Evans waterless coolant
Discussion
Personally I wouldn't bother as the standard system in good condition is more than up to the job (I have been stuck in Le Mans traffic in 30 degree heat for over an hour with no issues)
Also there is the fact that the system is designed to run at pressure, and if the car ever does overheat and you aren't looking at the gauge you wouldn't know as it won't pop the cap.
Solution to a non existent problem imo
Also there is the fact that the system is designed to run at pressure, and if the car ever does overheat and you aren't looking at the gauge you wouldn't know as it won't pop the cap.
Solution to a non existent problem imo
AceOfHearts said:
Personally I wouldn't bother as the standard system in good condition is more than up to the job (I have been stuck in Le Mans traffic in 30 degree heat for over an hour with no issues)
Also there is the fact that the system is designed to run at pressure, and if the car ever does overheat and you aren't looking at the gauge you wouldn't know as it won't pop the cap.
Solution to a non existent problem imo
Good points Ace. I've had the rad re-cored and have a new water pump to go in when I'm at that stage. So maybe the Evans stuff is a false economy. Maybe a bottle of water wetter as a Christmas pressie to the Chim will be more appropriate Also there is the fact that the system is designed to run at pressure, and if the car ever does overheat and you aren't looking at the gauge you wouldn't know as it won't pop the cap.
Solution to a non existent problem imo
Highly recommend it myself, used it on my 'TVR S' that was overheating (yes i had rad recore which was most likely the cause but had no issues since) tested it out on a hour run on the hottest day of the year few months ago, temperature didn't go over 90degree's even in traffic! Plus you haven't got to top it up once its in its in (Unless you get a leak), water creates steam & pressure when boiling, waterless coolant doesn't & has a higher boiling point
Steve
Steve
Edited by greyhulk on Wednesday 7th September 16:06
The bottom line is this stuff is less efficient than water at getting the heat out (water is hard to beat) so the engine and oil run hotter on average- it simply does not boil like water or form steam pockets like water when its already too hot. Anyone who contemplates running an aluminium RV8 hotter than normal needs to consider the liners are pressed into the block when hot, and its only the metal contraction holds them in place. This is why the engines get trashed so easily if you cook them, and the margins are pretty tight on this, so dont go there.
blitzracing said:
The bottom line is this stuff is less efficient than water at getting the heat out (water is hard to beat)!
phillpot said:
AceOfHearts said:
Solution to a non existent problem imo
Sums it up in a nutshell 
I'm just back from France where we sat in an horrific 37 degree stop-start traffic jam the likes of which you just don't see in the UK, and my Chimaera with good old fashioned coolant refused to go over 93 degrees.
The cooling system on these cars is highly effective as long as everything is working as it should, the only time I've ever seen mine go over 93 degrees was when one of the rad fans stopped working (corroded connector - fixed in 10 minutes flat). Its well known and completely accepted (even by Evans themselves) a water/glycol mix transfers heat more effectively than the Evans product and is massively cheaper too. A quality traditional glycol antifreeze solution will contain all the corrosion inhibitors you need to protect an aluminium engine, all you need to do is replace it every 2-3 years. Replacing the water/glycol mix every few years allows you to low pressure back flush the system which has always been highly recommended best practice since the year dot.
Evans says their stuff is for life but in my experience nothing is truly for life, and nothing beats a proper flush of the system every few years. The car doesn't need a fancy aluminium rad either, while lighter aluminium radiators don't really cool any better than a traditional radiator with the same core depth and can be more prone to splitting.
Assuming your water pump is in good order and both rad fans are working correctly all you need is the correct mix of water and traditional antifreeze in a healthy radiator and a Chimaera will not overheat. What amuses me is people will use the Evans product in their old radiator, if your thinking of spending the kind of money Evans costs to properly purge an fill your cooling system and your rad is six years old or more.. I'd seriously think about spending the money having your radiator reconditioned instead.
No heavily marketed Evans waterless coolant product will ever beat the cooling efficiency gains you'll enjoy from having you radiator reconditioned, back flushing the system and ensuring the complete elimination of any air, its also worth asking your rad reconditioner for a deeper core than standard which will only cost a few quid more.
Proper engineering solutions are always infinitely superior to magic snake oil solutions sold in a bottle
ChimpOnGas said:
^^THIS^^
I'm just back from France where we sat in an horrific 37 degree stop-start traffic jam the likes of which you just don't see in the UK, and my Chimaera with good old fashioned coolant refused to go over 93 degrees.
