing over a bit as I think ive adjusted the L screw so the jockey closest to the cassette is in alignment, so presumably my lard is causing the wheel to flex into the mech?
I had noticed when fitting the cassette to the new wheel that there was a spacer at the back (nearest hub) before the cassette is fitted, should this be there? Does this spacer make up for the fact its not an 11 speed cassette?
Cheers
SO my shifting seems to be all over the place. Ive fitted a rear mech hanger, and have been faffing with L alignment and barrel adjuster, indexing is fine, until i start to climb in the lowest gear. First of all I seem to be suffering from spokes hitting the rear mech (i'm a 17 stone porker) so i'm thinking I need my new shimano wheel with 24 spokes re tightening/ dishing over a bit as I think ive adjusted the L screw so the jockey closest to the cassette is in alignment, so presumably my lard is causing the wheel to flex into the mech?
I had noticed when fitting the cassette to the new wheel that there was a spacer at the back (nearest hub) before the cassette is fitted, should this be there? Does this spacer make up for the fact its not an 11 speed cassette?
Cheers
- There shouldn't be any wobble in the casette, if there is, you need a spacer, and it should be on the freehub between the casette and the wheel.
- The wheel will not be flexing as much as you think it is, it definitely won't need dishing.
- Sounds like you've messed up the adjustment of your rear mech - either learn how to set the limits properly, or take it to someone who knows what they're doing would be my recommendation, before you need a new mech and rear wheel
- The wheel will not be flexing as much as you think it is, it definitely won't need dishing.
- Sounds like you've messed up the adjustment of your rear mech - either learn how to set the limits properly, or take it to someone who knows what they're doing would be my recommendation, before you need a new mech and rear wheel
Do your gears jump like crazy? I would have thought that any play in the rear cassette would cause this to happen...
I've never had to use a spacer on any of my previous bikes (MTB 10 speed) but my brother does, maybe it is just the different manufacturers, if it had a spacer there in the first place I would suspect it needs one there with the replacement.
If you were handy with Gear Adjustment in the past, take a look on Youtube for a bit of a refreshment, there are some good indexing videos to learn from.
I've never had to use a spacer on any of my previous bikes (MTB 10 speed) but my brother does, maybe it is just the different manufacturers, if it had a spacer there in the first place I would suspect it needs one there with the replacement.
If you were handy with Gear Adjustment in the past, take a look on Youtube for a bit of a refreshment, there are some good indexing videos to learn from.
When you fitted the new mech hanger did you go through an alignment procedure thus...
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-dera...
If the mech isn't hanging plumb vertical then you're onto a none starter. I'd gladly pop over with the alignment tool as I don't use it enough but I dont live near you. It's quick process to fix though.
Then when you've got the cassette shimmed and torqued down you'll be in a much better place to start dialling in the L and H screws. I tend to do this without a cable disconnected so you know it's only the screws influencing the set points. Once thats done you should be able to re attach the cable, pull it taught and with a quick twiddle of the barrel nut it'll be sweet. Make sure your cables are good though. They dont last more than 18 months really, especially if you've got 105 or above with the cables under the bar tape...
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-dera...
If the mech isn't hanging plumb vertical then you're onto a none starter. I'd gladly pop over with the alignment tool as I don't use it enough but I dont live near you. It's quick process to fix though.
Then when you've got the cassette shimmed and torqued down you'll be in a much better place to start dialling in the L and H screws. I tend to do this without a cable disconnected so you know it's only the screws influencing the set points. Once thats done you should be able to re attach the cable, pull it taught and with a quick twiddle of the barrel nut it'll be sweet. Make sure your cables are good though. They dont last more than 18 months really, especially if you've got 105 or above with the cables under the bar tape...
Bobley said:
When you fitted the new mech hanger did you go through an alignment procedure thus...
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-dera...
If the mech isn't hanging plumb vertical then you're onto a none starter. I'd gladly pop over with the alignment tool as I don't use it enough but I dont live near you. It's quick process to fix though.
Then when you've got the cassette shimmed and torqued down you'll be in a much better place to start dialling in the L and H screws. I tend to do this without a cable disconnected so you know it's only the screws influencing the set points. Once thats done you should be able to re attach the cable, pull it taught and with a quick twiddle of the barrel nut it'll be sweet. Make sure your cables are good though. They dont last more than 18 months really, especially if you've got 105 or above with the cables under the bar tape...
Cheers for this. I never knew park had such a site, great tools and great instructions it'd seem...http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-dera...
If the mech isn't hanging plumb vertical then you're onto a none starter. I'd gladly pop over with the alignment tool as I don't use it enough but I dont live near you. It's quick process to fix though.
Then when you've got the cassette shimmed and torqued down you'll be in a much better place to start dialling in the L and H screws. I tend to do this without a cable disconnected so you know it's only the screws influencing the set points. Once thats done you should be able to re attach the cable, pull it taught and with a quick twiddle of the barrel nut it'll be sweet. Make sure your cables are good though. They dont last more than 18 months really, especially if you've got 105 or above with the cables under the bar tape...
I'd bet on a spacer issue. There are two spacers you might need:
1) On an 11 speed hub you will need a 10 speed spacer.
2) The 10 speed ultegra cassettes come with a thin stainless spacer which makes up for the alloy spider being slightly (more) recessed than one without an alloy spider. Always use that.
The cassette should not have any play side to side.
1) On an 11 speed hub you will need a 10 speed spacer.
2) The 10 speed ultegra cassettes come with a thin stainless spacer which makes up for the alloy spider being slightly (more) recessed than one without an alloy spider. Always use that.
The cassette should not have any play side to side.
As a big lad too, I'll echo what has been said. You don't need 32 or 36 spokes on the rear for a big chap, but it helps. I think the Flo "Clydesdale" wheels I have are 28 and have been fine for me at 100kgs. I was grateful for the 36 spoke wheels I had previously when I was nearer 125kgs though.
Start with the Mech Hanger, the basic tool I have is this, and it's very useful:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-derailleur-hanger...
Then make sure you've got the spacer on. Most rears are now 10/11 speed with a small spacer for the 10 speed. I've used this on a couple of different hubs and never had it rattle or have any play.
Then spend a good bit of time setting the derailleur up properly.
Alternatively, take it to a bike shop, and have it done properly. Even though I've done it all a few times, it always feels better when done by someone who does it day in, day out.
Start with the Mech Hanger, the basic tool I have is this, and it's very useful:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-derailleur-hanger...
Then make sure you've got the spacer on. Most rears are now 10/11 speed with a small spacer for the 10 speed. I've used this on a couple of different hubs and never had it rattle or have any play.
Then spend a good bit of time setting the derailleur up properly.
Alternatively, take it to a bike shop, and have it done properly. Even though I've done it all a few times, it always feels better when done by someone who does it day in, day out.
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff