1992 griff lt77 gearbox problem
Discussion
Hi chaps, problem with gear selection getting worse, what are your thoughts?
Trying to select reverse, gears crunching as gearbox inards still turning with clutch depressed. Put it in second or third and could then get reverse with a bit of a clunk. But getting worse and now cannot get reverse at all without stopping engine. Also, yesterday came to a junction and coasted to a halt in neutral, went to select first, wouldn't go in, then tried other gears no go , what's going on, is it
A. Clutch
B. Gearbox
C. Remote selector mech prob?
So far checked clutch fluid, was half way down reservoir so topped it up, no improvement. Clutch engages and disengages fine all other gears, no slip, drives fine.??
What's my next check? Is the remote linkage a problem area?
Any advice appreciated....
Thanks, Phil.
Trying to select reverse, gears crunching as gearbox inards still turning with clutch depressed. Put it in second or third and could then get reverse with a bit of a clunk. But getting worse and now cannot get reverse at all without stopping engine. Also, yesterday came to a junction and coasted to a halt in neutral, went to select first, wouldn't go in, then tried other gears no go , what's going on, is it
A. Clutch
B. Gearbox
C. Remote selector mech prob?
So far checked clutch fluid, was half way down reservoir so topped it up, no improvement. Clutch engages and disengages fine all other gears, no slip, drives fine.??
What's my next check? Is the remote linkage a problem area?
Any advice appreciated....
Thanks, Phil.
Hi Phil, it sounds very much like clutch to me! With the clutch working properly and completely disengaging the gearbox should not be active (unless you are driving along of course). As there is synchromesh on forward gears they would not normally crunch if clutch not fully disengaged, but could give sign of 'baulking', i.e. harder to push in or 'rubbery'! As the clutch fluid was low suspect the slave cylinder. Check for fluid leakage at the slave end. Have you tried to pump the clutch pedal several times before trying to engage reverse? Reverse gear always shows up a declining clutch first! You might try bleeding the system also, just in case there is air in it. Hope thats been helpful. All the best, Pete
The remote linkage is held in place by four bolts and eight rubber bushes. PU replacements are available for about eighteen squids. I have them to change on Wendy tomorrow.
There is a hard plastic ball at the bottom of the gear lever. These can break as well.
Could also be the rubber gaiter below the leather that has deteriorated and stopping the lever moving fully / properly.
Could also be some foreign object wedged in the area stopping fully movement.
Alternatively, the gearbox could be borked.
There is a hard plastic ball at the bottom of the gear lever. These can break as well.
Could also be the rubber gaiter below the leather that has deteriorated and stopping the lever moving fully / properly.
Could also be some foreign object wedged in the area stopping fully movement.
Alternatively, the gearbox could be borked.
This is typical of the clutch dragging- I had the problem on my Ginetta, and the fix was as simple as winding the adjustment out on the hydraulic cylinder on the clutch pedal to lift it a bit so it had more travel when fully dis engaged. I dont know if you can do this on the TVR though.
it sounds like classic clutch drag.
review/renew the hydraulic elements before diving in further.
i did mine recently. there doesn't seem to be much slack in the system, it all needs to be working well to completely disengage.
just watch the part numbers, i think TVR modified some masters, as i had 1 with the right part no but wrong size union.
review/renew the hydraulic elements before diving in further.
i did mine recently. there doesn't seem to be much slack in the system, it all needs to be working well to completely disengage.
just watch the part numbers, i think TVR modified some masters, as i had 1 with the right part no but wrong size union.
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