The cooling system on these cars is highly effective as long as everything is working as it should, the only time I've ever seen mine go over 93 degrees was when one of the rad fans stopped working (corroded connector - fixed in 10 minutes flat). Its well known and completely accepted (even by Evans themselves) a water/glycol mix transfers heat more effectively than the Evans product and is massively cheaper too. A quality traditional glycol antifreeze solution will contain all the corrosion inhibitors you need to protect an aluminium engine, all you need to do is replace it every 2-3 years. Replacing the water/glycol mix every few years allows you to low pressure back flush the system which has always been highly recommended best practice since the year dot.
Evans says their stuff is for life but in my experience nothing is truly for life, and nothing beats a proper flush of the system every few years. The car doesn't need a fancy aluminium rad either, while lighter aluminium radiators don't really cool any better than a traditional radiator with the same core depth and can be more prone to splitting.
Assuming your water pump is in good order and both rad fans are working correctly all you need is the correct mix of water and traditional antifreeze in a healthy radiator and a Chimaera will not overheat. What amuses me is people will use the Evans product in their old radiator, if your thinking of spending the kind of money Evans costs to properly purge an fill your cooling system and your rad is six years old or more.. I'd seriously think about spending the money having your radiator reconditioned instead.
No heavily marketed Evans waterless coolant product will ever beat the cooling efficiency gains you'll enjoy from having you radiator reconditioned, back flushing the system and ensuring the complete elimination of any air, its also worth asking your rad reconditioner for a deeper core than standard which will only cost a few quid more.
Proper engineering solutions are always infinitely superior to magic snake oil solutions sold in a bottle
Did you check your boot for stowaway's as the chims boot is a biggun. I'm just back from France where we sat in an horrific 37 degree stop-start traffic jam the likes of which you just don't see in the UK, and my Chimaera with good old fashioned coolant refused to go over 93 degrees.
The cooling system on these cars is highly effective as long as everything is working as it should, the only time I've ever seen mine go over 93 degrees was when one of the rad fans stopped working (corroded connector - fixed in 10 minutes flat). Its well known and completely accepted (even by Evans themselves) a water/glycol mix transfers heat more effectively than the Evans product and is massively cheaper too. A quality traditional glycol antifreeze solution will contain all the corrosion inhibitors you need to protect an aluminium engine, all you need to do is replace it every 2-3 years. Replacing the water/glycol mix every few years allows you to low pressure back flush the system which has always been highly recommended best practice since the year dot.
Evans says their stuff is for life but in my experience nothing is truly for life, and nothing beats a proper flush of the system every few years. The car doesn't need a fancy aluminium rad either, while lighter aluminium radiators don't really cool any better than a traditional radiator with the same core depth and can be more prone to splitting.
Assuming your water pump is in good order and both rad fans are working correctly all you need is the correct mix of water and traditional antifreeze in a healthy radiator and a Chimaera will not overheat. What amuses me is people will use the Evans product in their old radiator, if your thinking of spending the kind of money Evans costs to properly purge an fill your cooling system and your rad is six years old or more.. I'd seriously think about spending the money having your radiator reconditioned instead.
No heavily marketed Evans waterless coolant product will ever beat the cooling efficiency gains you'll enjoy from having you radiator reconditioned, back flushing the system and ensuring the complete elimination of any air, its also worth asking your rad reconditioner for a deeper core than standard which will only cost a few quid more.
Proper engineering solutions are always infinitely superior to magic snake oil solutions sold in a bottle
caduceus said:
Has anyone used this? If so, was the difference noticeable/worth the outlay?
Also, how much do you need to fill the Chimaera coolant system?
Cheers
Yes had no problems, like all things pays yer money and takes her choice, for me I was pissed off how much corrosion I had in the system , so went this route and seams to work just fine , there will always be people telling why you shouldnt use sometihing but that's it's just their option Also, how much do you need to fill the Chimaera coolant system?
Cheers
steveo3002 said:
one reason i wouldnt use it , if you pop a hose off miles from home you can find a bottle of water or tap anywhere , but will you have a bottle of evans with you
Or put a hole in your rad 
The unplanned coolant leak is something all Evans adopters should think about carefully.
Water is freely available everywhere... and available fee too!
Evans coolant is none of the above!
AceOfHearts said:
blaze_away said:
Bit sarcastic.....however I saw a hose go on a race chimaera in a race shot the stuff all over the engine bay and massive fire.
Was it not you? (Judging by your user name 
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